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Brake Pad Replacement: Is it really that tricky?

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flamegrape
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Joined: 28 Apr 2010
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 06 Jul 2010    Post subject: Brake Pad Replacement: Is it really that tricky? Reply with quote
I want to change my front and rear brake pads but as I browse The Workshop here I see lots of posts with people experiencing problems with callipers, brakes not bleeding, pistons seizing, low or no pressure...

...is it really that tricky to change brake pads or am I being overly paranoid?
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Barry_M2
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Joined: 09 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 15:52 - 06 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
Changing the pads is simple. You dont need to do anything with the fluid other than possibly top it up a little.
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Bendy
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Joined: 10 Jun 2002
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PostPosted: 15:52 - 06 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
It's piss easy if everything's working ok.
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DrDonnyBrago
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Joined: 03 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 06 Jul 2010    Post subject: Re: Brake Pad Replacement: Is it really that tricky? Reply with quote
jonny2010 wrote:
I want to change my front and rear brake pads but as I browse The Workshop here I see lots of posts with people experiencing problems with callipers, brakes not bleeding, pistons seizing, low or no pressure...

...is it really that tricky to change brake pads or am I being overly paranoid?


It's easy, no reason to be paranoid.

Only thing I would suggest is that you buy a can of spray brake cleaner and clean your pistons properly using that and a soft toothbrush (tesco value 2 for 10p Thumbs Up ) before installing the new pads. Pump the pistons out a little bit, but not so much they fall out and work your way round until everything is clean.

As the new pads are thicker than the old ones, the pistons will be pushed further into the caliper meaning that all the grot and crap on the piston will get past seals - this can damage the seals causing leaks.

There is no need to bleed anything or go anywhere near the fluid though Mr. Green .


EDIT: Whilst you are in there, take some time to copper grease the pad pins and backs of the pads too. The pad pins on some calipers seize pretty easily - copper grease is great for preventing this, especially in high heat applications such as brake calipers.
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ms51ves3
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Joined: 08 Jun 2007
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PostPosted: 17:13 - 06 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
Barry_M2 wrote:
Changing the pads is simple. You dont need to do anything with the fluid other than possibly top it up a little.


Unless the pads you are fitting are thinner than the ones you are taking out (which obviously they shouldn't be) then you won't need to top the system up with fluid. You may need to remove some from the reservoir.
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Frost
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Joined: 26 May 2004
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 06 Jul 2010    Post subject: Re: Brake Pad Replacement: Is it really that tricky? Reply with quote
Pads are held in with pins, these can seize up a bit, but i've never had any problems with that.

DonnyBrago wrote:
As the new pads are thicker than the old ones, the pistons will be pushed further into the caliper meaning that all the grot and crap on the piston will get past seals - this can damage the seals causing leaks.

There is no need to bleed anything or go anywhere near the fluid though Mr. Green


As said above pushing the pistons back in might be hard depending on how tight they are. Though there is an easy way:

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/pads.gif

Get 2 screw drivers at angles so that each touches both pistons. Pushing them apart will then lever the pistons back evenly and with a great deal of pressure. I've yet to find pistons that won't move using this method

Clean them first to avoid fucking the seals, and watch out for any fluid leaks.

The brake fluid cap should be removed and you should keep a constant eye on the level. Pushing the pistons in will fill up the reservoir which might overflow and brake fluid is like paint stripper!

Knackered seals, fucked pistons etc required bleeding, which is a right pain if your new to it. Laughing
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flamegrape
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Joined: 28 Apr 2010
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 06 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
You all make it sound so easy Laughing
I'll hopefully get this done this weekend.
Hopefully I'll be back on here with a Thumbs Up and not a Thumbs Down

Thanks for the info!! Smile
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Whosthedaddy
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Joined: 11 Dec 2005
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 06 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
Bendy wrote:
It's piss easy if everything's working ok.


The brakes on the TRX were a joy to bleed and replace pads on (Blue spot R6) but the ones on the FZR were stuck and all seals knackered, blocked nipples and generally shite! Spent a trip on a flat bed and £170 later to get sorted. Found out that they weren;t even the brakes for the bike and took longer to find the correct seals for them!
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Noxious89123
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Joined: 10 Jun 2007
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 06 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
When pushing pistons back, I prefer to use a piece of wood and my hands.

Metal tools near pistons = Exclamation It is very important that you do not scratch or damage the sliding surface of th brake pistons.

But as said, changing pads is a piece of cake. I changed my own hoses and bled my brakes and even that was very easy. (And whilst I'm not a complete novice, I am purely self-taught).
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DrDonnyBrago
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Joined: 03 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 11:56 - 07 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote
Noxious89123 wrote:
When pushing pistons back, I prefer to use a piece of wood and my hands.


Yeah same, can see myself scoring the pistons if I used anything metal.

Either use your thumbs, a piece of wood or leave the old pads in place and lever against them - anything to prevent damage to the pistons themselves as they aren't cheap Thumbs Up .
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 15 years, 339 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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