Clutch fade

[panrider_uk]

Hi

If I have to use the clutch a lot (stop/start/crawling pace stuff in town) the clutch lever travels further and further before I get any bite.

If the bike is left for a few hours the clutch is back to normal so it seems temperature related.

It also feels normal on my usual daily commute (either dual carriageway or country B roads).

Is it likely I just need the fluid changing or could it be a sign of something more serious?

Thanks

Mark
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Current bikes: Honda ST1100 Pan European. Moto Guzzi V85 TT Travel

[jakeeNZ]

How long has this been happening, and is it getting progressively worse?

I'd change the hydraulic fluid anyway if you don't know the last time it was done, the symptom should be something that occurs once the fluid heats up and water separates out and compresses. Hence less and less clutch. If it was (unlikely to be) air, there would be a problem all the time.

If that doesnt work there may be some fluid bypass with heavy use, however this would also be occuring more frequently.

When clutch plates are near death they can slip with high use (heat)
before they slip at any use

Could be a major, change the fluid and answer those questions and we'll probably isolate the issue. let us know.
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Yamaha - Best manufacturer of anything - anywhere

[panrider_uk]

Been happening for about a year.

I don't do much stop/start town riding so I keep forgetting about it

I'll make sure the fluid's changed at the next service and see how it goes.

Thanks

Mark
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Current bikes: Honda ST1100 Pan European. Moto Guzzi V85 TT Travel

[jakeeNZ]

I dont mean to be anything other than helpful here mate.

There is a slight chance that if your next service is a wee way off that you might do damage to the clutch when it is happening.

Make it a priority to change that fluid mate.

Its only a simple hydaulic system, compared to a cars brakes anyway.
We could even talk you through it and DOT4 is cheap as chips
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Yamaha - Best manufacturer of anything - anywhere

[TUG]

What colour is your clutch fluid? if its not clear or a light tint of brown then it needs changing, it will of absorbed alot of water and heated up as its in contact with the engine don't forget.
Change that first is my advice.
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Haz ER-5, innit!

[panrider_uk]

I'll try and get it changed over the weekend.

Thanks

Mark
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Current bikes: Honda ST1100 Pan European. Moto Guzzi V85 TT Travel

[jakeeNZ]

Ah thats a bit misleading, even downright rubbish.

Point #1:: There is no reason for a good working system to allow in lots of water.

Point #2:: There is no clutch fluid in the engine.

Point #3:: Hydraulics work by using cylinders to actuate levers by hydraulic pressure transferred to a slave cyclinder instead of cables to actuate levers.

So there is no clutch fluid in your engine, just a slave cylinder, which is actuated by fluid.

The fluid may heat up somewhat as a result of heat radiation from the engine, but thats all.

Good one on prioritising the fluid change mate.
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Yamaha - Best manufacturer of anything - anywhere

[Walloper]

And don't go buying a speshal tool from halfrauds to bleed your clutch.
There's probably hardly any flow from the clutch lever master cylinder so it wont open those check valve things on the eze bleeder tubes
£6 for one of them. Get a bit of fish tank air stone plastic tubing (Cheaper than Chips) and use that. The money saved can be put towards a clutch kit.

For the record A vehicle's clutch is designed to last the lifetime of the vehicle and therefore not a serviceable item.
Unless you are one of those thugs with a wee No. plate and a big pipe hooning aroon an aroon. Hard starts and full power acceleration will take years off any clutch.
Or have you been towing the caravan with that Two Wheeled SUV of yours?
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[TUG]

[TUG]

If your worried that your master cylinder is at fault a simple test can be used, those brake line pliers at halfauds (plastic things so wont damage your rubber brake line, i'm not sure on braided lines though i'm sorry). Squeeze your lever in, and clamp the line, now keep it clamped, release the lever and try and squeeze that lever again, it should be rock solid, there we go, we just eliminated your master cylinder seals.
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Haz ER-5, innit!

[TUG]

Any results?
____________________
Haz ER-5, innit!