Mito back on the road..with yet another problem(electrical).

[spitfire123]

Hi all,


Got my mito done today,if you where reading my previous thread about the starter motor being a bit 'iffy' well it turned out the piston was very slightly to tight for the bore, squirt of wd and she went 1st time no probs!

Anyway as i say went out for a 35 km ride (below 6k) to run her in (stage 1) and on the way home i noticed the lights on the speedo where very fait....i then realised i had no indicators or rear brake light or lights and to top it my alarm on my bike was going off while i was riding it the battery was that low !at 11pm at night! so was about 1 mile from my house (luckly) with no traffic on the roads and managed to get home saftly.


Now....the last time this happend it was a blown fuse and the alternator wasn't charging the battery to run lights, i looked at the top of the fuse and it was slightly 'singed' at the top, like a rippled effect.

I went back to the workshop (end of my garden) with the bike and took off the seat and the multi meter mesures 10-11v where 5 mins erleyer the indicators wouldent even flash. so it gained 10v in 5 mins???

Anyway i stuck the battery on charge for toninght and changed the fuse ready for the comute tommrow....just hope its okay.

I dident have time to mesure what the altenator was putting out as it was way to late.

Do you all think its defanatly the alt fuse slightly gone?

the battery is 3 days old...and was fully charged before the ride.

cheers all
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You won't be able to eat my dust......As it'll settle before you get there.

[spitfire123]

just to add....the bike dosen't turn over...battery to low...solonoid just clicking.

cheers
____________________
You won't be able to eat my dust......As it'll settle before you get there.

[spitfire123]

right everyone an update...

took it to collage today and got the multi meter on it....battery at 13v(nor running) and running at 6k....12.5v

i then changed the fuses....no differance

the soloniod also went so had to bump it

could the solonoid being knackerd( works occasonly) be the reason its not charging?

as the thick wire comes from the solonoid strait to the positive batttery termainal? or is it nothimg to do with that?

need help asap!as i want to get on with it tonight.....cheers
____________________
You won't be able to eat my dust......As it'll settle before you get there.

[spitfire123]

Another update,

Made myself take it down the workshop and have a look at it..and this is what i did/found:


Removed the 4 pink clip/ 2 pin clip and bullet clip from what attaches the engine to the loom...the connectors all looked 'okay'.

I then put them all back in and started the engine via starter motor (solonoid now works??) and removed the battery and it ran on its own? so the altenator MUST be working in oder to produce itself a spark?

i belive that the battery charging altenator wires coming from the ALT is the 2 yellow ones on a seporate 2 prong clip....i put a multi meter to them and it read 0V? but as i say engine runs without battery?

all fuses are fine, i changed them all today.

verrrry strage

any help MUCH apriciated
____________________
You won't be able to eat my dust......As it'll settle before you get there.

[Kickstart]

Hi

Without digging into the wiring diagram now (too tired at this moment), with the engine off you should get a bit over 12V over the battery, going up to about 14.5V with the engine being revved. Much under 12V and not a lot will happen (ie, just because indicators won't flash doesn't mean the voltage is zero or close to it).

Some bikes will quite happily run without any battery or charging (certainly the older Aprilia RS125s). Not sure on the Mito.

With the 2 wires from the stator to the regulator / rectifier you need to check the voltage on those as AC (not DC). Without looking at the manual they probably should have something like 45V AC across them with the engine running.

It sounds like the bike is just not charging, and most of the time the issue is a failed regulator / rectifier.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[spitfire123]

[Kickstart]

Hi

Regulator / rectifier will be a small unit with fins on it . 6 wires go to it (2 single wires and 2 pairs). And orange wire, a blue wire and 4 yellow wires. The blue goes to earth, the orange goes to the battery +ve terminal via the battery. One yellow from each pair goes to the alternator and one from each pair goes to the "starter contrl unit".

The regulator / rectifier converts high AC voltage to about 12V DC voltage for the electrical system (regulator part limits the voltage, rectifier part converts to DC).

What is the DC voltage over the yellow wires with the engine running?

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[spitfire123]

[satans_BIG_helper]

[spitfire123]

[spitfire123]

Did a 'beep' continuity test today....negative on the battery and positive on either yellow wiire from the ALT...no beep or nothing?

I take it the poles are fooked or an earth strap maby loose in the alt?

Cheers all
____________________
You won't be able to eat my dust......As it'll settle before you get there.

[dougon2wheels]

did you do the meter on the d.c range when you checked the stator voltage (yellow wires) ?,as the output from the stator will be a.c

"beep" continuity test's only tend to beep if the circuit resistance is below 200 ohms,there's a good chance the overall circuit resistance is above that.......your going to need to look at a circuit diagram and check the circuit resistance with a full continuity test(there's also a good chance that the stators windings are not conneced to earth )

[spitfire123]