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Heated grips

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timboellis
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PostPosted: 17:17 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Heated grips Reply with quote

As never had them before do they draw a lot of power or not and do i just use them when i really need to or they okay to be on most of the time
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 17:25 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Not a massive amount of power. Most seem to use a 3amp fuse. Should be fine to leave on most of the time.

I would suggest wiring them up using a relay taking power directly from the battery and using a switched power feed to trigger the relay (for example the rear brake light switch feed).

All the best

Keith
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been checking the specs I can fnd to get some for Snowie.
Oxford sportgrips claim to draw 4a max, means they are about 50w. So draw about as much juice as a head-lamp bulb.
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flumpy7
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PostPosted: 17:33 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Couple of variables. What type of grips do you want? What type of bike have you got?

IMO not worth it on a very small bike due to risk of overloading the battery. You certainly wouldnt wanna leave them on all the time. For a small bike i would just get some handlebar muffs/guards, some thermal inner gloves and some decent winter gloves.

For a bigger bike deffo recommend them, iwouldnt be without my oxford wrap-around grips. These are handy cause they literally just wrap around the bars and can easily be removed (in seconds) when you dont need them. I use them in conjunction with handlebar muffs to protect the outside of my hands = TOASTY. Dont look very Cool though.

You can also get more permanent grips that take a bit of fiddling to install tidily, but once installed they are the biz and you can just activate/deactivate them when needed via a switch stuck somewhere on your dash/bars/yoke. Cant see why you would want to leave them 'on' all the time, would be unbearable in summer Laughing .
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timboellis
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PostPosted: 18:14 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well the bike i am picking up the morrow has them, so just curious

will be on the Triumph Trophy, so i so not flatten the battery etc,.
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kingsknight
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PostPosted: 18:15 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
IMO not worth it on a very small bike due to risk of overloading the battery



That's rubbish! I'v known loads of people to have them on their 125's and had no problems what so ever! The size of the engine doesn't really matter as all the power is controlled by the regulator! 12v is 12v no matter what bike you are riding!
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 18:16 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got a set of these:

Clicky

Not fitted them yet, but will do over the weekend.
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 18:34 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

kingsknight wrote:
Quote:
IMO not worth it on a very small bike due to risk of overloading the battery



That's rubbish! I'v known loads of people to have them on their 125's and had no problems what so ever! The size of the engine doesn't really matter as all the power is controlled by the regulator! 12v is 12v no matter what bike you are riding!


whilst broadly true, some bikes have ac lights and a piddly batt and charging system to suit. .... as a general rule of thumb, I'd say if the bike is electric start, then you are good to go Thumbs Up
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flumpy7
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

kingsknight wrote:
Quote:
IMO not worth it on a very small bike due to risk of overloading the battery



That's rubbish! I'v known loads of people to have them on their 125's and had no problems what so ever! The size of the engine doesn't really matter as all the power is controlled by the regulator! 12v is 12v no matter what bike you are riding!


Yup technically correct, but the fact is that small motorcycles are generally subject to more wear and tear, less stringent maintainance and are abused more. I have a125 that i use just for pootling around town and commuting.....it cost me £300....am i gonna spend £50 on a new battery when the old one just about works?.....hell no. If the charging system is getting tired, will i replace expensive parts while i can still kick it over or even use the electric starter as long as i have the bike connected to my optimiser overnight? Hell no. Of course, if you have a 125 that is as good as the day it chugged off the forecourt then yes, heated grips will work perfectly well.
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guitarcarfana...
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PostPosted: 18:47 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ms51ves3 wrote:
I got a set of these:

Clicky

Not fitted them yet, but will do over the weekend.


I've got a pair of these. Havent risked them on the CG yet as the power at idle is pretty crap as it is.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 18:49 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

kingsknight wrote:
12v is 12v no matter what bike you are riding!


How many amps the bike can supply is the important bit. Smaller bikes tend to have charging systems that can supply far less watts. For example think a Mito 125 can supply about 120 watts which is a fairly limited amount, while ~200 watts isn't unusual on larger bikes.

All the best

Keith
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Tonka
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PostPosted: 19:42 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ms51ves3 wrote:
I got a set of these:

Clicky

Not fitted them yet, but will do over the weekend.


I have those on the Serow and they are great, as I can wear thinner gloves and not get too cold and also when the gloves get wet they dry out on the grips!!

I've just had the Oxford Sportbike grips put on the SV - top banana!! Thumbs Up

Both sets are wired to the ignition, so I can't risk leaving them on by accident - excellent and I'd thoroughly recommend.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 20:15 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

We're plotting to fit heated grips to Snowies CB125.

Bikes, in general have much smaller generators than cars, & littler ones often pathetically so. Snowies CB125 Super-Dream is actually quite well endowed for a 125, it has a 150W alternator. Many dont even make 100. But that's its 'peak' power rating, at low engine speeds, it'll be making significantly less juice.

Did some sums for Snowies bike, the other night. The highest load scenario is sat at a junction, in neutral, engine idling, brake covered, tail lamp on, indicators on, headlamps on dipped. On snowies bike, that adds up as follows:-
3.4W = Indicator Neutral lamp
21w = Stop Lamp
5w = Tail Lamp
4w = Side light
40w = dipped beam
6.8w = instrument illumination
24w = Indicator lamps (half time)
3.4W = indicator tell-tail (half time)
Totals up to 94W, while the generator might only be knocking out 30w or so, putting quite a hefty drain on the battery. Though, I was rather aghast to realise that the back-lighting for the clocks draws more juice than the tail-lamp!

Anyway, on a little bike, there are a lot of things working against you, becouse most 125's are all year round commuters, hacking daily accross town in all weathers.

Means that they're much more likely to spend much more of thier time, sat at junctions, or coasting to them, the generator not delivering maximum power, but with indicators and lamps drawing a lot of it, a lot of the time, especially if using headlamps permenenantly for conspicuity. And in that kind of use, they wont be getting much chance for sustained speed to recharge the battery, which will be a small one to begin with, and if its an electric start bike, and used for short hops, theres a good chance that the generator will never quite manage to keep up and keep the battery charged.

Again, bikes have small batteries, to save weight, and smaller bikes have smaller batteries still, and lead acid batteries do not like being heavily and repeatedly discharged and recharged, why bike batteries tend not to last as well as car batteries, but also explains why a small commuter bike battery is likely to go 'weak' very quick!

Heated Grips, in my book are a very useful thing, and on an all year commuter, more than a luxuary, and, keeping minds from numbing pain, and feeling in the fingers, can make riding in the colder whether when you need most wits about you a darn sight safer.

And I dont see ANY reason why small bikes shouldn't warrant them. Bottom line, a 125 can often still do the national speed limit, and are as much a propper bike as a 1000cc bruiser, just 'cos most have L-Plates on them, dont make them a 'toy'.

But, that power consumption is a concern. Battery in snowies CB125 is a 9Ah capacity. That will deliver 9a for one hour, continious draw. So a 4a pair of heated grips would, without any other load on it, (or any recharge), flatten a fully charged one in a little over two hours.

Most of the electrical power consumption is drawn by the lights, and a pair of heated grips on a 125 is almost as much as the lights draw on top, and there isn't really that much spare electrical power to play with.

BUT, depending on the way the bike is used, it could be maneagable.

If the journey times are longer, and have more main road work, and higher speed sections to give the battery a chance to recover, then theres a good chance that the system could cope.

If side-lights are used for daylight running, instead of dipped beam, that would help, but not a practical option if you are commuting in the dark, or bad weather..... when you really want heated grips!

So, for Snowie, who also wants to uprate the lighting on her bike, and power her sat-nav, as well as have heated grips, been looking at how we can make the most of the power we got, and a big part of the solution looks like its going to be LED lamps.

Found some LED bulbs to replace the back-light and idiot lamp bulbs. Load is only o.1w a bulb!
Just that change frees up a significant amount of watts, putting less drain on the battery, and aiding recharge time.

Going the whole-hog, replacing all the bulbs bar the headlamp, and fitting an electronic flasher unit, that also saps less power, drops the combined total for the earlier scenario down to around 40w! Less than half the power draw, and not much more than what the genny is likely to be chucking out. Its almost like doubling the generator output!

That should be plenty to compensate for the added load of heated grips! But it isn't cheap.

And while this may be irrelevent for bigger bikes with bigger generators, actually, it MAY be worth some thought.

CB750 doesn't exactly have a small generator, but with a twin head-lamp conversion sucking 100w of power instead of 45w.... the margins are getting close. And on more modern bikes, with electronic brains, and low consumption LED lighting already fitted, the margins might be a lot closer, and there may be less scope to make savings. So its still a worth while question to ask.
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MinhDinh
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PostPosted: 20:20 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon Mike sure does like to type in detail Smile

I have just ebayed a pair of HotGrips. The cold is coming and they were OK on the RS apart from they would turn off if I didn't rev enough.

The 636 should hopefully have enoguh power to be on all the time.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:

Found some LED bulbs to replace the back-light and idiot lamp bulbs. Load is only o.1w a bulb!
Just that change frees up a significant amount of watts, putting less drain on the battery, and aiding recharge time.


Remember that LEDs are directional, hence you get far less spread of light. While a normal tail light bulbs will give a decent glow all around the back, an LED tail light bulb will likely give you a half decent glow in the middle viewable from behind but a glow that is poor visible from other angles.

Also as I understand it they are technically illegal under some very old laws.

All the best

Keith
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Pernig
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

ms51ves3 wrote:
I got a set of these:

Clicky


Also got a pair of these waiting to be fitted. Will be interested to hear your verdict. Thumbs Up
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

rob yarrr wrote:

mike you wouldn't know if the cg gives out the same amount as a cb or more would you?


I would suspect substantially less for any of the older non electric start CGs. Does the CG headlight even run off DC rather than directly off AC from the generator?

All the best

Keith
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Pernig
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PostPosted: 20:49 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

rob yarrr wrote:
fml its straight off the crappy generater

not much good from the battery either as thats the size of 2 rubix cubes


6 volts as well right? Had the same conundrum with my H100.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Remember that LEDs are directional, hence you get far less spread of light. While a normal tail light bulbs will give a decent glow all around the back, an LED tail light bulb will likely give you a half decent glow in the middle viewable from behind but a glow that is poor visible from other angles.

Yup.
Not so much of a problem using Bulb substitution LED arrays, in conventional reflector/lense units.
Flush-fit type LED replacements suffer more from directionality.
Kickstart wrote:
Also as I understand it they are technically illegal under some very old laws.

As far as I have gleaned, its an 'interpretation' of what is meant by a 'filliment' and mainly concerns head-lamps. Think that PIR lighting has similar shortfall in ot having a conventional wire filliment.
And its under C&U regs, and possibly superceded by an EU ammendment.
Bottom line is, that its a grey area, BUT provided they work within the required perameters, they cant fail an MOT, as they aren't allowed to remove the lenses to see whats behind them! (like fork gaiters!)
rob yarrr wrote:
my LED tail light is very bright indeed
mike you wouldn't know if the cg gives out the same amount as a cb or more would you?

I dont. should be in the manual, but last three times I tried down loading one for the Cg it kept corrupting or crashing on me, so I dont have it!
I doubt the CG has the same genny though. CB was quite significantly over specified, & was an expensive 125 when new. CG was aleays built down to a price.
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hijack time.

Soooo, anyone got a spare control unit for some heated grips.
e.g. wires from battery, control box and buttons and output wires?
I have heated grips on my bike but the control unit is buggered.
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 21:10 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Artist wrote:
Hijack time.

Soooo, anyone got a spare control unit for some heated grips.
e.g. wires from battery, control box and buttons and output wires?
I have heated grips on my bike but the control unit is buggered.


Can you not just by pass it and wire in an on/off switch?
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 21:10 - 10 Nov 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:

Not so much of a problem using Bulb substitution LED arrays, in conventional reflector/lense units.


It is the conventional bulb replacement ones I was talking about. Follow one and you can clearly see the circle of the "bulb" as next to nothing is striking the reflector to confuse things. The LEDs need to be pointing in all directions to work.

Teflon-Mike wrote:
As far as I have gleaned, its an 'interpretation' of what is meant by a 'filliment' and mainly concerns head-lamps. Think that PIR lighting has similar shortfall in ot having a conventional wire filliment.
And its under C&U regs, and possibly superceded by an EU ammendment.


Likely superseded by EU rules for new vehicles, as UK C&U rules cannot prevent the sale of a vehicle homologated for European sale. However that probably doesn't apply to replacement parts on old vehicles which are still covered by old C&U rules.

All the best

Keith
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