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Yamaha fork damper rod Tool, dt125... size?

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Jamie S
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PostPosted: 18:15 - 13 Dec 2009    Post subject: Yamaha fork damper rod Tool, dt125... size? Reply with quote

Hi guys, I'm doing a set of fork seals on my 98 dtr125, the problem is the allen bolt that holds the damper rod in is just spinning, tryed using a wooden dowl shapped to a taper and wedged in to hold the rod but won't grip it well enough.
I would be able to use a bolt of the right sized head and weld it to a length of bar to hold the damper from the inside, the only problem is I don't know what size head I would need, does any one know ? (even roughly?) at a guess its looks to be around 20ish mm , but hard to tell as the leg makes it very hard to judge
I'm going to try my impact gun on the allen bolt in work tomorrow and hope this will free it off, if not then looks like im going to have to hunt around and try find a bolt of the right sized head.

Regards, Jamie.
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 18:29 - 13 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you put the spring and fork cap back on you should be able to undo it. If not, then you will definitely get it undone that way with a buzz gun.
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 18:33 - 13 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

ms51ves3 wrote:
If you put the spring and fork cap back on your should be able to undo it. If not, then you will definitely get it off that way with a buzz gun.


Agreed, put spring back in! Thumbs Up

But presuming you don't have any air tools, then you need to 'jar' it.

This is best done with the combination of the Allen key and a spanner. Slip the round ended spanner on the long end of the Allen key and then put the allen key in. SMACK the spanner abruptly with a hammer to 'crack' the bolt undone ... works a charm! Thumbs Up
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Jamie S
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 13 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue_SV650S wrote:
ms51ves3 wrote:
If you put the spring and fork cap back on your should be able to undo it. If not, then you will definitely get it off that way with a buzz gun.


Agreed, put spring back in! Thumbs Up

But presuming you don't have any air tools, then you need to 'jar' it.

This is best done with the combination of the Allen key and a spanner. Slip the round ended spanner on the long end of the Allen key and then put the allen key in. SMACK the spanner abruptly with a hammer to 'crack' the bolt undone ... works a charm! Thumbs Up


Hi, I didn't try putting the spring back in, will give that a go, I have a compressor here at home ,but my impact gun is in work, so will give it a go tomorrow when ive got my gun.
Cheers, Jamie.
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 18:41 - 13 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamie stokes wrote:

Hi, I didn't try putting the spring back in, will give that a go, I have a compressor here at home ,but my impact gun is in work, so will give it a go tomorrow when ive got my gun.
Cheers, Jamie.


Kool, but if you have it all to hand and fancy a go tonight, then give the spanner trick a try .. it is not as brutal as it sounds and it is VERY effective!! Wink
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TUG
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PostPosted: 22:47 - 13 Dec 2009    Post subject: Re: Yamaha fork damper rod Tool, dt125... size? Reply with quote

jamie stokes wrote:
Hi guys, I'm doing a set of fork seals on my 98 dtr125, the problem is the allen bolt that holds the damper rod in is just spinning, tryed using a wooden dowl shapped to a taper and wedged in to hold the rod but won't grip it well enough.
I would be able to use a bolt of the right sized head and weld it to a length of bar to hold the damper from the inside, the only problem is I don't know what size head I would need, does any one know ? (even roughly?) at a guess its looks to be around 20ish mm , but hard to tell as the leg makes it very hard to judge
I'm going to try my impact gun on the allen bolt in work tomorrow and hope this will free it off, if not then looks like im going to have to hunt around and try find a bolt of the right sized head.

Regards, Jamie.

As said, you only get this problem when the damper rod is free, spring back in and your laughing. its really easy changing fork seals.
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Billing
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 13 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I did my TZR seals all I did was lever my old ones out with a screwdriver, put the new ones in and haven't had any troubles yet Thumbs Up

But I think the haynes manual says you should remove the allen bolt before the spring (Y)
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27cows
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PostPosted: 07:14 - 14 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always use a piece of dowelling, but I don't taper the end, just tap it into the end of the damper rod. Then get someone to hold the dowelling with a pair of pipe grips/the like while you loosen the allen bolt. There's a special tool you can get - I have one that fits several bikes, but it's too short for trailie forks.
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 10:00 - 14 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

try a m12 bolt with 2 nuts (stainless) locked on the shaft of the bolt,
it should be a 19mm nut, tape the bolt into your socket and add extensions untill it reaches the hole
https://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/xz550rj/DSCF0162.jpg
https://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/xz550rj/DSCF0163.jpg
https://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/xz550rj/DSCF0164.jpg
https://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/xz550rj/DSCF0166.jpg

if a 19mm is too big try a zink nut (18mm on m12)
still to big try a m10 bolt and nuts ect ect
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 13:53 - 14 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

The tool from Yamaha was £12 for my TDM damper rods, which isn't too bad you will need a couple 3/8th extender bars though. Puttingin it back together with the spring in didn;t work on the TDM.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 18:17 - 14 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
The tool from Yamaha was £12 for my TDM damper rods, which isn't too bad you will need a couple 3/8th extender bars though. Puttingin it back together with the spring in didn;t work on the TDM.

Was it?! I'm gettin one!!! Is it the taper on the long rod/t-handle? Surprised
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PostPosted: 18:34 - 14 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

~There easy enough to make yourself...
I made mine out of an old socket and grinder to get it to the right shape,took about 10mins to do. Cant find a pic of mine Sad

I also made the same kind of thing as Hmmmnz said for my gs500,but i used a long length of threaded bar with 2 nuts locked together on either end.
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Jamie S
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PostPosted: 19:20 - 14 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, it aint freeing off, 200ltr compressor, 1/2inch snap on air gun, and the spring back in and it did not want to undo, it just span, so I (stupidly) put a bit of wooden dowl down the inside to stop it spinning, which promply snapped off half way down inside the damper, so now I can't even get a tool down there to hold it.
Does any one know how long the allen bolt is?
Would I get away with drilling the head off and removing the rest once the legs are apart with mole grips/stud extractor ect?
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PostPosted: 19:34 - 14 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure it's only a few inches long at the most.
I can't see any reason you couldn't drill the head off,it won't be tight into the damper rod once the head's off but i would try my best to get that wood out and do it the proper way just incase...

EDIT:
If needed i can go and take some pics of the internals (damper rod/allen bolt length e.t.c.) if it helps?
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Jamie S
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 14 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

justmetoo125 wrote:
I'm sure it's only a few inches long at the most.
I can't see any reason you couldn't drill the head off,it won't be tight into the damper rod once the head's off but i would try my best to get that wood out and do it the proper way just incase...

EDIT:
If needed i can go and take some pics of the internals (damper rod/allen bolt length e.t.c.) if it helps?

Aye that would be great if you wouldn't mind.
Thanks , Jamie.
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PostPosted: 21:22 - 14 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamie stokes wrote:
Aye that would be great if you wouldn't mind.
Thanks , Jamie.


I'll sort the pics at 11:00,just watching bad santa Laughing
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PostPosted: 22:35 - 14 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not great pics but will go you an idea what you're facing...I'd definately not go with drilling the head off ..

https://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/fronterapics/temp/for%20jamie/14122009567.jpg

https://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/fronterapics/temp/for%20jamie/14122009568.jpg

https://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/fronterapics/temp/for%20jamie/14122009569.jpg

https://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/fronterapics/temp/for%20jamie/14122009570.jpg

https://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/fronterapics/temp/for%20jamie/14122009571.jpg

https://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/fronterapics/temp/for%20jamie/14122009572.jpg

https://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/fronterapics/temp/for%20jamie/14122009573.jpg

https://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/fronterapics/temp/for%20jamie/14122009574.jpg

https://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x13/fronterapics/temp/for%20jamie/14122009575.jpg
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 08:27 - 15 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

XlonewolfX wrote:
chris-red wrote:
The tool from Yamaha was £12 for my TDM damper rods, which isn't too bad you will need a couple 3/8th extender bars though. Puttingin it back together with the spring in didn;t work on the TDM.

Was it?! I'm gettin one!!! Is it the taper on the long rod/t-handle? Surprised


It's just the bit, the handle is extra I just used 2, 3/8th entender bars instead. For the sake of £12 it makes the job MUCH easier.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 15 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

It didnt undo with the spring back in and the fork cap back on?
For future reference you could always just buzz guna the bottom bolt off and drain it before dismantling it.

I dont see why you struggled so much, the hardest part with doing seals on yams (125cc and lower) is the stupid circlip caps, you have to push it down, pry out the circlip then slowly increase spring tention to pop the cap out because it has an O ring around it.
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Mark65
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 15 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

God bless wizzy guns for fork legs eh lonewolf lol.

Mark
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Jamie S
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PostPosted: 16:59 - 16 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorted it, managed to get the wood out and used my spair rear wheel spindle welded on to a bit of bar, perfect size.
Very Happy
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TUG
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PostPosted: 23:34 - 16 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark1965 wrote:
God bless wizzy guns for fork legs eh lonewolf lol.

Mark

Isn't it just mark lol, Even so, when i had my FZR400 legs off, i bet if i would of just left the oil and spring in place using an allen key i would of had the damper assembly apart. But no, i made the noob mistake of taking it all apart first lol.

I've done more than 15 fork seals on bikes ranging fron peds to big bikes and its been nothing but plain sailing. But air tools do make life easy.
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