Fairing Repairs

[Thom]

right! Well i've gone and damaged my main fairing on the Divvy. on the right hand side i've managed to split it downwards for about 6-8inches. i reckon this has happened because i lost a rubber well not so improvised a bodge with a normal nut and bolt to hold it in place.

Once i find a new well nut and bolt i plan to repair the fairing.

I have some experience of using plastex but i'm curious as to know which will be the better alternative for 'bridging the gap'.

I dont need to fill anything, simply make the split 'mate' properly again, its a nice clean break. so im thinking fibreglass on the underside may be a better option than plastex, any advice?
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Current Bike: 1996 Yamaha TRX850 (The Japanese-Ducati One).
Previous Bikes: 1990 Honda NSR125 'Rothmans' (The smoking one), 1990 Suzuki GS500e 'Caf? fighter' (The loud one), 1987 Kawasaki GPX400r (The quick one), 1997 XJ600s Diversion (The reliable one), 2000 Kawasaki ER-5 (The spontaneously combustive one)

[puremagic72]

As you said, bit of wire mesh and p40 fibre glass from Halfrauds will do it, its what i did to my Front hugger.

But as for the front, i would open it up slightly (dremell) as you cant fill a " perfect crack", then fill it with p38 again from Halfrauds!

But then you would have to spray the panel (which i dont think you would want to do as you have said!)

Baz

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Make; cbr929cc blade Year; 2001
Gsxr 750 2000, alstare Corona, Current bike 1999 R6
(1) Kids in the back seat cause accidents; accidents in the back seat cause kids.

[stinkwheel]

I favour "stitching" the inside of the crack using a hot soldering iron then putting a large splat of epoxy resin over the top of that.

Actually, that's not true. I favour epoxying and pop rivetting a piece of aluminium sheet across the inside of the crack which utterly prevents it opening up again. All that shows on the outside are the heads of the pop rivetts.

If the crack doesn't terminate at the hole, it is sometimes worth drilling a small hole at the "point" of the crack to stop it spreading further.

I once repaired an extensively smashed to bits fairing by gluing and rivetting copper sheet to the outside of it. Certainly a "different" look.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/fairing.jpg
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/gpzrat.jpg
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Thom]

well impressed with that gpz stinkwheel although the only reaosn i plan to repair the divvy is to maintain its resale value

I think i'll try the stitching method and then epoxy over the top of it. luckily its hard to see into the fairing from any direction so i can plead ignorance if anyone asks if it's been repaired
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Current Bike: 1996 Yamaha TRX850 (The Japanese-Ducati One).
Previous Bikes: 1990 Honda NSR125 'Rothmans' (The smoking one), 1990 Suzuki GS500e 'Caf? fighter' (The loud one), 1987 Kawasaki GPX400r (The quick one), 1997 XJ600s Diversion (The reliable one), 2000 Kawasaki ER-5 (The spontaneously combustive one)

[sickpup]

Stock answer is Plastech.

[Scotsman37]

For cracked fairing, I remember seeing this neat way of repairing it on the inside part, but not the side exposed to view.

Get an appropriate sized nibbed soldering iron, where the the crack is and follow the the length of the crack by creating a very shallow channel. Now, melt some black plastic coat hanger along that channel, and lastly gently spread the freshly melted plastic over that shallow channel. This is supposed to give you a much stronger bond to prevent future cracking. On the exposed side the appropriate stuff as mentioned by another to clearly seal the exposed side of the fairing.

However, do not keep the soldering iron in one place for to long as not to distort exposed side of the fairing.

I think stinkwheel has been watching one to many Madmax movies!

[stinkwheel]