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It won't start (02 hornet)

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fergul
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 22 Nov 2015
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PostPosted: 13:40 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: It won't start (02 hornet) Reply with quote

Crying or Very sad got my hornet 600 a week ago managed to get out on it once but now it just won't fire changed the plugs and battery but that didn't work. My only other thought is the fuels gone bad as it had been stood for a while, or the one I'm dreading is blocked carbs.

I couldn't find where to post an introduction jobby.

Cheers

Ferg
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 14:20 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to here.

Do you know if the fuel system has an inline filter fitted?

If it has been 'stood' then any 'stuff' that the filter matrix has trapped may have developed into an impenetrable mush/slime.
Key off or turn the fuel off if it has a valve/cock
Remove the filter and try to flush it out by shoogle-ing it in some clean petrol.
Reconnect to the tank end of the fuel hose.
Point the open end into the container you used to wash the filter.
Turn on ignition or open the fuel tap/valve/cock and check if fuel flows from the open end. It should be a good stream as opposed to a drip or trickle.
Reconnect to the open end of the filter to the engine end of the fuel line.
Try to start.

Fuel will go off but not so much that it will prevent an engine being started.

I may loose some detonation qualities but not so bad that it would need replaced.
Maybe a good practice to replace fuel that's been standing for several years.

Petrol doesn't suffer as much from storage as Diesel fuel does. But Diesel seems to suffer more due to moisture.

When storing any fuel system the recommendation is to fill tanks to max to reduce the air space. Tanks are vented to allow fuel to run out and to prevent stress from thermal expansion etc.
As the fuel cools it reduces volume which allows the atmosphere to push air into the tank. Moisture in the air can then condense on cold surfaces in the tank. When the fuel heats up and expands the air is pushed out again but the condensed moisture isn't an eventually drops, runs down to the bottom of the tank.
Because of this issue most tanks incorporate a 'stand' pipe device where the outlet is raised a little above the lowest point of the tank.

And why it can be a problem when you run a tank to empty. Fuel keeps any water/shit on the bottom but without the weight of the fuel on it the shit can be sooked into the system. Sad

And FYI

Jobby
Be careful. Wink
Very Happy
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.
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Islander
World Chat Champion



Joined: 05 Aug 2012
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PostPosted: 16:07 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may have flooded it. Leave it for a while and give it another go.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flooded?

Open Choke if (manual control).

Hold throttle wide open against the stop.

Turn/kick the engine over several times. This will blow the excess fuel mixture and some of the condensed fuel out the combustion space.

Close the throttle.

Set the choke to maximum

'Crack' the throttle open about 1/8th of a turn.

Turn the engine over to start.

It 'should' start and run-up to a fast idle.

Try not to let it rev it's tits off and roll the throttle towards closed if the RPMs 'runs away'. But the trick is to not let it run too slow and it dies again.

If it is difficult to hold a steady fast idle then you can slightly open-close-open-close the throttle.
After a few seconds like this the engine should be able to idle on it's on just on the choke.
As the engine warms up the extra fuel due to the choke setting will allow the RPMs to increase again. As they increase you need to reduce the choke setting towards off in small increments.
It might need choke for a few minutes.
If you are ready to move off you can do so soon as you want but the engine will still be a little lumpy and fragile at idle. So be ready to 'catch it if it wants to die.
It will normally run OK with the throttle open but the choke will cause excessive fuel use and maybe rough running.
Reduce the choke when under way if you don't envisage needing to stop for couple of hundred yards.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.
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fergul
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 22 Nov 2015
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sweet I managed to get it going chucked some power in brimmed it tried the flooding procedures and it went but on no choke so I think it was flooding. Do you know if they have advance/retard timing or a tps as I think it's flooding as soon as I go to kick it up.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:48 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

fergul wrote:
Sweet I managed to get it going chucked some power in brimmed it tried the flooding procedures and it went but on no choke so I think it was flooding. Do you know if they have advance/retard timing or a tps as I think it's flooding as soon as I go to kick it up.



It is probably electronic ignition. (No points) and ignition is map controlled.

Flooding can be due to a leaking float valve in the carburetor.

Older bikes are plagued by this and it is why we shut off the fuel at the tank cock when we stop the muthurfuckirs.

If flooding due to mixture then the carb/s may need a clean out and adjusted. Shite can block tiny ports and cause all sorts of issue.

You could maybe try pouring an additive/snake oil product in before bladdering it to clean the carbs.
But ultimately that is possibly putting off what is imminently going to come back and bite you later. When 2500 miles from home. Smile Bikes do that. Not two miles from home. Nah... They aye shit ther' sels' well outwith pushing distance.

I don't understand why folk have any interest in motorbikes. Confused
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fergul
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 22 Nov 2015
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PostPosted: 22:17 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers I'll get my tools out when we get snow as I'll be riding it until then
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