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RXS fork springs

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Carvel
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Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 23:57 - 05 Jul 2010    Post subject: RXS fork springs Reply with quote
Just a quickie, does anyone (cows) know if and if so where I can get a new set of fork springs for my RXS as it's all getting a bit soft upfront Shifty.

ta

Ollie.
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2002 Aprilia RSV1000R, Cbr600Fs, Mk1 B12, Vfr400 NC30...

Matt B: I can deal with crushed nuts to beat Ollie.
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Paddy Blake
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Joined: 29 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: 01:42 - 06 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
You will find it here.
https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/
Type in what the bike is called in the log log book.
If you cant get them then put some spacers in.
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27cows
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PostPosted: 06:00 - 06 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
Far as I know it's not possible to buy replacement springs for the RXS, other than ordering via a Yam dealer to have them sent from Japan (and they'd be ridiculously expensive).

It's more likely you just need to change the oil. Standard RXS forks are a bit slack at the best of times. They have short springs and long spacers. I replaced mine with longer springs and did away with the spacers. Not sure if they were standard but the ones I used came out of a crashed RD125 twin and are a large improvement over the originals.

If you do change the oil, would recommend using 20w.

Be warned - getting the RXS fork tops undone can be a challenging experience, to say the least Shocked
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Carvel
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 06 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
Cheers for the reply Paddy. They dont have any unfortunatly.
Didn't think of spacers might try that. Thumbs Up
Quote:
Far as I know it's not possible to buy replacement springs for the RXS, other than ordering via a Yam dealer to have them sent from Japan (and they'd be ridiculously expensive).

Bugger.

Im in the process of changing my fork seals atm (Fork tops came off easier than expected Cool ). Stripped one of the forks down and the seals and top of the fork leg were corroded to fuck. Took a fookin age to get the old seal out and it was a right biatch getting the new one in. Are they meant to be that hard to put in? Im a bit worried they're just going to leak again. We'll have to wait and see

Quote:
would recommend using 20w.

Cheers for tip, I was thinking of putting a thicker oil in.

Also I snapped two of the mudguard bolts off
Arse, I hate drilling bolts out.
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Matt B: I can deal with crushed nuts to beat Ollie.
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27cows
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PostPosted: 18:25 - 06 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
Fork seals can be a total bastard to get out if the white corrosion has set in and bubbled the lacquer. Ideally you should carefully sand out the seal seat before drifting the new ones in with a (think I use a 30mm) socket. But I doubt the new ones will leak - they're pretty tough.

It's extremely common for the mudguard bolts to seize in. Sometimes attempting to get them undone results in the whole thread part of the fork breaking away. I always use stainless socket caps, with washers, and the threads coated with copper grease to overcome the problem:

https://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc223/Funkdooby_album/Dscf0532.jpg
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Carvel
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PostPosted: 19:22 - 06 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
27cows wrote:
Ideally you should carefully sand out the seal seat before drifting the new ones in with a (think I use a 30mm) socket.

Thats exactly what I did.
The left hand fork was rusty and was a bastard to get the seal in and out of. but the right hand fork was absolutly fine.
Quote:
It's extremely common for the mudguard bolts to seize in. Sometimes attempting to get them undone results in the whole thread part of the fork breaking away. I always use stainless socket caps, with washers, and the threads coated with copper grease to overcome the problem.

Cheers for that I'll give some of those a try.

Much appreciated Thumbs Up
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2002 Aprilia RSV1000R, Cbr600Fs, Mk1 B12, Vfr400 NC30...

Matt B: I can deal with crushed nuts to beat Ollie.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 16 years, 93 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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