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Remove fuel line (tips)

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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 15:09 - 31 Dec 2011    Post subject: Remove fuel line (tips) Reply with quote

Just wondering if any one has got any tips or method to get the fuel line away from the petcock. Trying to remove the carbs this is one main hurdle trying to get over.

Yes the petcock is set to off, there are no clips holding it in place, would pliers be a bad way of getting it off Question
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 31 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

They weld themselves on. I use a pair of pliers with a serated circular gap to grip the rubber pipe gently and this lets me twist the pipe in both directions to break the seal. Then I pull like mad.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 22:09 - 01 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a blade screwdriver to prise the pipe away from its seated position.Just insert and twist.
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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 13:20 - 02 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips, however tried both of them messages and still can't get it off.
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woll
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PostPosted: 15:00 - 02 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If there's no clips on then either of the above will work. if you can't get it off doing either of the above then you need a dose of MTFU and give it more of a tug...
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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 09:03 - 05 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Going try again today to remove the fuel line, otherwise end up cutting it off and putting a new one on which would be a lot simpler.
Managed get it of using a method that Teflon Mike told me using hot water and my own idea of a pastry brush around the end which got it lose. Just as the heavens opened


However new question save a new thread

Is it normal for individual spark plugs to show different readings when on full choke. With not being able to run normal at the moment tested the spark plugs and they came out different one showing over rich fuel/air and the other showing malfunctioning ignition system.

Know what is causing both of them but is just thought it was weird the plugs are showing different results Question
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 12:35 - 05 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheSmiler wrote:
Going try again today to remove the fuel line, otherwise end up cutting it off and putting a new one on which would be a lot simpler.
Managed get it of using a method that Teflon Mike told me using hot water and my own idea of a pastry brush around the end which got it lose. Just as the heavens opened


However new question save a new thread

Is it normal for individual spark plugs to show different readings when on full choke. With not being able to run normal at the moment tested the spark plugs and they came out different one showing over rich fuel/air and the other showing malfunctioning ignition system.

Know what is causing both of them but is just thought it was weird the plugs are showing different results Question


a Pastry Brush Shocked Were you wearing a pinny, too? Laughing

As for the spark-plugs; see your other post on cleaning carbs!

YES, on these bikes very common. The Corporal is fond of firing up on the left hand pot, first, a trait shared with a lot of CB125's.

BUT; if the choke syncronisation is to fuck, then very likely that you will get different plug colour's; left hand choke will be open as far as the cable is pulled, its directly connected. Right hand choke could be anywhere, or flapping around randomly.
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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 15:38 - 05 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
TheSmiler wrote:
Going try again today to remove the fuel line, otherwise end up cutting it off and putting a new one on which would be a lot simpler.
Managed get it of using a method that Teflon Mike told me using hot water and my own idea of a pastry brush around the end which got it lose. Just as the heavens opened


However new question save a new thread

Is it normal for individual spark plugs to show different readings when on full choke. With not being able to run normal at the moment tested the spark plugs and they came out different one showing over rich fuel/air and the other showing malfunctioning ignition system.

Know what is causing both of them but is just thought it was weird the plugs are showing different results Question


a Pastry Brush Shocked Were you wearing a pinny, too? Laughing

As for the spark-plugs; see your other post on cleaning carbs!

YES, on these bikes very common. The Corporal is fond of firing up on the left hand pot, first, a trait shared with a lot of CB125's.

BUT; if the choke syncronisation is to fuck, then very likely that you will get different plug colour's; left hand choke will be open as far as the cable is pulled, its directly connected. Right hand choke could be anywhere, or flapping around randomly.


Laughing nah don't know where that has been put, however try that method next time you are having problems surprisingly works.

Regarding the spark plugs it is weird the right hand side was showin incorrect air/fuel however it was the left hand side that was clogged the right was great. Only problem is getting them both to close at the same time one wants to stay a nudge open (the right one).
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A2 completed 23/07/15 Ready for the Golden Crisp Packet
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 15:59 - 05 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

For clarity, LHS is the side stand side, JUST in case you are looking from the front of the bike!

Makes perfect sense.

LHSparker is clogged because that one is running 'ritch' on choke.
RHSparker is clear because its firing 'lean' on start up, the choke not closing all the way.

I take it you are at the choke sync stage.

DONT worry too much about the RH Choke flap being a tad 'open' when the choke full on.

The flaps are notched to clear the airway boss and they don't always close fully, catching on that notch.

You only use choke on start up; and you should only be using 'full' choke birefly, if at all, and then only on very cold starts.

The 'important' bit is to make sure that the RH choke flap is fully open, when teh choke is 'off' and that it's not 'wobbling' any on the flex link flat.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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TheSmiler
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Joined: 14 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 05 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
For clarity, LHS is the side stand side, JUST in case you are looking from the front of the bike!

Makes perfect sense.

LHSparker is clogged because that one is running 'ritch' on choke.
RHSparker is clear because its firing 'lean' on start up, the choke not closing all the way.

I take it you are at the choke sync stage.

DONT worry too much about the RH Choke flap being a tad 'open' when the choke full on.

The flaps are notched to clear the airway boss and they don't always close fully, catching on that notch.

You only use choke on start up; and you should only be using 'full' choke birefly, if at all, and then only on very cold starts.

The 'important' bit is to make sure that the RH choke flap is fully open, when teh choke is 'off' and that it's not 'wobbling' any on the flex link flat.


Managed sort them both out to keep them closed what it looks like the mechanic did was add a bit of cable tie underneath the latch that connects both clutches. Managed get a piece underneath an now both stay open or closed at the same time.

Before I was having to use the full choke for about 5 mins then it wouldn't be warm enough .. every problem is down to when I took it into the mechanic.
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A2 completed 23/07/15 Ready for the Golden Crisp Packet
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The last post was made 14 years, 34 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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