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Rebuilding top end on NSR, help needed

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Scotty
Scooter Boi



Joined: 31 Jul 2002
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PostPosted: 17:42 - 19 Sep 2003    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you download the manual.
I think theres a circlip in there somewhere stopping it coming out.
me thinks.
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Scott
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 19 Sep 2003    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Reading the manual both rings should be marked. As I read it they are just saying not to interchange them, ie if you have installed them and used them then do a rebuild and reuse the rings make sure they go back in the same positions. The marks should face up.

The power valve is held in place with a circlip which is under the seal. The shaft will only go into the bits of the power valve inside the exhaust port in one position.

The gaps in the rings should sit over the small pins in the ring gaps (it stops them rotating round the piston), and those pins should point towards the back of the engine.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 19 Sep 2003    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The seal has a long small spring as part of it. You are probably most of the way there.

All the best

Keith
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 19 Sep 2003    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Scottys did have a circlip , but it didn't survive being removed! Once the seal of out I think the shaft should just come out.

All the best

Keith
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 21:20 - 19 Sep 2003    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Don't think it matter whether they are up or down. Just pull firmly and carefully (be careful not to bend the shaft). Remember that the shaft and those flaps have been subject to loads of heat and exhaust gases for the past decade.

All the best

Keith
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 22:06 - 19 Sep 2003    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Take the barrel along to a local motor engineer / decent bike shop. They can probably hoik it out in 2 minutes flat.

All the best

Keith
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Scotty
Scooter Boi



Joined: 31 Jul 2002
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PostPosted: 01:12 - 20 Sep 2003    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well tis what i'll be doing!
I imagine not to bollock the bike, try keep it below 5k i imagine,
but vary the throttle every now and again i think.
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Scott
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Scotty
Scooter Boi



Joined: 31 Jul 2002
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 20 Sep 2003    Post subject: Reply with quote

imagine all the trouble if it was a 4 stroke you'd be having Very Happy
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 14:13 - 20 Sep 2003    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Disconnect the cables from the servo. The turn the ignition on and allow it to reset its position.

The one with the spring goes on the right (ie front of the bike) as you said.

As far as I can make out the cable with the spring connects to the servo motor nearest the frame.

Make sure you get the cables the right way round or it will do all sorts of odd things (such as have no power). Also make sure you adjust them correctly as if the cables are too tight you stand a fair chance of burning the servo motor or its control unit out.

All the best

Keith
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Hex
Party Boy



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 21 Sep 2003    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been covered lots of times how to run in mate if you do a search. Basically you want to vary the revs and keep under certain limits (about 7k for so many hundred miles etc).

Normal running in period is 500 miles.

As said do a search and you should find loads on it as its been covered a lot of times before.

Hex
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