ZZR valves... Kickstart/stinkwheel please look :)

[djr]

Right... Back... Before Christmas I think (I'm a little bit lazy as the misses keeps telling me!) i took the z apart as it had broken down and wouldn't start anymore, it had done this the previous time i rode it but after changing the spark plugs it ran fine (besides having no power below 4000 rpm) couple of mates suggested to check the valves and that it was a common problem on krapasakis .

Anyway fairings off, valve cover off, measure up all the valve gaps. Cam shafts off(under bucket shims... What fun!), measured each shim. After ordering new shims and fitting them the fun starts... First camshaft in, lined up. Second one in lined up and the chain was really loose between the two sprockets and the first (exhaust) sprocket was nolonger in the right place.

Anyone any expirience with these bikes and have any suggestions on how to make it easier? Have read lots on the internet of people taking over 7 hours to do the valves on these but can't find any tips on how to get them back in.

After about 5 attempts i'm quite tempted just to throw it on ebay OR put in back of a van and take to a dealer and see if they'll put them back in for me .

[Kickstart]

Hi

Never done them on the ZZR, but Yamahas need the cams out quite often as well. Often you land up one tooth out, so just take that cam out and move it a tooth round. Can take a few attempts.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[djr]

[Frost]

Yes two cogs together is normal. You have removed the chain tensioner haven't you? Be pretty funny if you hadn't

It's definatly worth fitting a new cam chain if your fiddling with it anyway. If you are doing so, check it's the same length as the original.

[djr]

[Frost]

Yup thats the way to do it. So Turn it over with both attached until the join is at the bottom, then make sure you have the same length of either coming out the top. You can also re thread the chain by using gravity to get it down, then a bit of string to get it back up

Normally you have no excess length to play with, but with the tensioner out you have the exact right length to hook it on the sprocket and join them up. Sounds like you might have too little chain, or maybe something isn't seated correctly? Perhaps the cam's are at TDC but the engine isn't?

[djr]

[Frost]

The mark will only line up at TDC. At TDC 2 pistons will be up, 2 down and all valves closed. Any other position and the cams won't sit right.

[lonner]

krapasaki you say


more a case of fuckwit owner


there easy and a monkey can do it go figure


and yes you can take that as an insult

[Kickstart]

Hi

TDC on 2 cylinders will be BDC on the other 2 on an inline 4 (well, not on a current R1). On bike engines with wasted spark ignition then it doesn't matter which TDC cylinder 1 is on (unlike a car with a distributor).

Problem is that if you hook the cam sprockets into the cam chain and then push the cams down into place they will slightly rotate in relation to the head.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[djr]

[djr]

[Frost]

Get it so that the chain is in place on the bottom cog with it in TDC. Have equal amounts of chain hanging over each side of the head. Find the way the cams go and place them on top of the head, then wrap the chain over.