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Effect of larger diameter rims on a bike.

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koolio
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PostPosted: 23:00 - 20 Sep 2011    Post subject: Effect of larger diameter rims on a bike. Reply with quote

I've always loved large spoked rims on bikes, especially on vintage and classic bikes, love old British racers like 40s-50s Norton Internationals that looked like they had big rims.

Was wondering if anyone would know what the effect would be of adding 20" rims on both the front and rear hubs.

The stock are 19" on the front and 18" on the back of a 70s 500cc twin Honda.

Anyone have suggestions or any ideas how this would affect the handling and traction, what difficulties there are in doing such a mod (main concern is the rear wheel) and whether or not its worth doing?

Would it require a new smaller front end for example and how does this fair for the back swing arm etc.

Any pointers as always appreciated.

Please note: this is not a Bobber/Chopper project rather a cafe racer style with big rims.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:41 - 20 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll be gearing it significantly higher. Might need to drop a tooth or two on the front sprocket to pull away cleanly.

If you go from 19-18 to 20-20 you'll be effectively dropping the front by an inch. It'll be a bit twitchier and will drop into corners more agressively.

It will be a bitch finding decent tyres.

Your speedo will under-read by a fair amount.

Practicality-wise. You might find tyres foul the swingarm, touch the rear mudguard under compression or rub on the front mudguard bracket.

I'd check the clearance and tyre availability before blowing your wad on tasty rims.
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el_oso
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PostPosted: 06:44 - 21 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

larger wheels have a greater rotational mass and don't react to bumps in the road as bad as small wheels.
also, as stinkwheel said higher gear ratio
as well as dropping the front you will change the center of mass. higher centre of mass would add to the quickness of steering
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Silentwalker
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Joined: 14 Sep 2011
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PostPosted: 07:55 - 21 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Was wondering if anyone would know what the effect would be of adding 20" rims on both the front and rear hubs.


Well the handling characteristics would defiantly change because you’d be altering the rake and trail at the front.
You would need to sort out how you’re going to stop. Bigger wheels will probably have different brake systems to what you have now. I know GPz900 owners who have changed the front wheel from the 16 inch to the 17 inch end up also changing the forks and the brakes because the old callipers no longer match the old forks calliper fittings. Same goes for the swinging arm, that often has to be changed too to fit the new wheel.

Traction, depends what tyres you can get to fit the new rims?

It isn’t like people don’t go 70’s retro. It can be done and these people make a living out of it.
https://www.spiritoftheseventies.com/s/

Maybe they can fabricate replica wire wheel replacement that keep the old fitments so all you really get is a visual difference not a major upgrade?
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G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 08:46 - 21 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think a big issue may be limited tyre availability?
You'll have more options at 21", but most will be front tyres.
Overall, it seems quite likely you will make your bike handle a bit worse, but probably not massively so.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 09:20 - 21 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would have though it would be more stable not more twitchy. But stable in a bad way, as in not wanting to lean over at all, the bike always fighting to be upright.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:35 - 21 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
I would have though it would be more stable not more twitchy. But stable in a bad way, as in not wanting to lean over at all, the bike always fighting to be upright.


Shouldn't do. If the back is going from 18 to 20 and the front is going from 19 to 20 you're raising the rear by 2" and the front by 1". It would have the same net effect on the steering geometry as dropping an inch of fork through the yokes. It'll get twitchier, possibly a lot twitchier.

If it gets too twitchy, you might need to alter the ride height somehow, either by fitting longer forks, slugging the original forks (nasty!) or fitting shorter shocks (assuming the wheel would still fit under the mudguard). Or you could chop the frame...

Or it might turn it into a nimble little road racer? Or you might just decide to fit wider bars, crank up the steering damper and live with it.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 11:21 - 21 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
chris-red wrote:
I would have though it would be more stable not more twitchy. But stable in a bad way, as in not wanting to lean over at all, the bike always fighting to be upright.


Shouldn't do. If the back is going from 18 to 20 and the front is going from 19 to 20 you're raising the rear by 2" and the front by 1". It would have the same net effect on the steering geometry as dropping an inch of fork through the yokes. It'll get twitchier, possibly a lot twitchier.

If it gets too twitchy, you might need to alter the ride height somehow, either by fitting longer forks, slugging the original forks (nasty!) or fitting shorter shocks (assuming the wheel would still fit under the mudguard). Or you could chop the frame...

Or it might turn it into a nimble little road racer? Or you might just decide to fit wider bars, crank up the steering damper and live with it.


My thinking is the centrifugal force of the bigger wheels will slow the handling down loads. People raise the rear of bikes by an inch all the time and it doesn't make them twitchy. My TDM has the rear raised 30mm, and it made it handle quicker but by no means is it twitchy.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 11:24 - 21 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

But bigger wheels should make it less twitchy, so possible it will balance out Smile.
Or you may be able to get a lower profile tyre, depending on the current one on (though less likely at these sizes.)
Or may be able to adjust the ride attitude in other ways too.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 21 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well strictly speaking you are raising the rear by 1" and the front by 0.5" (since 20" is the diameter, not the radius, and it is the radius which sits between the axle and the ground).
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 12:14 - 21 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

weasley wrote:
Well strictly speaking you are raising the rear by 1" and the front by 0.5" (since 20" is the diameter, not the radius, and it is the radius which sits between the axle and the ground).


Technically until you know what tires sizes are available and being used nobody knows what the difference will be. Laughing
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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koolio
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Joined: 08 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 23 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm still a little unclear on what the effects would be.

I think I've decided to stick to the stock, recently discovering that the Dunlops K82, K70 and K81 I wanted to put on do not come in a size 20.

Thanks all anyhow.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 21:53 - 23 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

They will make tight cornering hard at speed due to the large rotational mass and gyroscopic forces. my hillclimber has a 21 inch front rim and it is costing me time on the hills.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 23 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the front of one of my CB550 Hondas I had this setup

https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/Earlydays034.jpg

What I had wanted to do was to fit an 18" alloy rim to the front hub with CB750F1 discs and caliper brackets.But with the two 500/550 discs it was more than adequate stopping,with one disc having a set of Ferodo pads,with the other having Vesrah pads.This way it was twin discs in the dry,and single disc operation in the wet,as Vesrah were known to be rubbish in the wet in those days.

But on my CB750F2 I fitted a much bigger rear wheel,a 4.75x18 rim,with the front being a 3.25x18.This allowed me to fit a 160 on the back CMA wheel and a 110/80x18 on the front CMA.Both wheels were custom made for me,thus allowing what were modern tyres in their day.

https://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv23/WiNot_Rhencullen/My750042.jpg
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G
The Voice of Reason



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PostPosted: 23:08 - 23 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done fine on various trail bikes with a 21" front and chunky 140 18" rear... Would like to try the 690 on track with ok road biased tyres.

With road (and most track, in the end) riding it does end bring a case of the rider bring the limiting factor, possibly with the question of whether to say push a bike up 30% or 50% of the bike's abilities.
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