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back wheel keeps locking

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TUG
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: back wheel keeps locking Reply with quote

I have a slipper clutch on the VTR so it shouldnt lock up heres the situation.

1st gear, power on till about 7000rpm (9500rpm redline begins)
shut off and i lose all power, bikes in a cut out state and the back end is hopping and skipping everywhere.

My engine is noisey (ticking alot) but has good compression as it locks up with the battery charged when hot.
Ive fitted manual cam chain tensioners also but its done nothing.
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Barry_M2
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PostPosted: 14:47 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your slipper clutch wont 'slip' by just shutting the power off, you need to be changing down a gear and let the clutch out for it to work. As from your post above it sounds like you're just closing the throttle off!?

Manual cam chain tensioner has nothing to do with the drive to the engine (well, other than keeping the cam chain at the right tension!) and will not affect the operation of the clutch at all.

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TUG
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PostPosted: 14:51 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just pulled my front pot's plug off and it will run with a bit of revs and i saw the HT lead leaking a spark to the frame at the coil end, possibly this is why my bike keeps cutting out?
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 15:22 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

TUG wrote:
I just pulled my front pot's plug off and it will run with a bit of revs and i saw the HT lead leaking a spark to the frame at the coil end, possibly this is why my bike keeps cutting out?


Would produce a weak spark within the cylinder, effectively like hitting the kill switch on that cylinder, and seeing as you only have 2 i expect this would have a big impact on forward drive!
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TUG
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ordered some silicone HT leads, but Why is it cutting out on me, it doesnt make sense what am i missing?
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 15:59 - 05 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

weak spark might not be strong enough to ignite the fuel/air vapour within the cylinder, and only having 2 they rely on eachother to keep the bike running.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 16:33 - 07 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The leaking spark is at the coil, if i remove the ht lead from earth (engine or plug) it leaks on to the frame, i am assuming this is not normal? i've got new HT lead some silicone one in nice red lol.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 07 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

TUG wrote:
The leaking spark is at the coil, if i remove the ht lead from earth (engine or plug) it leaks on to the frame, i am assuming this is not normal? i've got new HT lead some silicone one in nice red lol.


with the HT Lead disconected at one end or other, yes, you are likely to get arcing at the coil end! Coil is sill being energised and has a heck of a lot of volts on it when its trickkered to spark at the plug, if the electric cant jump the gap from the spark-plug electrode to ground, then it will take whatever the line of least resistance is.

If thats from the HT-Lead socket to the frame, then sounds like you have a pretty beefy ignition!

BUT with the plug removed, its no indication of a 'fault', just that you have disconnected the HT lead!

As for the hitting 7K bit, not sure what you are saying?

Are YOU shutting off at 7K, or is the engine actually cutting out?

If its cutting out, how? Is it machine-gunning, cutting in and out at 7K or does it just go dead like hitting the kill switch?

VTR is injected, if I remember right. Three things spring to mind, EFi Fault, Ignition fault, or tacho/rev limiter fault.

HAS the bike been 'chipped' by any chance?
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TUG
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PostPosted: 00:43 - 08 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its carbed. Wink and cuts out like its hitting a brick wall hence the locking hte back wheel, if it was gunning i'd be ok, i was afraid you was gunna say the plug thing was normal.

Looks like i best start searching every electrical connection and checl the kill and side stand switch.
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