stood for 8 years

[nightshaddow]

i am getting a bike that has been stood for at least 8 years (pick it up in the next week or so)

other than the obvious tyres bushes brake lines to check what should i check for in the engine

the bike is a 86 tzr 125 not sure on model though
____________________
"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews )

[Ingah]

New oil and plugs?

Or are you talking about a non-runner/seized engine etc?

Either way, i'd expect all seals and rubbers to be less than healthy.
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-- Ingah

[Pete.]

Stood inside or outside? If outside and not covered up expect everything in the carb to be stuck solid. I bought one which was stood 7 years and everythign was siezed in the - even the float needles. I did get it all working through patiently soaking it all in thiiners or acetone (nail polish remover). Took me a whole weekend to fix up a bank of four carbs.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Kickstart]

Hi

Difficult to know. Could have rusted through the petrol tank. Could be fine with little effort.

Tyres age and harden, but how much depends on how they have been stored (UV light seems to be bad for them). Wheel bearings often seem to fail not long after a long standing bike is brought back into use. Chain might be OK or might be a rusted mess depending on how it was before being stored. Forks might well have pitted. Etc.

Engine wise I would be tempted to whip off the carb and intake and dribble a bit of 2 stroke oil onto the bearings (mains and big end, doubt you can get at the little end) and turn the crank by hand a bit before reassembling it to start it up for the first time.

If it is a TZR125 of that age (think they only started to come into the UK in 1987) then it will be a steel frames ones with a drum rear brake and 16" front wheel.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[nightshaddow]

good place to start, not much sure on the history. i has been stored in a garage for around 8 years and its free, i am not shy on hard work and willing and able to take my time with it,

it is registered E plate though has the 3 spoke wheels and rear disc (suspect upgraded at some point in the past)

i will know more soon
____________________
"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews )

[Kickstart]

Hi

An e plate would make it a 1987/88 model and it should have the drum rear. Standard colours would have been blue with light blue and yellow or white with red. Upgrading to the later wheels and disk rear brake would need quite a lot of changes

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[nightshaddow]

i had the 89 f plate which had the drum rear about 9 years ago looks like the bike has had a repaint (or at least the decals) it the same paint as my white and red one but the red is pink (will definatly be changed)

when did they change from the early drum to the later disc
____________________
"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews )

[Kickstart]

Hi

Not sure (and the autodata book lists the same wheels from 1987 to 1993). Going from an old catalog the brakes changed from 1990.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Jamie S]

I'd be concerned about the crank seals, probably find they have perished being stood that long.
Jamie

[nightshaddow]

well a good place to start, after looking around on the net i see alot of good place's for some parts and not to expensive either,

can anyone recomend some good places for older bikes as i see some things are not listed like exhausts etc
____________________
"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews )

[Gazdaman]

I'd probably get some oil down the bores and seeing if it turns over slowly before trying to fire it up.

Obviously change all fluids, probably tyres. Might find some of the seals have perished/hardened.

Depends what you want from the bike. If it's a project anyway then just strip it down from the word go. If you want it to ride, then I'd take medium precautions to make ure you don't kill it the first time you try to start it up and get a piston in the face.

Gaz

[Teflon-Mike]

Any bike, order of precedence of checks should be:-
- Sticky (tyres)
- Stoppie (Brakes)
- Steerie (Steering)
- Springie (Suspension)
Engines don't matter... all they do is shove you along.... before you get shoved along, you need to be sure you can STOP being shoved along, and if you are bing shoved along, you go in the direction you need to be going.
Tyres are tyres, going over stuff, not much you can do with them, apart from check they have air in them, and hold it. They either need replacing or they dont, but probably.
Brakes. Rubber seals and hoses perish, and while they may work 'OK'; if a bikes been stood, a little service can see early failure as they start being worked. So worth a throuogh inspaction amd possible overhaul.
Suspension.... likewise. at the very least, I'd flush the forks and refil with new oil, for ths simple reason that probably wasn't great the last time the bike worked, and best part aof a decade, its going to have gone off, and collected condensation, even if nothing has firred up, siezed or got clogged up. Back end pretty much teh same. Rear shock is sealed not a lot you can do with one apart from replace it. Maybe worth while. They tend to get worked hard, and go off, and layed up, again, could have leaked charge, settled out, and rubber bits likely to 'go' after some use. But swing-arm bushes and linkage, strip, inspect, and atthe very least regrease.
Thats the sticky, stopie and springie taken care off. Leaves head-race bearings in the steerie. Only real bit there is in teh steering! Again, strip, clean, inspect grease and re-assemble, though while in there for teh sake of £20 I'd fit new taper bearings.
THEN you can start thinking about the motor.
First up, dont start trying to start it in a hurry.
TZR is a powe-valve model, and teh first things to check are that the PV isn't siezed, then that the motor isn't siezed. 2ts will tend to stop with thier pistons at BDC and the exhaust port open. Condesnastion & corrosion, will see stuff gummed up, and in that area you have aluminium piston and barel, steel liner, iron rings, and often lots of electroytic corrosion.
So exhaust off, and have a look.
Inspect the exhaust, sat, they'll rust through.
Clean the PV and check the state of piston and rings through the port window, at the vert least. If not popping the top cleaning inspectng & re-assembling.
Change the gear-box oil, that too is probably old and murky with condensation. Flush and refil.
Likewise coolant. May be worth having a look at the water pump, making sure that hasn't firred up, and possibly the oil pump, make sure thats still delivering oil and not cloged or pipes perished.
Carb, remove, strip, clean. Almost certain to be gummed up, and you may want to have a look at the reed-valves too.
Teas-spoon of two-stroke oil down the inlet tract before you put the carb back on to put some lube in the crank-case for the bottom end. another down ths spark-plug hole to lube the bore,
And before you put a new plug in and start prodding trying to start it.....
Work it over for a while, get all that oil into the bearings and bore.
Then, new battery, you can try starting it... but, dont expect too much, and that excess of 2T in the crank-case and bore will take a while to burn off, and may coke the plug before it all goes....
So make sure you get a couple of plugs!
And don't try riding it or putting it under load. Give it a chance to warm up, and get to temperature, and go over the whole bike, looking for anything obviousely untoward, starting with teh exhaust, and any leaks, then the cooling system, and keep an eye on that auto-lube system.
Then you can see how it goes from there, and whether it runs cleanly, and iof theres carburation faults, PV problem, or if its rattling like a london taxi on shot main bearings, or coughing and stuttering from perished primary seals etc....
Thing is, ENGINE is the LAST of the critical systems to worry about, recommissioning an old bike.
Before you 'go' make sure you can stop, and steer!
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[Gazdaman]

I'd say brakes are more important than tyres. I'd rather stop at a set of traffic lights with an under inflated set of tyres than be squashed by a lorry with a brand new BT45 on.

It's all academic anyway, because I'd say that checklist is only really important if you're intending on throwing a leg over it and riding it home.

Gaz

[chris-red]

I'm in the same boat, about to start a '88 RXS100 that has been stood for nearly 5 years. Good luck!
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[Blau Zedong]

[Pete.]

Yes the UK bike came with no powervalve, but you could have one as an option.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Blau Zedong]

[Teflon-Mike]

As I understood it, Original RD-LC had no power-valve in its barel.
Later MKII RD-LC with 16" front wheel, for other markets was sold as the RD125LC 'YPVS' with fully functioning PV in its pot, but for the UK, the 'MKII' got the non power valve barel.
The UK RD-LC MKIII, which I'm not even sure is an official designation, got the YPVS barel, with Power-Valve, but pegged in the closed position. And I thought it was that one, you could order YPVS controller and cables for to 'de-restrict' if you knew the part no's, no official 'kit' being offered.
When the TZR came along, I thought it had the full YPVS motor, with operational PV in it, but for UK restrictions, it had a different controler to open it at a different time, and a different linkage to limit how far it opened... and I thought that there WAS actually a dealer 'de-restriction' kit for it that would swap the limited travel linkage, and controller for the full-power versions, as well as contained the jets for a de-restricted motor, and possibly a couple of other 'bits'. But.... never been THAT into RD's & TZ's, and I know that the 'lore' surrounding them is incredibly erroneousness, and have come accross reports of fully operational PV RD-LC's, and pegged valve TZ's, that may have been official UK bikes or more likley ameteur attempts at de-restriction.
Bottom line, its a 20+ year old Power-Valve bike of dubiouse oragin & history, so its worth checking!
As are the frame & engine no's, given disc-brake conversion.....
May have any number of bits from a later 'crashed' (Or nicked!) TZR, or RD, or DT, or well, who knows with old learner bikes!
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[nightshaddow]

[Beelzebob]

[Teflon-Mike]

[Kickstart]

[Blau Zedong]

The RDZ / mk3 LC (available only in white with blue and yellow trim) used what was basically the engine found in the DT125LC mk3, complete with pegged powervalve. Same as the TZR / DTR lump, if you could find a parts list you could order the parts (at a price) to activate the powervalve. No UK spec bike had an active powervalve when it left the dealer's showroom. The cost of the bits meant most full power ones had the valve rigged fully open (Some spannies came with a plug to do this), giving a powerband the approximate width of a gnat's cock hair.
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18:54:48 Rob Fzs: jews don't give away stuff for free

18:54:59 Rob Fzs: unless its their clothes/ hair/ golden teeth

[Kickstart]