Works for a couple of weeks then dies

[chuffzilla]

Had some starting issues with my bike recently (Suzuki GZ125)

To begin with the starting seemed a little sluggish and the motor seemed a little slow turning when firing up. Eventually the solenoid started clicking when I tried to start it and then pretty much nothing.

I replaced the battery and everything was fine for about a month but then the same issue started up again.

replaced a few more bits (starter motor, reg/rec and the oil) but it hasn't really made much of a difference.
I have checked the battery and it seems to be giving about 13.8V but I am not really sure how much power it has.

Not sure what to check next really,
my gut feeling is it is either an issue with a power drain somewhere in the wiring or the stator is knackered.

anyone have any idea what it could be?

[stonesie]

What type of battery is it? Maintenance free or normal?

If it has a cap on each cell then check the water level (Electrolyte/acid, Top Up with De-ionised water from your local motorfactor if required)

The next test is a 'Drop test' .... Noooo, Don't drop it on the floor

Leave the multi meter/volt gauge attached to the battery and try the starter while looking at the voltage display, a good battery should not drop below 10v, if it does then it has a damaged cell and that warranty you got with it will come in handy

If it is charging at 13.8v then the generator is working, set your MutleyMeter to Amps (highest range first) and disconnect the battery +ve.
With the ignition OFF connect the multimeter +ve to the battery and -ve to the bikes +ve connector this will tell you how much drain there is on the battery and you can go through the fusebox to track down which circuit is causing it.

[fiery tupp]

Yeh , got same bike k6 though ive had no electrical probs I dont like the fact that you can't turn lights off . I very rarely do less than 30 up to 50 miles on any day that I ride it wich is most days , so maybe if you're doing very low mileage or stopping & starting often could have a bit to do with it I dont know ? I think the advice given by stonesie sounds good . Also if it was me I might be tempted to put it on a trickle charger once or twice a week . But you still need to get to the bottom of the prob so good luck with it ...R
____________________
If you can't fix it with a hammer , use your head .

[skatefreak]

Yep,
Sproket is onto something there.
I had no end of trouble with my 4t 125 crossery bike when i started because i was making lots of short journeys to build up experience slowly...
The battery was forever needing charging and confused the heck out of me untill i went for a ride with my old CBT instructor so got some small import scooters which said they had to do at least 10-15 miles or something to put back the charge from starting...

Plasable in your situation?

-Jvr

[chuffzilla]

I moved house about a year ago and am now only a couple of miles from work so most of my trips last less than 20 mins (5 miles).

odd though that I had no problems for about 6 months and it was only when I replaced the battery that things started to struggle.

I ran down the battery last night and put it on a trickle charge but still could not get it to start this morning.

I will have a play about with the wiring over the weekend and see if I can find any vampires sucking any juice.

is there a procedure for bedding in new batteries then?
should I be planning lots of long trips or should I just be getting off my arse more an cycling to work rather than sitting on the bike?

thanks for the advice so far.

[chuffzilla]

batt is a dynavolt maintenance free type,
got it mail order so had to put in the acid first then charge it up on a trickle charge.

[chuffzilla]

Ok drop test done

with ignition off i get about 15V from the batt
ignition on and lights off i get about the same
lights on I get about 13
but when I try to start the voltage drops right down to 0.3 - 1.5

I think it is safe to say that the battery is probably toast even though it is less than a couple of months old.

I have tried draining it down and charging it up at but even when (apparently) fully charged it can't keep the headlight on full beam for more than 10 mins)

Ok so lesson learned, lots of short trips turn my battery into expensive paperweights, but can it be rescued? and does anyone think this is the root of the problem or could it be something else?

my charger is a numax 12V 2A bike charger https://www.brooksbarn.co.uk/NUMAX-BATTERY-CHARGER_ARSIZ.aspx

[forx]

probably worth getting an optimate 3 or 4,bout £35 on flebay to keep the bat in good condition.
only other thing that springs to mind,n i dont KNOW the bike model at all,is perhaps the valves need adjusting ala a service is due?.
have no experince of small bikes but my trident 900 had much the same thing and on the trumpet forums they diagnosed it needed shimming as they are famous for valves tightening up and causing same symptons as you have.
hope its some help.

[Fortuna]

Sounds like you may have a problem with the generator coil. I'm not sure if the lights are the same circuit (a lot of small bikes use a seperate coil for lights).
An ohmage check may tell you if the windings are ok, but isn't always accurate (can't detect breakdown etc).
If you've changed the reg/rec for a known working one or new one and it's the second battery you are on then I would err the side of generator.
You can test the voltage ouput if you are careful, but it's the amps that are more critical.

[fiery tupp]

I dont think that the low milage you are doing is the main problem though after reading what you are doing , it should be enough to keep a good battery charged , though a good run now & again will do it good , You should check for any bad connections clean & spray with wd40, the first being the main earth lead at the back of motor , then rectifier & coil ect ... ... R
____________________
If you can't fix it with a hammer , use your head .