1991 GPZ500S Camchain Tensioner Removal?

[MikeyBrown]

Hi,
I'm not sure if this has already been posted somewhere on the forum, and my internet is horrendous on an Ipad, but I would just like to know how I'd go about removing the camchain tensioner from my GPZ500? Is it as simple as just undoing the bolts and removing it from the engine or is more complicated than that?

I am currently waiting for a Haynes manual thats taken over a week to deliver but I just need to remove the tensioner so I can take it to a local shop to order a new one (the shop owner says he needs to see it, to check if he has any decent priced New-Old-Stock in his storeroom). Also, is it possible to rebuild/service the damaged tensioner or is replacement the best/cheapest option?

Thanks in advance
Mike
____________________
Past Bikes: '97 CG125, '91 GPZ500S, '01 FZS600, '07 S/Triple, '99 ZX9R, '82 GP125, '83 GP100, '03 SV1000S, '98 ZX6R
Current Bike: '07 FZ1N
Trackdays: Darley Moor - 15/6/12, Donington - 28/8/12

[Kickstart]

Hi

Yes you can just remove it like that, although make VERY certain you do not crank the engine with it out. Probably best to set the engine to tdc.

However you can't just lob it back in. It is a sprung ratchet, so when you remove it the spring will extend pusher the tensioner out to its full extent. And the ratchet will stop you pushing it back in. Normally remove the bolt from the end, remove the spring, reset the tensioner and put it in place, then replace the spring and bolt (and turn the engine over a few times by hand ).

There is not really that much to wear in one. The tensioner teeth shouldn't move enough to wear while the spring is only there to move the tensioner once in a blue moon to take up slack.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[MikeyBrown]

[Kickstart]

Hi

The cam chains do wear and as they wear the tensioner needs to take up that slack. Just that they seem to get worse at it with age. Possibly the spring getting old combined with it having further to move to take up the tension.

Also on the GPZ there is a primary drive chain taking drive from the crank to the clutch. This can also wear with age but has no tensioner. And can thus slap around like a worn cam chain.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[MikeyBrown]

[Kickstart]

Hi

How long is a piece of string?

They were well known for needing new cam chains years ago.These days people just seem to replace the tensioner rather than the cam chain.

The cam chain is possible to replace with the engine in the frame (use a rivet link one), but the I think the primary drive chain would need a full engine strip.

Personally, they are fairly rattly engines anyway. I would just leave it unless really noisy.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[MikeyBrown]

[dextersaurus]

As above.

My GPZ was noisy as hell, tensioner out and clean it up, make sure it'll click out to take up slack, but won't push back. Can also slacken the bolts and let it click out once or twice and put it back in, if you think it's still too slack... wouldn't recommend that though.

Synchronising the carbs can also help a lot. they tend to get a lot noisier when they are out of sync by a tiny bit.

Another thing it could be is the valve clearances... how many miles has it done?

Dunc

[temeluchus]

Kawasaki did change the design of their tensioners through the 90s (I think there was a recall on the zzr1100 for it).

The one on my gpz750r was ditched for a manual one.
____________________
Some shite cruiser. Now with guns and FREEDOM!

[Dazbo666]

@ the OP
Yes you can just take the tensioner out, but as already mentioned, do not crank the engine with it removed.
You'll need a little manual dexterity and the correct procedure to reinstall the new one, but it's more than possible as minor a DIY job
The bike would benefit from balancing the carbs, but also be aware that GPZ engines tend to sound quite rattly compared to a lot of other bikes
(I had a '91 GPZ previously and learned loads about riding and maintenance with that bike )
____________________
1st bike (Sept'06 - May'10) : 1991 GPZ500S / Current bike (since Nov 2009) : 2003 Suzuki Bandit 600N
Word of the day : DILLIGAF

[MikeyBrown]

Hi,
Thanks for the responses, I'll have a check over the carbs and maybe see about balancing them and to be honest, I might remove the tensioner and just have a poke around with it, see if I can adjust it and check it all over.

And it's done 17600 miles, but it's been, by the looks of it, dry stored for the last 12-18 months. I have serviced it recently (but not valve clearances or camchain tension) and checked everything over to make sure it's roadworthy of course

Failing that, could it just be a typical noisy engine then? I've heard a few people say they sound they're going to explode on idle ahaha other than this rattle/jingle/click, the engine sounds pretty sweet given that it's 20 this year!
____________________
Past Bikes: '97 CG125, '91 GPZ500S, '01 FZS600, '07 S/Triple, '99 ZX9R, '82 GP125, '83 GP100, '03 SV1000S, '98 ZX6R
Current Bike: '07 FZ1N
Trackdays: Darley Moor - 15/6/12, Donington - 28/8/12