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Keeping Tyres in contact with the road

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Ingah
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PostPosted: 17:53 - 11 May 2010    Post subject: Keeping Tyres in contact with the road Reply with quote

I find riding at a brisk pace on these uneven Welsh roads to be a little bum-clenching at times due to the many many relatively minor bumps, holes and dips in the road (i couldn't swear to it, but it does often feel like the bike's tyres keep losing contact with the road surface momentarily). It detracts alot from my enjoyment of taking corners because of the fear that the bike may not recover properly and send me off, over cliff edges and into the side of mountains (it's very "Welsh" geographically round here)

Because of the bike's age, i'm tempted to blame the bike (it's a 1995 CB500 with nearly 50K on the clocks). However, i don't have the experience to know whether it really is the bike, or whether it's supposed to be like that (i.e. motorbike tyres often feel like they're leaving the road surface and it can't be modified not to do that).

I've replaced a great deal of parts with new on the bike since buying it (relevant things to this probably being the front fork oil and seals, rear wheel bearings and head bearings), and it's finally got to the stage where i can think of replacing parts to improve the bike rather than simply to keep it running properly. Hence this issue is something i'm looking at.

The 2 modifications springing to my mind are progressive (or otherwise improved) front fork springs - i've already been told the fork oil i'm using is high quality. I am unsure if this will help or not though, as i don't think i want a harder ride. The other thing (probably biggest thing) is the rear suspension units, of which i'm thinking of buying Hagon at £120 (not a cheap mod considering the age of this bike). Currently though, the front wheel bearing has slight play, and so that is definitely next before i start any "improvements".

Note: The current rear suspension is definitely not "broken" (in that when pressure is applied to the rear of the bike, it comes up again gradually and smoothly as i expect it to). And it's only adjustable property is the pre-load.

I'm just hoping for ideas and advice (and hopefully to be reassured that replacing the rear suspension isn't going to be largely money down the toilet!), because i don't think i ride very fast, but the bike worries me enough to prevent me relaxing enough to go faster!
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AJ
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PostPosted: 18:14 - 11 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Difficult one to answer this on the basis of we have no idea of your riding experience. I have a bandit 600 with 67000 miles on the clock on these welsh roads where I live it soaks up the bumps ok. Sometimes out handling my mates on the sports bikes, I see them drifting over the white line on some bends.

But if you know the roads well then try to avoid the potholes and bumps, I know easier said than done or try relaxing your grip a bit on the handlebars. I fitted renthal bars to mine that gives loads more leverage maybe you could try that on yours.
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garth
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 11 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tend to spend most of my time making the wheels come off the ground. Laughing
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Ingah
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PostPosted: 18:42 - 11 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

AJ wrote:
Difficult one to answer this on the basis of we have no idea of your riding experience. I have a bandit 600 with 67000 miles on the clock on these welsh roads where I live it soaks up the bumps ok. Sometimes out handling my mates on the sports bikes, I see them drifting over the white line on some bends.

But if you know the roads well then try to avoid the potholes and bumps, I know easier said than done or try relaxing your grip a bit on the handlebars. I fitted renthal bars to mine that gives loads more leverage maybe you could try that on yours.


2 and a half years riding as only transport (so all weather commuting). 4 months of pizza delivery service (so commuting + riding at work). Owned the CB500 for the last ~16 months, a CG125 ever since i first started riding, and at work use a 50cc naff scooter (in it's defense it seems to be derestricted. Thank god).

Funnily enough i'm fitting some renthal bars soon anyway to fix my ever-so-slightly-bent (therefore annoying) current bars. Good to know that it might help!

The fact that you're saying "soaks up bumps OK" is reinforcing my belief this bike isn't quite right, as i don't feel that is the case with mine (especially considering they're supposed to handle very very well).

It is totally impossible to avoid the bumps on many of these roads as they're often literally covered in them (up the side of mountains etc). And i have a relaxed grip on the bars already as i'm well aware that a death-grip makes everything much worse.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 19:14 - 11 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

A lot of minor roads in North Yorks are the same being more or less tarmac shovelled over rough tracks in the 1950s.
There can be a certain speed where the suspension works better - I mean you might not be going fast enough (or slow enough!) to smooth things out.
Better suspension will help but if the current units are not obviously failing it does seem a big expense for possible moderate improvement.
My bandit (1200) was very good on them too.
I think heavier bikes are better generally.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 08:05 - 12 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a Classic Downforce issue.
Have you thought about fitting a massive rear wing/spollier or eating double rations of Welsh Hotpot and Tatties?
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 09:30 - 12 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

could be possible suspension wearing out, or not set up correctly for your weight etc.
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Paxovasa
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PostPosted: 09:35 - 12 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the tyre pressures also Thumbs Up
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Ingah
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 12 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
This is a Classic Downforce issue.
Have you thought about fitting a massive rear wing/spollier or eating double rations of Welsh Hotpot and Tatties?

Yes, but then i decided against it Rolling Eyes

Acemastr wrote:
could be possible suspension wearing out, or not set up correctly for your weight etc.

I'm kind of hoping you're right on the former point. Regarding the latter, i've only got preload to play with and i can't see it having that big a difference? (both adjusters are on 2 out of 5 atm).

Paxovasa wrote:
Check the tyre pressures also Thumbs Up

Tyre pressures are fine, i check them nearly weekly. I use ~40PSI for rear and 36PSI for front (Bridgestone BT45s) as according to the CB500 Club this will make the tyre run cooler and last longer (and is the pressure Bridgestone apparently recommend atm).

If it's at all relevant too, i weigh about 15 stone now (!) - and the bike almost always has nearly 10kg (Almax series 3) in a tank bag, on the bike.
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Paxovasa
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PostPosted: 16:04 - 12 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

40 psi rear seems high to me.

But if that is what is recommended than fair enough. Thumbs Up
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 16:10 - 12 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would have thought a soft as shite CB500 would soak up bumpy roads far better than a stiff modern sports 6. The TDM is better than the Four on poor surfaces because the suspention is of softer and of lower quality. The Four is too stiff for shit roads.
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Ingah
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 12 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paxovasa wrote:
40 psi rear seems high to me.

But if that is what is recommended than fair enough. Thumbs Up


"Bridgestone BT45s are now fitted as standard and are generally regarded as the best all-round tyre (all-square tyres being very rare). They last well (up to 6000 on the rear, 10,000 on the front) and provide enough grip to mince your footpegs. Bridgestone used to recommend pressures of 29 psi front, 36 psi rear, but have now changed their advice to 36 psi front, 40 psi rear. This should make them last longer, but run cooler. Take your pick."

Taken from the CB500 Club's website. Link: https://www.cb500club.co.uk/#/tyres/4532511225 (link may not work because it's a fancy flash based jobbie)

I can definitely feel my hand getting closer to my credit card now anyway Wink
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njd27
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PostPosted: 16:19 - 12 May 2010    Post subject: Re: Keeping Tyres in contact with the road Reply with quote

Ingah wrote:
The 2 modifications springing to my mind are progressive (or otherwise improved) front fork springs - i've already been told the fork oil i'm using is high quality. I am unsure if this will help or not though, as i don't think i want a harder ride. The other thing (probably biggest thing) is the rear suspension units, of which i'm thinking of buying Hagon at £120 (not a cheap mod considering the age of this bike). Currently though, the front wheel bearing has slight play, and so that is definitely next before i start any "improvements".


We've got two CB500s. Mine is a 2000 with 45k on it, still on the original rear shocks. My OH's is a 1994 with 37k and last year I replaced the rear shocks with new Hagon ones because the previous ones had completely seized.

The Hagon shocks are definitely stiffer than the stock items but obviously the bike feels someone more unsettled over potholes/bumps as a result. It doesn't help that the tyres are very squared-off on that bike.

It sounds like it's pretty worn out to be honest - why not sell it and buy something newer and more interesting?
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Ingah
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 12 May 2010    Post subject: Re: Keeping Tyres in contact with the road Reply with quote

njd27 wrote:
Ingah wrote:
The 2 modifications springing to my mind are progressive (or otherwise improved) front fork springs - i've already been told the fork oil i'm using is high quality. I am unsure if this will help or not though, as i don't think i want a harder ride. The other thing (probably biggest thing) is the rear suspension units, of which i'm thinking of buying Hagon at £120 (not a cheap mod considering the age of this bike). Currently though, the front wheel bearing has slight play, and so that is definitely next before i start any "improvements".


We've got two CB500s. Mine is a 2000 with 45k on it, still on the original rear shocks. My OH's is a 1994 with 37k and last year I replaced the rear shocks with new Hagon ones because the previous ones had completely seized.

The Hagon shocks are definitely stiffer than the stock items but obviously the bike feels someone more unsettled over potholes/bumps as a result. It doesn't help that the tyres are very squared-off on that bike.

It sounds like it's pretty worn out to be honest - why not sell it and buy something newer and more interesting?


Because i'm a student with no guaranteed home address to register with an insurer for a reasonable price (i live with my missus and her family - the bikes are registered there atm, but you never know...) and since i bought the bike 14/15 months ago i have fixed/replaced (this is not even a comprehensive list it's just what i could remember):
Coolant leak.
Rear wheel bearings.
Chain and sprockets.
Front tyre.
Rear tyre (losing pressure, slow puncture).
Head bearings.
Starter button.
Indicator buttons.
Front fork seals and fork oil.
Ignition switch (unit).
Speedo drive (unit).
Speedo cable.
Front brake hose (replaced with Goodridge braided).
Both mirrors.
Brake lever.
Speedo / rev counter backlights.
Fuel filler cap.
Rear brake drum seized.
I've also fitted a chain oiler, the bike has engine bars. There are a few other practical modifications too that i can't remember right now. I've also had _everything_ serviced, including things like valves, air filters etc.

Front wheel bearings are next!

Thing is after all that i wouldn't get a penny of it back if i sold the bike. Having got largely new parts on the majority of the bike, it seems like a bad idea to move from this (now) largely new machine on to another old potential heap of future issues doesn't it?

I've been rather amazed by how expensive replacement parts were for this bike (my other bike is a CG125 you see), let alone a 600 or something. I also find it heavy (it's very hilly around here) and a 600 is likely to be worse in that way.
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njd27
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PostPosted: 16:54 - 12 May 2010    Post subject: Re: Keeping Tyres in contact with the road Reply with quote

Ingah wrote:
Thing is after all that i wouldn't get a penny of it back if i sold the bike. Having got largely new parts on the majority of the bike, it seems like a bad idea to move from this (now) largely new machine on to another old potential heap of future issues doesn't it?


True that! I can hardly talk, considering how much I've spent (definitely more than the value of the bikes) keeping our two going.

One other thing to point out is - if fitting wider bars makes you sit upright more because it's an easier reach, then you'll notice the bumps more. Being leant forward means you take more weight on your legs rather than your arse.
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multijoy
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 12 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried dropping the pressures? I run my CB500 on the 29/36 settings and what you're describing has never been an issue. Granted, I'm using Avons, but I doubt there's much in it.
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Tig
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PostPosted: 18:57 - 12 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

multijoy wrote:
Have you tried dropping the pressures? I run my CB500 on the 29/36 settings and what you're describing has never been an issue. Granted, I'm using Avons, but I doubt there's much in it.

I'd second this option first, as it's by far the cheapest and quickest to try, just to see if it does make a difference at all? You can always go back to the higher PSIs if not Smile

cheers
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