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tuning a single cylinder 4 stroke

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steven_191
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PostPosted: 19:25 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: tuning a single cylinder 4 stroke Reply with quote

im thinking of getting a ktm lc4 640 engine. at 55hp (which is probably enough) i might want a bit more for a project.

my question is, is tuning a single 4stroke engine the same as you would go about tuning a 4cylinder engine?

im hoping to get a bit more power due to the fact i want a 'naked' style and with zero aerodynamics may need some more grunt, depending on the end weight and what its like to ride. which i wont know until i finish.

also the ktm engine apparently vibrates alot. am i wrong in thinking a well sorted balance shaft should sort that out??
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Frost
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PostPosted: 19:53 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's different in that the gearing tends to use the engine in a different way. Singles tend to be about maximising torque over peak power. When riding the thing you'll notice you can usually go faster by just changing up a gear rather than revving it to the limiter. But otherwise the things done to tune one are the same.
I rode a KTM 660 SMC, that vibrated a lot more than my SRX 600.

Look into Supermono racing, they tend to nick big KTM singles and stick them in a 250 frame. They get 80+bhp out of some of the motors, but i don't think you should be aiming for that unless your pockets are deep and your wallet fat.

One difference is that changing pistons and boring the engine out are a lot more plausible when you've only got to do it to the one cylinder.
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G
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PostPosted: 20:10 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Re: tuning a single cylinder 4 stroke Reply with quote

steven_191 wrote:

also the ktm engine apparently vibrates alot. am i wrong in thinking a well sorted balance shaft should sort that out??

Doubt it. They changed the design of the balancer a fair bit for the 690.

If you want more power, why not look at a Husaberg 650? Worse service intervals, but more power and less weight.
You can get 750cc kits too.

There are various tuning options out there for the Lc4, but not sure they're really very economically viable - back to the 650 engine. Not sure on them myself, but ktmforum.co.uk would probably help you out.
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steven_191
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PostPosted: 20:13 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

so would the aim for more torque be better than more horse power be sensible?

im slightly expecting this to want to wheelie.

my plans are, cagiva mito frame, aprillian rs125 swing arm to suite the chain on the right hand side, ktm lce 640 engine. i may even use the rs125 frame but that depends. its just that i have the cagiva frame and apparently they are good.

the mito and rs125 are competing bikes in terms of lightweight 2 stroke 125cc road bikes and theyre both quick so using that swing arm wont alter too many characteristics. but with the extra power and espcially torque i think it might want to wheelie quite easy. but thats a problem to adress in the future.
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steven_191
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PostPosted: 20:19 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Re: tuning a single cylinder 4 stroke Reply with quote

G wrote:
steven_191 wrote:

also the ktm engine apparently vibrates alot. am i wrong in thinking a well sorted balance shaft should sort that out??

Doubt it. They changed the design of the balancer a fair bit for the 690.

If you want more power, why not look at a Husaberg 650? Worse service intervals, but more power and less weight.
You can get 750cc kits too.

There are various tuning options out there for the Lc4, but not sure they're really very economically viable - back to the 650 engine. Not sure on them myself, but ktmforum.co.uk would probably help you out.


mainly because the ktm's available and ive started planning around it so im pretty much decided.
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G
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

It'll probably be less likely to wheelie than in it's original frame - as you'll have a lower centre of gravity.

Quote:
so would the aim for more torque be better than more horse power be sensible?

Power=Torque*5252 - so one will reflect the other.
Tuning for the sake of it - give me the money and I'll tell you it's got more power, which'll probably make you just as happy Wink.

See enough Husabergs out there too. Really don't see the point in going for a slower option so you can spend a load of money making it not as good as the already available faster one.
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steven_191
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PostPosted: 21:13 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

how much though? im not sure ive even heard of husaberg?

and it depends how much needs spending all in. im not planning on tuning anything to start with. just a thought as theres a big difference between one and four cylinders.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 21:19 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Husaberg AKA Husabang Laughing

My mate had a supermoto one, it needed an oil change every 1.5 hours IIRC. He said his was about 70bhp from a 650.
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G
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PostPosted: 21:20 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

The thing is, unless you're going for a racing class, you choose a single cylinder bike for road use because you like the lack of power generally.

Don't know specific costs for tuning and will depend on how much you get done, but on average I'd say people are at the least in to four figures.

Husaberg is owned by KTM - their bikes are similar to the EXC range KTM has, but they go bigger while still keeping light weight.
As I say, 750cc kits are available and used for desert racing in north America, where you're staying at pretty high speeds.
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

ktm is only really taken a foot hold in the uk in the last 5 years,
but here in nz they have been the best selling bike (offroad) for the last 10 years atleast,

there are loads of tuning options,
mostly involving cam changes, carb upgrades, and porting
there is bigbore kits available but you'' only get a few extra cc so basically no one ever uses them,

if you keep up with maintainance they last a fair while, and rebuilds are nice and easy Very Happy
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Tristan.
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PostPosted: 21:56 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:
Power=Torque*5252 - so one will reflect the other.
Tuning for the sake of it - give me the money and I'll tell you it's got more power, which'll probably make you just as happy Wink.


Without going all Teflon Mike on you power is actually torque times revs.

and more specifically torque in an engine is BMEP * displacement. BMEP being a measurement of the force from combustion, effected by the efficiency at which it is burned. Another factor to this is the losses.

So looking at the maths you have 4 options for increasing the power.

Increase displacement
Increase revs (by lightening components and strengthening others, or being confident they'll work at higher revs)
Increase (or change*) BMEP, make the combustion more efficient by gas flowing or tuning the ports.
Reduce losses, lighten components, reduce friction by blueprinting parts etc

*BMEP varies with the revs, engines are designed to be most efficient at different rev ranges, hence why a dynograph output isn't a straight line.
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G
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PostPosted: 22:10 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, yes the calculation is power=(torque*revs)/5252 ; my apologies.

Anyway, the point was that they were directly related, so more torque=more power. And yes, I do realise he was using the Jeremy Clarksons 'torqs' thing.
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steven_191
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

i would like to lose weight off the bike but really that would cost more than it would be worth to do.

i would aim for better flow and more efficient combustion and utilising the cam and displacement to its potential. not too sure about the carb because from my own research changing the carb isnt always that worthwhile. just the 'right' choice.

and the way i normally view these things is, if KTM thought the carb was shit, why would they put in into a mass produced bike? and this bike sells fairly well and i havent read about the carbs not doing their job right.

it'll be more a case of getting a decent mixture in the the combustion chamber and getting it ready for combustion. considering its only got about 9 inches or so of travel from the carb to the valves, thats why i say the 'right' choice of carb.

ive still got to buy an engine yet though Shocked
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 22:58 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about get an engine of your choice and get it fitted into the frame and everything sorted like mountings, chain alignment, fuel and lubrication systems plumbed in etc, before you start to worry about wanting more than the 50/55bhp that your thinking of.

I know of people who have spent ££££'s building a tuned or specially modified and or frankenstein car engine, and then not had or being able to afford a suitable car to stick it into. It's just pointless to spend lots of money and time on a trick or special tuned engine, if all your going to have at the end of the day is an engine and thats it?
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binge
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PostPosted: 23:22 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:
How about get an engine of your choice and get it fitted into the frame and everything sorted like mountings, chain alignment, fuel and lubrication systems plumbed in etc, before you start to worry about wanting more than the 50/55bhp that your thinking of.

I know of people who have spent ££££'s building a tuned or specially modified and or frankenstein car engine, and then not had or being able to afford a suitable car to stick it into. It's just pointless to spend lots of money and time on a trick or special tuned engine, if all your going to have at the end of the day is an engine and thats it?



Agree!

When I built my 2 stroke hybrid pit bike. Using a KLX Cradle frame, KTM SX65 forks, Billet Swinger and Monster Mag wheels. Then sticking a TZR125 engine in it.

I build the bike using a blown up engine. Then once it was all together, I rebuilt the engine.





Ben
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steven_191
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PostPosted: 00:12 - 07 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wasn't planning on doing it before it was all working. I said earlier I wouldn't know until I finished and rode it to see what it's like. I was more interested in wheather the tuning approach to a single was the same as an engine with more cylinders.
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G
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PostPosted: 00:19 - 07 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

steven_191 wrote:
I wasn't planning on doing it before it was all working. I said earlier I wouldn't know until I finished and rode it to see what it's like. I was more interested in wheather the tuning approach to a single was the same as an engine with more cylinders.

Yes, basically.

Don't bother, buy a faster bike in the first place. Wink


But yes, still, it's all pretty much the same; just a bit less hassle in that you don't have to worry too much about symmetry, never mind getting in to the nasty stuff where middle cylinders get hotter etc.
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steven_191
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PostPosted: 08:44 - 07 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buying a faster bike is definitely not as much fun.
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G
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PostPosted: 09:11 - 07 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, I thought you were making the bike primarily for riding, not for the sake of building and spending money; fair enough then :p.
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tahrey
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PostPosted: 23:42 - 07 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:
Quote:
so would the aim for more torque be better than more horse power be sensible?

Power=Torque*5252 - so one will reflect the other.


Ah man this old argument... all that really matters at the end of the day is Newtons force where the rear wheel meets the tarmac. Which is a function of your torque vs the gearing (primary reduction, main reduction, chain reduction, and wheel size). Power is the ability for the engine to keep supplying said force as the speed goes up, instead of it all being leeched away just to keep the crank turning at the same pace.
More torque is good, but more torque over a wider rev range, and more power overall, is better. I much prefer my petrol car's 4000rpm-wide spread of 148Nm on frantic gears than a previous turbodiesel hire's 200-and-something (maybe even 300) over about 1500rpm effective with tall, wide gears. (Well, everywhere except cruising at 80 on the motorway)
Just as it's better for everyday stuff but not for ultimate speed vs some very peaky racer which does the same thing, but up near the red line rather than a small but significant distance above idle.

BTW, the actual formula is

Power (in DIN HP) = Torque (in lb*ft) x RPM / 5252

So at 5252rpm, if your engine is turning with a force of 45 lbft (at the centre of the crank) it's also generating 45 HP into the bargain.

Diesels produce more but it's all at low revs, so to do any kind of actual speed you have to gear up, and at the wheels you actually get LESS force, because there's less power. Strange but true. The butt-dyno says otherwise, but the graphs spit out of excel when you run the numbers concur with this and also match the 0-60 times and top speeds.
For a bike, what you want is a good deal of torque everywhere you can get it, but a fair old wedge at the top end to give you screaming power as well Very Happy (Well OK you want that for a car as well, but the driving styles tend to be a bit different, as does the power:weight vs drag, and the gearing)

(Which is why I like the CGs power curve, except for the complete loss of all oomph on wide throttle at the very bottom which is probably indicative of a carb fault... it'll slog like a diesel truck, slowly uphill in high gear, but it holds that torque enough to high revs to still have a -bit- of power-led pep when you drop a couple of gears; though it follows the description to a T and hates being taken near the limiter)

When in doubt, prioritise the torque. You're unlikely to get in a scrape because you only had 50hp @ 10krpm rather than 60 @ 11krpm, but if it goes off the boil at the bottom end then it's a scramble for the right gear and trying not to stall; or at least, in extremis, an embarrassing moment where you're rapidly losing speed when everyone else isn't because you've reached a flat spot in the engine where the torque's dropped enough to no longer whiz you up the hill but you're still going too quick to change down (more likely to be felt as a lull after changing up, like turbo lag).
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G
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PostPosted: 11:27 - 08 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, this old argument it would seem Rolling Eyes. If you read my later post, you will note I DID post the correct formula.

So, what you're saying, is that you want torque spread across a wide range of rpm, going to a high rpm.
So, what shall we call this concept, hmmm, maybe 'quarop'? Hmmm, doesn't sound right, how about, err, 'power'. Yes that sounds quite good! Wink

Having torque figures alone tells you nothing. I could present you with a bike engine that has 1000NM of torque spread across 4/5th it's rev range. But the output shaft is spinning at .1-1rpm. Throw in some sensible gearing and suddenly you've got very little force at the rear wheel.

So we can see that 'torque across the rev range' actually means very little.
To be useful, it needs to be qualified with rpm too. When you include RPM, you are then describing power, not torque.

With RPM/Power you can get a good of the gearing you CAN run. This gives you an idea of the likely force at the rear wheel.

Quote:

When in doubt, prioritise the torque.

What you then go on to describe is 'range of torque', or, more importantly, 'range of power'.
Of course it does also miss the point that not everyone wants this. My GSXR has got a very good range of torque/range of power (far better than the majority of other genres, including cruisers, etc), yet is less exciting for it, for me.

Your example of not being able to accelerate in gear is an excellent example of the fallacy of saying 'prioritise torque' to my mind. Take a NSR125. Open it up in sixth and you probably won't get to the power band. Yet if you look at the torque 'figure' for the NSR, it's quite high. What you should be considering for this case is the range of power (or range of torque across high rpm) - or just using the gears, which is why you've got them Rolling Eyes. Wink
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