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under 10k miles and chain loose

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teuma86
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Joined: 16 Sep 2008
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 28 Aug 2011    Post subject: under 10k miles and chain loose Reply with quote

hey all.

riding along and noticed a rattling sound on the bike when i come of the throttle. checked around and noticed the chain a lose.

my friends dad had a quick look and i saw the chain jumping around. knocking against the stand. causing the rattling.

Bike Details: Kawasaki ER6-F 2009 just under 10,000 miles.

A: what would/could cause this

B: How much roughly is this going to set me back by roughly? money is tight at the moment. in the lasy couple of months i have paid for a service, removal of restriction kit and a new front tyre.
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.....
Quote Me Happy



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PostPosted: 19:16 - 28 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I take it you've reached the end of the chain's adjustment? Have you looked after the chain?
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Mikey CB500
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Joined: 06 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: 19:19 - 28 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do presume youve been lubing and tightening the chain regulary?
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 19:23 - 28 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

If it just needs adjustment and lubing then it will cost you next to nothing to do yourself.

If it needs a new chain and sprocket kit then about £80 mail order for you to do it yourself.

Pay a dealer to do that and they will probably charge more for the kit and an hours labour to fit it (so say double it).

All the best

Keith
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Oldie
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 28 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

How many miles have you done since the recent service?
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teuma86
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Joined: 16 Sep 2008
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 28 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

i lube the chain regulary i dont know how to tighten it. i am not that good with the maitenance on the bike, althoug i do want to learn.

i have done approx 2k miles since the service. i have been doing a lot of miles this year.
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.....
Quote Me Happy



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PostPosted: 19:53 - 28 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You probably just need to tighten the chain. Either look in the manual as to how to do it, take it to a mechanic and watch them for future reference or find someone local to show you.

There's a PDF owner's manual here

https://shanetp.110mb.com/99986-1451%202009%20ER-6F.pdf

If you're really desperate you're not too far from me if you need a hand.
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teuma86
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PostPosted: 22:35 - 29 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

i popped round to see my uncle today who helped me adjust the chain. he has said that the chain is worn and i need a new chain and set of sprockets and he will help me fit them.

so can anyone recomend where i can purchase a set of sprockets and a new chain. i know im on a budget but i dont want to buy something that is cheap and not goinb to last.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 22:37 - 29 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

B&C Express have fair prices and a good service.

All the best

Keith
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Casper
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 29 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should get a good DID set on eBay for around 70 quid.
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Nick 50
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Joined: 24 Jul 2011
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PostPosted: 23:31 - 29 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

As for cause of it, Is your back wheel alignment spot on? If it's out that will definitely reduce the life of the chain.

As for learning maintenance, use youtube to get an idea of what needs to be done and also some of the more technical stuff like carb balancing etc etc.


I used this vid for chain tension and wheel alignment:

https://youtu.be/zB4DsHV8SAQ
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 23:33 - 29 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

teuma86 wrote:
i popped round to see my uncle today who helped me adjust the chain. he has said that the chain is worn and i need a new chain and set of sprockets and he will help me fit them.


Maybe, but get a second opinion. Specifically, yours.

Take a few minutes to view any of the thousands of idiots' guides to adjusting chain tension and determining sprocket wear. Your uncle (mate/brother-in-law) is well meaning, but is not an expert.
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teuma86
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PostPosted: 07:54 - 30 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
teuma86 wrote:
i popped round to see my uncle today who helped me adjust the chain. he has said that the chain is worn and i need a new chain and set of sprockets and he will help me fit them.


Maybe, but get a second opinion. Specifically, yours.

Take a few minutes to view any of the thousands of idiots' guides to adjusting chain tension and determining sprocket wear. Your uncle (mate/brother-in-law) is well meaning, but is not an expert.


My uncle is pretty good when it comes to bikes. he has not rode a chain driven bike for over 10 years (his are BMW Belt Driven) but he know what to do without having to look it up.

He also mentioned a better method of lubing the chain. (To remove the chain from the bike and bath it in some fluid, instead of spraying it)

He showed me the lines near the rear wheel, saying these have to be the same on BOTH sides, then the alignment should be spot on.

he then measures the gap from the last line visible to make sure both sides are exactly the same. But thanks for the heads up.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 08:41 - 30 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can't easily remove the chain because it probably won't have a split link like he's thinking, even if it does there's no need and it's very messy.
Simply lubricating it more with the aerosol spray will help a lot, ideally clean it with paraffin or diesel once a month or so too.
You can do it in place with an old paint brush and a good sized rag to remove the softened gunk.

Technically a good O ring chain has sealed links (filled with grease) and doesn't need lubrication, but it does need to be kept 'oily' to stop corrosion especially on the side plates.
Be careful with your adjusting, a common mistake is to overtighten which causes very rapid wear.
A new set will hardly need touching for the first few thousand miles.

With your weight on the bike the suspension geometry changes in a way which tightens it more.
I check it's not too tight by laying over the pillion and reaching down to it - you will look ridiculous but worth doing.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 08:43 - 30 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

teuma86 wrote:

He also mentioned a better method of lubing the chain. (To remove the chain from the bike and bath it in some fluid, instead of spraying it)


Not really done anymore. Used to be common, but with O ring chains it isn't really that useful (the O rings will stop lube getting in as well as out), and the exterior of the chain can be lubed easily with a normal can of chain lube. Also most chains these days are rivit link so to remove them means either breaking the rivit link (and fitting a new one afterwards) or removing the swinging arm.

teuma86 wrote:
He showed me the lines near the rear wheel, saying these have to be the same on BOTH sides, then the alignment should be spot on.


I wouldn't rely on these at all. They might well not be accurate anyway, and even if they are your observation of them won't be that accurate. As each arm of the swinging arm is relatively close a wheel a fair bit out of line will only show a tiny difference on the swinging arm anyway.

You only need to get things in line once with a new chain. After that adjust the chain adjusters the same number of flats each time (ie, 1/6th of a turn). If you do this the wheel will stay just as inline.

All the best

Keith
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DrDonnyBrago
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Joined: 03 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 08:45 - 30 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

teuma86 wrote:
[My uncle is pretty good when it comes to bikes. he has not rode a chain driven bike for over 10 years (his are BMW Belt Driven) but he know what to do without having to look it up.

He also mentioned a better method of lubing the chain. (To remove the chain from the bike and bath it in some fluid, instead of spraying it)

He showed me the lines near the rear wheel, saying these have to be the same on BOTH sides, then the alignment should be spot on.

he then measures the gap from the last line visible to make sure both sides are exactly the same. But thanks for the heads up.



Your uncle hasn't tried removing the chain on a modern bike - it is rare that the chain can be removed from a larger bike without removing the swingarm (unless you have a split link type chain which has no place on a big bike).


The chain needs to be cleaned and lubed on the bike. If he hasn't had a chain driven bike in 10 years he might not have the tool (or the inclination to buy one) to fit a chain and might opt for a split link chain, politely decline as you could end up slightly dead as a result of the chain coming off and locking your wheel.

Chain adjustment is the arse wiping of bike mechanics - i.e. a simple and essential task you need to learn how to do yourself.
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Frost
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PostPosted: 10:35 - 30 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the chain doesn't have a split link, then you won't want to put one on with a split link. So you'll need a chain riveting tool. It's done like this:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygJZuzjvIMY
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.....
Quote Me Happy



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PostPosted: 10:46 - 30 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're lazy like me and/or do a lot of miles then consider fitting a Scottoiler.

Some people don't seem to get on with them but mine has been great since fitting it.
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teuma86
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PostPosted: 12:35 - 30 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is another question. How often should I be lubing my chain. Someone said it should be done every 1k miles or so (depending on conditions I am riding in)

Someone said, a well lubes chain should only need lubing once a year.

Someone said, weekly, regardless of riding or standing all week.

big gap between Weekly and Yearly. Suggestions and why please.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 12:39 - 30 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weekly. Lube gets flung off. The chain should always look a bit wet.
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 30 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

When mine starts looking dry I lube it.

Usually weekly.. but maybe every 2 weeks if I forget to check Embarassed
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 12:56 - 30 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boiling the chain in link life is no longer done on modern chains with o-rings.

After 10k miles with sparse adjustment it's no wonder it needs changing.

Get yourself a new chain and sprocket kit - buy the best quality you can afford. EK, DID, Tsubaki are all good makes but they also come in different grades.

To get the old chain off you just cut it with a grinder - BUT - before you do this make sure that:

1) you can get the front sprocket nut off - and
2) you have the means to rivet the new chain link

It's important to loosen the front sprocket before removing the chain because very often they are extremely tight.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 12:57 - 30 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

teuma86 wrote:
Someone said, a well lubes chain should only need lubing once a year.


If you never ever ride the bike then maybe.

Depends on the chain lube you are using, the weather conditions and mileage. I do about 200 miles once a week and oil the chain each use.

All the best

Keith
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teuma86
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PostPosted: 12:59 - 30 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am going to order an o-ring

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EX-650-ER6F-Faired-2009-C9F-O-Ring-Chain-Sprocket-Kit-/280703882445?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item415b4154cd

Do I need to purchase a Paddock Stand (or something else) as the ER6-F Does not have a Centre Stand.
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