Sintered Brake Pads Vs Normal Brake Pads?

[LuckyDip23]

Mornin.

can anyone shed some light on the difference between sintered brake pads and "normal" pads?
what would be better for fast rd riding - would probably prefer better stopping power over longevity (within reason of course)t?
lastly can anyone reccomend a decent set of pads for my thundercat?

Thanks in advance

Gareth.

[The Tot]

I'll try and copy out what is written in this month's RIDE magazine since they have something about pads and compounds and such like (issue with used 600's comparison).

Normal brake pads use an organic compound, often ferritic metals are incorporated into the matrix (the cake in which the brake pad material comprises of) whereas sintered pads use treated ceramics which are designed to have a higher coefficient of friction (specially selected blends which are then effectively baked and fused) - they heat up a lot as a result, but means in wet weather can dispell the water better. Notice that sintered pads have heatsinks on the back to dissipate the heat. EBC HH's are common sintered pads or some people recommend Carbon Lorraine SBK.

Sintered pads last pretty long and provide a shaper response which would be good for fast road riding, although people would be put off by the initial bite.

At the moment, i've got Vesrah sintered pads in mine and they bite well.

I'll copy out the exact definitions when i get back.

Having said that, the heat MAY lead to disk warpage so keep an eye on that - that's the major downside of using sintered pads.
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The Tot 2019 Z1000SX - 2007 R1
Never argue with autism

[killa]

If bedded in properly it is pretty hard to warp a set of discs, but it can happen.
The initial bite can be harsh but this depends on your brake lines and setup. I have mine set to be a bit squishy so i don't shock myself when freaking out mid corner.

Sintered do last a fair time depending on your riding.
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Cleverly disguised as a responsible adult.
Bike:- Yamaha TRX850 | Killas Biking History | Killas Gaming History | Killas autmotive history

[stinkwheel]

The main thing you'll notice in real world riding is sintered pads have more initial "bite" when you first apply the brakes and that they are unaffected by water on the disc.

Not all sintered pads are great. I had some EBC "red stuff" ones that were supposedly sintered but were utterly shite, faded in then faded out and barely worked in the wet at all.

I have used EBC HH ones for years and can't fault them. They do wear discs out more quickly though.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[KTM Gordo]

Often the best pads for your bike are (perhaps not unsurprisingly) the OE (original equipment) ones.

There's usually a reason why the manufacturer fits a certain kind of pad - they've done a lot of research on it too.

If you're doing something like racing or a lot of track days then you might want a pad better suited to that, but for day-to-day use, stick to OE.

They're usually not as expensive as you'd think.
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Change is inevitable - except from a vending machine.

KTM 990 Adventure | KTM EXC 250 Racing | Land Rover Freelander SE Td4

[stinkwheel]

[iooi]

Sintered on the front, standard on the rear.


While Mr manufacture will have spent a lot of devolpment costs on many things break pads will be left to the pad manufactures. The issue is just how much the bike manufacture is prepared to pay for the pads.
We all know the OE parts is where they make their profits from, so why use theirs when you can get exactly the same part direct from the pad manufacture for less, and then get a better quality pad.
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Just because my bike was A DIVVY, does not mean i am......