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Bearings upgrade!

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kingsknight
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Bearings upgrade! Reply with quote

Bike failed it's MOT on the head stock bearings needing to be replaced. Ordered some taper headstock bearings as a replacement but I'v just found out that the standard bearings in my headstock are just ball bearings.

https://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn92/breakingpointltd/09022011%20XR125/CIMG0759.jpg

I take it upgrading the ball bearings to taper bearings shouldn't be a problem?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Upgrading is not a problem.

Getting the original races out/off in order to fit the new ones can be something of a bastard.

There will be many threads covering this subject.

EDIT: Is that a super wide-angle lens or are both your fork stanchions bent?
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kingsknight
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

not my forks, found that image on ebay. Any tips on how to get the old ones out?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:50 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=199292
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kingsknight
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PostPosted: 17:42 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

you sir, are a star. Karma
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Ed Case
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PostPosted: 19:41 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

FItted Taper Roller head bearings to my 250RSA 8 years ago, big improvement, no 'indexing' piece of piss to fit and finally actually cheaper than OE cups/balls/etc. No contest. Smile
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kingsknight
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice one thanks mate, I'm just a little worried about the old bearing seats not wanting to come out. I'm looking forward to getting this job out of the way!
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Ed Case
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

a 'Drift' longish (12 inch) metal bar and a decent hammer, go down through the top for the bottom one and vice-versa for the top one. Dont beat the shit out of it, you'll find it wont take too much belting, work slowly around the bearing tapping it around, it'll soon move and drop out.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I would be more worried about how difficult it might be to get the taper roller races out of the frame should they need to be replaced.

All the best

Keith
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 20:19 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

HOW To: Overhaul the Head-Stock / Replace & Adjust Steering Bearings
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Ed Case
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

I would be more worried about how difficult it might be to get the taper roller races out of the frame should they need to be replaced.

All the best

Keith


As long as they're well greased on assembly they should outlive the bike but they come out just the same way, I've done the swap on three bikes, a pleasant half-days work in the shed.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Personally I wouldn't trust them to last any longer than the ball bearings. The load on the steering head bearing is mainly along the line of the steering head and ball bearings are fine for that.

Had to replace knackered taper roller bearings quite a few times. Trouble is that compared to normal ball bearings they have a very narrow outer race which can sometimes barely (if at all) stand beyond the mounting ridge for the bearings. Makes them pretty much impossible to drift out without grinding away at the frame.

All the best

Keith
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kestrel
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:


Had to replace knackered taper roller bearings quite a few times. Trouble is that compared to normal ball bearings they have a very narrow outer race which can sometimes barely (if at all) stand beyond the mounting ridge for the bearings. Makes them pretty much impossible to drift out without grinding away at the frame.

All the best

Keith


The easiest way i've found to remove inner races from the headstock is to tack weld a short piece of flat bar across the race, drill a hole in the flat bar and use a slide hammer to pull the race.
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Ed Case
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Changed taper rollers on a '77 Laverda SF and a 250 that had been laid up outside for some years...........no problem with either.
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kingsknight
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Personally I wouldn't trust them to last any longer than the ball bearings


The bloke at the MOT centre said that they should last at least twice as long as ball bearings and should be a lot easier to replace as well...... Shocked
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Ed Case
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PostPosted: 21:10 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

kingsknight wrote:
Quote:
Personally I wouldn't trust them to last any longer than the ball bearings


The bloke at the MOT centre said that they should last at least twice as long as ball bearings and should be a lot easier to replace as well...... Shocked


There you go !.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 21:20 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

kingsknight wrote:

The bloke at the MOT centre said that they should last at least twice as long as ball bearings and should be a lot easier to replace as well...... Shocked


Longer lived wouldn't surprise me, although not sure I would expect them to last twice as long. Possibly easier to replace than faffing round with individual ball bearings (especially if those bearings are sold singly like the NS Laughing ) but from experience far more difficult to remove from the frame.

Not saying not to use them (have a set to go into the NS frame when I put it back together), just be aware that there are down sides. Also they seem to be trickier to get adjusted properly.

As an aside, a load of Aprilias use a taper roller bottom bearing but with a conventional caged ball (ie, like a big wheel bearing) top bearing. Bottom one has the near to vertical load while the uppers vertical load is just the weight of the forks and any clamping force from being tightened up.

All the best

Keith
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 16 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ed Case wrote:
Changed taper rollers on a '77 Laverda SF and a 250 that had been laid up outside for some years...........no problem with either.

Some-one left a Laverda SF OUTSIDE!
do the Laverda Owners Club know about this?
Have they sworn out a Fatwa on him? Laughing
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Ed Case
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PostPosted: 09:53 - 17 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'd be surprised just how ambivalent some Laverda owners used to be about looking after their bikes, they aren't these days though, what you could get for £2000 three or four years ago is pulling £9000 now and some idiots are actually paying it.
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woodyfjr
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Joined: 25 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: 10:21 - 17 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

When ever I have done the head bearings I fit tapers but these can fail like any other bearing as they all need greasing but owners dont bother.
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Ed Case
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 17 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well said Woody !.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 12:11 - 17 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Headstock bearings fail because they spend most of their time in one positiong (steering straight forward).

To remove a bearing race from a headstock, simply run a bead of weld around the inside. They will shrink when the weld cools and fall out.

Put a piece of scrap ally in the bottom to prevent the bearing being welded to the headstock.
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kingsknight
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PostPosted: 16:29 - 21 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I done the bearings upgrade and fuck me it was a CUNT. Everything went smoothly until it come to removing the bottom bearing seat. Took me and my grandfather 2 hours to get the old one off and the new one on.

The old one just refused to move not matter how much force we used and once we did get it off the new seat refused to set rightly.

The whole job took about 4 hours. Neither of us ever had done them before so we both learnt something new.

I didn't really know how fucked my old bearings was until I felt the new ones. It's really worth the upgrade as you can feel the difference straight away!

Thanks for your help guys, I knew what I was kinda getting into thanks to you lot! Karma

Job done
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:44 - 21 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

How did you get the bottom seat off? Just trying to lever it off is usually a non-starter.

The way I do it is to cut down one side with my angle grinder, taking care to catch the stem as little as possible. You have to cut at an angle because you can't get quite flat to the stem but the top you can split with a small chisel. They just fall off then or can be prised with a small lever. Bonus is, you can then turn the old one upside down and use it as a drift with a bit of tube to drive on the new one.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 17:33 - 21 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

kingsknight wrote:
Job done

Thumbs Up Laughing Thumbs Up
THAT is the important bit!
Does make such a difference doesn't it?
Soooooo many people grumble about the way bikes handle, Soooooo many of them have probably never had thier head-stock bearings even adjusted!
Just remember, give it a week, maybe 100miles or so to 'bed in', and check and tweek the pre-load again, or they'll be as sloppy as your old ones in no time!
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