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| Nope. |
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Nope.
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 Posted: 01:13 - 10 Oct 2011  Post subject: Unleaded fuel additive in older cars |
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Alright, so I went out today and got myself a Blaze Orange 1971 MGB GT. Im picking it up on friday evening when I can get a lift up there. Having only owned one car that needed a leaded fuel additive (that being a shitty old ford orion I used to rag around a mates farm at about 14) I cant for the life of me remember what the hell your supposed to do with it (Other then the obvious thing of putting it in the tank).
Its pretty expensive stuff for what it is (£12.49 for 250ml from Halfrauds) but how far does that go realistically? Is that going to last me 100 litres, 50 litres, 200 litres?
Any tips for its use would be appreciated 
Oh, and pics of the car on friday if its still light, if not then saturday.
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| oldpink |
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oldpink
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| Marmalade |
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Marmalade
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| Posted: 06:57 - 10 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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Did you check to see that it still needs an additive?
It may well have been sorted by now to be perfectly ok on unleaded
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| jowettdriver |
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jowettdriver
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Posted: 08:49 - 10 Oct 2011  Post subject: |
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You may also find it completely unnecessary. I run a 1981 BMW R65, a 1974 Triumph Spitfire and a 1950 Jowett Javelin all of which have soft iron valve seats and run perfectly happily on super unleaded. In the 10 years since leaded fuel was phased out I have seen no valve seat recession (VSR).
The additives are quiet expensive so for my money I have always been of the opinion, that if I find signs of VSR happening then it will take many thousands of miles to burn the valve seat away, and when the head is finally knackered I will have the conversion done. To have hardened inserts fitted, they have to cut out the old seats so you lose nothing by allowing them to slowly recede.
You will also find that if VSR does happen that a lot will depend on your driving style. If you drive it everywhere at very high revs and with a heavy right foot then the VSR will be so much quicker.
When the FBHVC (Federation of British historic vehicle clubs) tested lead replacement additives back in 2000 they took a number of BMC A series engines and subjected them to about 6 weeks running at 5500 RPM (about red line for the A series in normal trim) and then measured VSR on them. The problem is that the testing does not really replicate the normal use of older engines, and while it tested the efficiency of additives it cannot be used as a basis for whether VSR is going occur.
Just my thoughts on the subject, if you decide to use an additive then at the time of testing the FBHVC found that the Millers VSP plus was the most effective. That said though other products have become available since that have not been tested. For more information https://fbhvc.co.uk/fuel-information/#f4
Just my thoughts on the subject.
Cheers Tim.
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| N cee thirty |
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N cee thirty
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| Nope. |
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Nope.
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| Posted: 15:38 - 10 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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Well, im intending to get a stage 2 head next year when im used to the car so Ill get the hardend valve seats with that.
Its not running hardend valve seats at the moment, the cars almost stock. The current owner doesn't run it very often but when he does he uses additive.
Ah well, im off to order a case of Castrol Valvemaster
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| Shaft |
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Shaft
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| Posted: 18:04 - 10 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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| computid wrote: | Well, im intending to get a stage 2 head next year when im used to the car so Ill get the hardend valve seats with that.
Its not running hardend valve seats at the moment, the cars almost stock. The current owner doesn't run it very often but when he does he uses additive.
Ah well, im off to order a case of Castrol Valvemaster |
If I were you, I wouldn't waste my money.
I'm completely with Tim on this one, there's been an awful lot of scaremongering over this issue (probably most of it was instigated by those who stood to make money from it) and I've yet to see any real evidence of it being even a slight concern.
My company specialises in classic cars (and we all run them) and not once have I seen any sign of VSR; in fact, we pulled the heads on my colleague's Essex a couple of weeks ago and the seats were completely fine, despite the fact that he has never used additives, or even high octane unleaded.
Save your cash for something worthwhile.
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| mistergixer |
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mistergixer
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Posted: 18:29 - 10 Oct 2011  Post subject: |
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I recall my Father and I retarded the ignition a few degrees on my old Mini, although that was most likely to prevent any pinking and knock rather than preventing valve seat issues.
That poor little car went to the great scrapheap in the sky many years ago (courtesy of my brother's 'enthusiastic' driving), so forgive me if my memory's a little hazy.
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| Ariel Badger |
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Shaft
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Posted: 23:18 - 10 Oct 2011  Post subject: |
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Just reflecting on this thread, mechanical condition on an MGB is almost irrelevant, the primary concern is always the shell.
MGBs are probably the best supported classic car on the planet (outside of the US) as everything is available and pretty cheap, but fixing body maladies can be very labour intensive.
If the plan is to do a mechanical upgrade next year, forget poncing about with fuel additives and concentrate on making sure the shell is A1, that's the bit that will cost the serious money.
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| Nope. |
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Nope.
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| Posted: 00:26 - 11 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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| Shaft wrote: | Just reflecting on this thread, mechanical condition on an MGB is almost irrelevant, the primary concern is always the shell.
MGBs are probably the best supported classic car on the planet (outside of the US) as everything is available and pretty cheap, but fixing body maladies can be very labour intensive.
If the plan is to do a mechanical upgrade next year, forget poncing about with fuel additives and concentrate on making sure the shell is A1, that's the bit that will cost the serious money. |
The shell is pretty much already in A1 condition having had a full restoration only 6 years ago and having only done 6000 miles since. The door bottoms are a little rough and the jack points could do with a little bit of welding but other then that its sound.
I know that the mechanicals are the cheap parts on the B but they SEEM pretty sound as well.
Just looking to keep the engine in the best condition I can until I can easily afford to upgrade it. I want to keep the parts like the head as original as possible which is why when I remove it ill be keeping it incase I ever want to restore the car back to its original condition.
Thanks for your input none the less
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Shaft
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| Posted: 11:17 - 11 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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| computid wrote: |
The shell is pretty much already in A1 condition having had a full restoration only 6 years ago and having only done 6000 miles since. The door bottoms are a little rough and the jack points could do with a little bit of welding but other then that its sound.
I know that the mechanicals are the cheap parts on the B but they SEEM pretty sound as well.
Just looking to keep the engine in the best condition I can until I can easily afford to upgrade it. I want to keep the parts like the head as original as possible which is why when I remove it ill be keeping it incase I ever want to restore the car back to its original condition.
Thanks for your input none the less |
I'm not normally into prophet of doom posts, but I would be very, very wary of a car that's had a 'full restoration', but already has rust issues less than 6000 miles later.
These cars are notorious for unseen rust problems in the sills and they are extremely difficult to put right; it's no coincidence that they started reproducing complete shells, the cost of repairing them is outrageous.
If I were in your shoes, I would go with a trolley jack and use the jacking points to make sure that the car is capable of supporting it's own weight, without making curious creaking noises or closing up the door gaps, but be prepared for the sills to collapse.
Unfortunately, not everyone has the same idea of what 'full restoration' actually means and there are still an awful lot of these around that have had cosmetic work, but haven't had the correct structural attention and an MOT is not necessarily a foolproof indicator of a rust free body.
Tread carefully 
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Charlie
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Posted: 12:13 - 11 Oct 2011  Post subject: |
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Lovely looking car I'd like one one day.
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| Posted: 12:26 - 11 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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https://www.broquet.co.uk/
My dad ran his ancient Merc with one of these in for years after 4* fuel disappeared. It never had any issues at all.
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Walloper
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| Posted: 20:10 - 11 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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I have not googled it but I think the AA, RAC and or the police used Astras when u/l fuel was introduced.
There was reported incidence of VSR in these cars. So everyone panicked and all sorts of theories came around to ward off the devil in u/l fuel.
One of the most popular is to run your car on leaded fuel every now and then. (If you can remember what you put in last time.)
I think possibly Astras had a bad batch of metal and this sparked the scare.
I may be talking shite though... 
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| Posted: 22:08 - 11 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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HA! Just found out theres a garage a couple of miles from me that sells leaded 4 star. Guess I know where ill be filling up from now on 
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| Posted: 09:20 - 12 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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| N cee thirty |
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N cee thirty
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| Posted: 09:25 - 12 Oct 2011 Post subject: |
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just asked my mum,she said they used to have a white roadster with a soft top
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 13 years, 323 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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