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spray paintign bodywork

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Welshd1k
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: spray paintign bodywork Reply with quote

is there any special preperation? i got a solo cowl with damage to the paint and want to repaint it. would i be better of sanding it all down and startign afresh? i know the colour i need .

so for abs plastic i assume i need some special primer? then a few coats of colour then a top coat ??? any help is good never sprayed anything other than an exhaust with vht
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 13:56 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

its generally as said on the back by most spray cans

roughen it a bit

spray on 3 THIN layers of primer

leave to harden over 24hrs

roughen up again with a bit of wet and dry (fine grade)

spray on 3 coats of paint, agan very thin and about 30 mins between coats - don't let it drip then leave overnight

lightly rub down then apply lacquer, again very thinly, its runs quite easily about 3 coats

then leave for another 24-48 hrs and then polish to bring up the shine if necessary

Thats how i been taught, its boring and very time consuming!

let us know the results
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locked
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PostPosted: 13:57 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

sand it down to remove all the shit on grime, 2 layers of plastic primer leaving it to dry between each layer.

3 layers of paint, again leaving it to dry between eat layer and then 2 layers of lacquer.

Rub down in between layers if you need to, to get rid of any inperfections that appear but the most important part is make sure wherever you are spraying the plastic in it should be dust free!

1 little speck of dust will fuck up your work and then you have to do it all again Thumbs Up
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PostPosted: 14:05 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

cb1rocket wrote:


its boring and very time consuming!

let us know the results


What he said, it can be a pain in the arse
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Welshd1k
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PostPosted: 14:05 - 27 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

i dont expect perfection its just a seat cowl that will be on for 'now and again'
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The Tot
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PostPosted: 09:34 - 28 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I resprayed my seat cowl and hugger because it got crudded up after a year and half of abuse. It was orginally in honda ross white, so I wanted to touch up any scuffs that couldn't get polished out.

Gave the existing layer a rub down with 800 grit.

Then I went with 4 coats of paint leaving 40 minutes between each coat. Didn't bother sanding in between layers

Left it a day.

Removed the sheen with 1200 grit

Then 3 coats of primer.
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m0l0t0v
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PostPosted: 11:01 - 28 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You primered after you painted? Laughing

Do you mean lacquered?
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**\Tarmacsurfer/** said: It's that immaculately manly coiffure of yours isn't it. One glimpse of your virile locks and the punters can't wait to buy whatever it is you suggest, as it might let them be just a little bit like the Adonis that is our very own Molly Very Happy Doovydoo said: Its not my fault I can't get it up properly, I just wasn't blessed Wink
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salty21
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PostPosted: 18:19 - 28 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

i was just thinking that Laughing
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st3v3
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PostPosted: 18:25 - 28 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did my new NS cowl a while go,

Sanded with 600 paper to remove crap and iffy paint
Sanded with 1100 (wet and dry) to get a smooth mint finish
Cleared of dust etc
Sprayed with eve coat of primer
Dried, (maybe should of sanded a tad too)
Painted with 2 coats of cherry red
Dried, lacquered then polished with T cut. Thumbs Up
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m0l0t0v
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 28 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You polished with t-cut? Neutral

That just doesn't even make sense!
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**\Tarmacsurfer/** said: It's that immaculately manly coiffure of yours isn't it. One glimpse of your virile locks and the punters can't wait to buy whatever it is you suggest, as it might let them be just a little bit like the Adonis that is our very own Molly Very Happy Doovydoo said: Its not my fault I can't get it up properly, I just wasn't blessed Wink
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st3v3
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PostPosted: 23:52 - 28 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

went off this:

Imagine T cut as a extremely fine sandpaper or wet and dry silicon carbide paper. It gently rubs the surface of the paint to smooth out scratches and imperfections.
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m0l0t0v
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PostPosted: 00:36 - 29 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You do know t-cut pretty much dissolves the paint oh so slitghly to spread it around to hide scratches, etc?

T-cut goes nowhere near any of my bikes. At least after i learn't how it worked. Rolling Eyes
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'99 Hornet 600 Sad, VFR 400 NC30 '92 Neutral, Kasawamasaki GT 550 Crying or Very sad, '98 Hornet 600 Mr. Green
**\Tarmacsurfer/** said: It's that immaculately manly coiffure of yours isn't it. One glimpse of your virile locks and the punters can't wait to buy whatever it is you suggest, as it might let them be just a little bit like the Adonis that is our very own Molly Very Happy Doovydoo said: Its not my fault I can't get it up properly, I just wasn't blessed Wink
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Frost
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PostPosted: 00:58 - 29 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty damn sure it doesn't dissolve anything it's just a fine polishing grit.

The skill and results have little to do with the spraying of the paint or lacquer, and a hell of alot to do with the prep of the surface.

Once the surface is primed and the primer is perfectly flat hardly any paint is required to color it. If your using alot of color chances are you've not done enough prep and the finish will be dubious no matter what. Lacquer should be sprayed untill it's a continuous coat rather than just speckles, and re-coated in about 20 minutes, no more or less.

Oily fingers are a definite no, as is water.
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st3v3
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PostPosted: 03:51 - 29 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

m0l0t0v wrote:
You do know t-cut pretty much dissolves the paint oh so slitghly to spread it around to hide scratches, etc?

T-cut goes nowhere near any of my bikes. At least after i learn't how it worked. Rolling Eyes
Surely it merely takes a fraction'th of a mm off the lacquer to get rid of the visible scratches?

If that's the case, it's still works does it not? Thumbs Up
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 11:07 - 29 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

m0l0t0v wrote:
You do know t-cut pretty much dissolves the paint oh so slitghly to spread it around to hide scratches, etc?

T-cut goes nowhere near any of my bikes. At least after i learn't how it worked. Rolling Eyes


If it did that it'd ruin the paint.
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m0l0t0v
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 29 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok when i said dissolve i didn't mean it dissolves fully. It's like a very weak dissolvant. Can't fully explain it but i'm sure craig would agree with me in not using it. :p
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'99 Hornet 600 Sad, VFR 400 NC30 '92 Neutral, Kasawamasaki GT 550 Crying or Very sad, '98 Hornet 600 Mr. Green
**\Tarmacsurfer/** said: It's that immaculately manly coiffure of yours isn't it. One glimpse of your virile locks and the punters can't wait to buy whatever it is you suggest, as it might let them be just a little bit like the Adonis that is our very own Molly Very Happy Doovydoo said: Its not my fault I can't get it up properly, I just wasn't blessed Wink
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 29 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

AAAARRRRRGGHHHHH!!!

FFS! Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked

All of you! JUST SHUT UP!



Good fucking grief.... Rolling Eyes
Edit: except Molotov, at least he knows what product is crap & not to be allowed near paint,
.. but the rest of you.... A litany of misinformation & outright bulshit... Rolling Eyes
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 21:33 - 29 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
AAAARRRRRGGHHHHH!!!

FFS! Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked

All of you! JUST SHUT UP!



Good fucking grief.... Rolling Eyes
Edit: except Molotov, at least he knows what product is crap & not to be allowed near paint,
.. but the rest of you.... A litany of misinformation & outright bulshit... Rolling Eyes


Wow! What a helpful post Rolling Eyes

You moan about everything already posted, and don't post anything useful yourself.
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tutton
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 29 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

go zrx61 you mega tyrant!
basically what he is getting at is using tcut is known in the body trade like rubbing sand and grit into the bodywork, its wyy too harsh especially for fresh paint!
Use G3. then g10 then a wax for a good polish up after paint has set..
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 23:04 - 29 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

tutton wrote:
go zrx61 you mega tyrant!
basically what he is getting at is using tcut is known in the body trade like rubbing sand and grit into the bodywork, its wyy too harsh especially for fresh paint!
Use G3. then g10 then a wax for a good polish up after paint has set..


Well, that was part of it....

We also have people saying use "fine" wet & dry....

Fine compared to what exactly?

Then we have people saying use 600 or even 1100 wet & dry.. ..
which is great of you want to be able to peel the paint off after it dries.... Rolling Eyes

Then people saying how many coats to use of primer.... You don't know what the part looks like so he may be able to get away with one coat.. or even none at all....
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tutton
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PostPosted: 23:07 - 29 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, for the purpose of making tyrant happy.
Surface prep,
Either scuff up with a grey scotch for paint or red scotch for primer.
if using paper/DA id go 180-240, after all it needs a good surface key to hold paint on remember.


When polishing after painting,
If flatting with a DA use 1500 disc dry, then a 3m trizact disc (makes alot of difference imho)
If flatting by hand use 2000 grit (wet and dry, using wet obv), making sure you dont leave any finger marks in it, go much rougher and youll be putting marks into the paint and not gettin the shine you should be.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 23:13 - 29 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

tutton wrote:
Ok, for the purpose of making tyrant happy.

if using paper/DA id go 180-240, after all it needs a good surface key to hold paint on remember.


180-240 before primer...

400 wet before paint...

Or just go 180/240 then 400 before primer
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tutton
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PostPosted: 23:15 - 29 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Different everywhere tho,
Back at the old bodyshop we used to go for prepainted parts gettin a spray a quick whip over with 800 Wet and dry,
then a blow off, degrease and touch up with a thou disc in booth if needed and was fine. Meh, been a while as well mate been out of it 2 or so years Laughing
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st3v3
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PostPosted: 04:57 - 30 May 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
AAAARRRRRGGHHHHH!!!

FFS! Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked

All of you! JUST SHUT UP!



Good fucking grief.... Rolling Eyes
Edit: except Molotov, at least he knows what product is crap & not to be allowed near paint,
.. but the rest of you.... A litany of misinformation & outright bulshit... Rolling Eyes
Wooooah easy old man, don't get ya knickers in too tighta-twist now. Neutral

ZRX61 wrote:
tutton wrote:
go zrx61 you mega tyrant!
basically what he is getting at is using tcut is known in the body trade like rubbing sand and grit into the bodywork, its wyy too harsh especially for fresh paint!
Use G3. then g10 then a wax for a good polish up after paint has set..


Well, that was part of it....

We also have people saying use "fine" wet & dry....

Fine compared to what exactly?

Then we have people saying use 600 or even 1100 wet & dry.. ..
which is great of you want to be able to peel the paint off after it dries.... Rolling Eyes

Then people saying how many coats to use of primer.... You don't know what the part looks like so he may be able to get away with one coat.. or even none at all....
I think you're refering to 'me', and my post was based on practice & success of painting my own fairings, of which I can post pics showing what brilliant-a-finish I have in respect of what I'd aimed for.

Wink
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