HOW TO: Remove a seized bolt

[Willson]

For those that don't know.

Seized bolts are obviously a pain in the arse, and unless you do it right, can result in lots of rounded heads, knackered tools, painful fingers and lots of swearing (I know this from experience).

First thing I tend to do is spray on a healthy amount of Plusgas:
https://www.c1store.co.uk/store/images/plusgas1.jpg
And try a bit more leverage.
Try to tighten it a little first just to loosen it up (Thanks CaNsA, I missed this bit), then try to undo it.
With allen keys/socket wrench I tend to find slipping a cheap ring spanner around the end of the tool and using that as a lever tends to help as well.

Dependant upon what you have to hand and where the bolt is, you could try using an impact driver. If trying to undo it doesn't work straight away with this, go back and forth etc. (Had this problem with a seized front sprocket nut, and the above still didn't loosen it). I originally forgot about this step as I don't have an impact driver. Thanks Joe for pointing this out

If you're still having no luck, then heat the area of the bolt with a blowtorch. Obviously if you're working with any bolts that are too close to flammable fluids this presents it's own set of hazards such as blowing yourself up. So I take no responsibility for anyone stupid enough to try that.

After heating up said bolt (not just the head, down where the shaft of the bolt would be if you can) try again with the wrench and spanner combination and it should come right out.

If at the end of this you're still in the same problem as before it's time to take it to a professional. I used the above method for removing the gear change from my SV650s earlier on as it had been put together with thread lock and the allen key kept slipping out and it worked just fine. So if I can do it, anyone can!

I'll get some pics taken of the above steps and update this later on/tomorrow/in the week.

Willson
____________________
Benson: Wouldn't life be easier if we were all turtles?
Me: Pig on bread = The way forward.
Riding: '00 Suzuki SV650S. Previous: '99 Kawasaki ER5 - sold, '02 Suzuki GZ125 Marauder - sold

[CaNsA]

You forgot,

"Try to tighten it a little first just to loosen it up"

9/10 it will free the bolt.

[.....]

What about an impact driver as well? That usually comes out before heat with me.

[Willson]

CaNsA: Thanks for pointing that out... I missed that bit.

Joe: I don't have an impact driver, but I'll update it to include.

Willson
____________________
Benson: Wouldn't life be easier if we were all turtles?
Me: Pig on bread = The way forward.
Riding: '00 Suzuki SV650S. Previous: '99 Kawasaki ER5 - sold, '02 Suzuki GZ125 Marauder - sold

[CaNsA]

LOL Wilson,

bloody half-arsed effort there......

[Willson]

I was going from what I've done this afternoon... let me have my moment! Updated just for you!

Willson
____________________
Benson: Wouldn't life be easier if we were all turtles?
Me: Pig on bread = The way forward.
Riding: '00 Suzuki SV650S. Previous: '99 Kawasaki ER5 - sold, '02 Suzuki GZ125 Marauder - sold

[CaNsA]

Dude, looks good but needs some tits in there.

also, try to tighten it up before you do anything.

[Willson]

When I do the pics I'll try and get my missus to pose then

And what you mean? Try to tighten the bolt before undoing it?

Willson
____________________
Benson: Wouldn't life be easier if we were all turtles?
Me: Pig on bread = The way forward.
Riding: '00 Suzuki SV650S. Previous: '99 Kawasaki ER5 - sold, '02 Suzuki GZ125 Marauder - sold

[BigGeeking]

thanks mate good help

[CaNsA]

[Willson]

Yeah I get where ye coming from... makes sense! It's now in said guide anyway!

Willson
____________________
Benson: Wouldn't life be easier if we were all turtles?
Me: Pig on bread = The way forward.
Riding: '00 Suzuki SV650S. Previous: '99 Kawasaki ER5 - sold, '02 Suzuki GZ125 Marauder - sold

[DrDonnyBrago]

When you use a heat source to unstick a bolt, it's better to use it on the surrounding metal than the bolt itself. The idea is that the surrounding metal expands around the bolt freeing it off. I have actually had the most success when heating the surrounding metal and cooling the bolt itself, either with ice or freeze and release sprays.


And don't forget that if it is a nut that is seized on, you can always cut it off or use a nut splitter. Also, mole grips as a last resort are a godsend, get a pair of the original Irwin vice grips though, they cost about £15 but they are worth every penny.

[AndyB1989]

also if its a socket head bolt or a torx or other form of security bolt make sure you are trying to shock it loose for the first bit as slowly increasing the torque will just round it off !

[G]

[Rogerborg]

A sharp tap on the head (directly in the direction of the shaft) can also break it free.

I haven't tried Wall Drive (but shall order some forth-with ) but Irwin Bolt Grips are the daddy for bolts / nuts that are starting to round off, where you just want to get them off rather than preserve the head. They're sockets with a twist that bites down on the head as you turn.

If you've got room, a pipe wrench will also bite down on a rounded head.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[The Artist]

If anyone can remove the stuck rear spindle from my bike they will have my eternal gratitude.

I don't think it is possible.

[Willson]

If the bolt's rounded a good set of Stilsons should help.

If you can't get the leverage slide a length of pipe onto the end of it.

Willson
____________________
Benson: Wouldn't life be easier if we were all turtles?
Me: Pig on bread = The way forward.
Riding: '00 Suzuki SV650S. Previous: '99 Kawasaki ER5 - sold, '02 Suzuki GZ125 Marauder - sold

[stinkwheel]

Get one of these:
https://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk/images/cl/clarke-ranger-35a-compressor.jpg

And one of these:
https://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00GCSQmJaRaThD/Air-Impact-Wrench-309411-.jpg

Go outside. Undo stuck bolt. Spend rest of the day riding the bike.

That said. It took me 4 hours to get the mainstand pivot pin out of my VFR the other day though. Had to hacksaw through it in 4 places then drill the stumps out of the alloy frame lugs with a blacksmiths drill. Thing is, that isn't even a threaded part, it's a plain, mild steel pin in an alloy hole.

Plus gas for 3 days, heat, and attempts to batter it out with a 2.5lb lump hammer and drift were all fruitless. The stumps wouldn't even drift out after I drilled well over halfway through them. Testament to the fact that some things can just be too stuck to come out by conventional means.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Lipsmoker]

Yeah the method of tightening it has always worked for me,

A seized bold 99% of the time is rust in the threads so the tightening and loosening method helps work the rust to the end of the thread. You can undo pretty much anything with patience, not everyone has impact tools to hand.

Rogerborg some good tips there
____________________
Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.

[pepperami]

I`ve found that if you`re careful and not over zealous, repeated heating and rapid cooling can get a nut/stud/bolt to let go.
I recomend that you throw away the nut/stud/bolt afterwards though, because you`ll possibly find the process has changed the make up of the metal (weakened it)

worked for me on a old exhaust stud that refused to let go
____________________
I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now!

[trisers]

Another trick which sometimes helps (i've used it successfully twice, unsuccessfully half a dozen times) is to heat the area as stated but before attacking the nut/bolt with a spanner/grips/whatever push a candle up against it while its still very hot and let the wax run freely...if there's any amount of rust involved it seems to soak it up and penetrate the thread, lubricating it to help it unstick...

[stinkwheel]

The best one with a rounded off bolt head or a stuck stud is to weld a big nut to the top of it.

As well as giving you something to unscrew, the phenomenal quantity of heat this bungs into it in such a localised manner is pretty much impossable to achieve any other way.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Aivaras55]

I have some trick which I've used for my stuck and rounded bolt(I didn't read any of above posts):

Take mini hacksaw(it's cheap) saw bolt in half, basically make a straight line in bolt so you could use flat screwdriver. If it's really stuck and you can't open after with flat screwdriver then apply wd-40 like every 1 hours for the whole day, leave soaking at night and the next day you should open it.

That worked for me. Off course it's only for those who tried to unscrew stuck bolt and after many tries got bolt rounded.

[sandman1976]

Also....

This morning i got a bolt stuck in, with an allen key head, and of course the allen fitting stripped before the key!

Welder out, welded a 10mm nut to the head of the bolt (welding on the inside of the nut)

Hey presto, cracked it off with a 10mm spanner