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1995 FZR600R 33BHP Restriction

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MattJ
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 27 Dec 2011    Post subject: 1995 FZR600R 33BHP Restriction Reply with quote

Bought a '95 FZR600R a couple of weeks ago ready to ride in February where my insurance runs out on my CG. I'm really struggling to find some restrictors for it on eBay and being a poor student I really don't want to pay dealer prices. So I've been looking around for the dimensions of the washers to see if I could get some made up for me, but so far I've had no joy.

So it's looking like using a throttle stop and getting it dyno'd is the best idea, but how would I go about this? I don't know how I would go about fitting one. I would go on the FZR forum but it seems to be American with a very small amount of UK members. Anybody got some knowledge they could share?

Cheers.
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andys675
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PostPosted: 23:09 - 27 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

the FZR600R never made its way to the US and shares more in common with the thundercat than the old FZR600, look for some restrictors for a thundercat?
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 23:22 - 27 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Thundercat is very similar to the FZR600R as mentioned above. There are minor engine changes.

Quick Ebay search found these.

While I wouldn't be 100% sure that it comes out at 33hp, it should be very close

All the best

Keith
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MattJ
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PostPosted: 23:51 - 27 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I've seen them, and I've read how close the engine is to the Thundercat, but I haven't seen any proof. I'm wondering about buying those restrictors on ebay anyway and just seeing if they fit. The Thundercat seems to produce about the same power as the FZR and like I said, I've read that the engine is very similar, but I don't want to waste my money. What do you think I should do?

As for it never making its way to the US, I've seen in numerous places (including Haynes Manual) that it was manufactured in the US from 89-96, just as it was in the UK.
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molex
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 06:13 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Restrict power can be very simple, it can be cheap!!

Burning it need oxygen (air) and (gas).!

So (air) :
1. restrict the "air box" air intake (use tape seal it half or more).

2. add long the air intake "air funnel" (delate the air into the air box).

3. seal the air filter (use tape seal the air filter half or more).

Then test it one by one.


Of course some other "cheap way" (gas).

Add the preload at carburetor (cover, diaphragm).
Restrict the (Valve, Piston) go high (less gas, less power)



At last hope it can help you. Good luck.!
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 10:44 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

They may be cheap but can damage an engine, You need to keep the mixture consistent but restricted and washers will do this as will limiting throttle opening.
By just limiting either air or fuel you will at the best soot up a motor at worst burn out the pistons.
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P.
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PostPosted: 10:52 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can just use the Thundercat ones.

Even if it was slightly over, your bike will have lost a few ponies by now.

Is your bike absolutely standard. Flatmate has a 1992 GSXR750, gets big headed as it has a dyno print showing 126hp. Had his 33hp washers installed, still dynos around 36, thats from FI. Laughing Its down to the K&N, full D&D system and rejet.

My bikes were never 33hp... only had the restriction for a year anyway as was running around on a 125. Laughing But I had an accident when I was on my restriction and they didn't check then. I rode without them after regardless. Just don't be a dick, don't crash and don't do wheelies and they have minimal reason to pull you over. Laughing
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 11:52 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

MattJ wrote:
What do you think I should do?


I would speak to the guy selling the Thundercat ones. He is the guy on the Bandit forum who does Bandit restrictors. He might have already sold a set to an FZR owner who has checked, or might be willing to do a special set to check.

MattJ wrote:
As for it never making its way to the US, I've seen in numerous places (including Haynes Manual) that it was manufactured in the US from 89-96, just as it was in the UK.


That was the plain FZR600, which they got for quite a few years after they stopped selling them in the UK (they even got a version with EXUP for some states). Not certain they didn't get the FZR600R but it does ring a bell. The FZR600 and FZR600R do have quite a lot of engine differences.

All the best

Keith
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molex
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PostPosted: 12:39 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some information from japan

Honda original restriction on VFR800 in japan

https://zensan.jp/index.html

After translate :

Please read the (flash) item.

https://66.163.168.225/babelfish/translate_url_content?.intl=us&lp=ja_en&trurl=http%3a%2f%2fzensan.jp%2findex.html#
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 13:06 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

That is a specific model and fuel injected.

With a carbed engine if you restrict the air flow before the carb you will likely land up with a large intake vacuum drawing a lot of fuel from the carbs. Probably run very rich and badly, in much the same way it would if the air filter was very dirty.

If you try and stop the slide on a CV carb lifting then you will restrict the fuel more than the air. As such as high throttle / revs you strand a fair chance of running lean, which could easily hole a piston.

The washers after the carbs restrict the airflow, but being after the carbs they work in the same way as not opening the throttle fully. The carb will do its job normally and the mixture should be OK.

All the best

Keith
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Im-a-Ridah
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PostPosted: 13:33 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You do know most people don't bother, that it's quite a ballache for the police to prove, and that there are many avenues to evade prosecution... right? So unless you have your heart set on restricting it, I wouldn't bother personally. The FI certificates have no legal status. Proving the bike is not restricted requires a dyno, and you can defer the inspection until surprise surprise you have a restrictor kit! But it's your choice ultimately!
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molex
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PostPosted: 14:07 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please download this two document how to make it fast.!!

Carb FZR600
https://www.dynojet.com/pdf/4129HA.pdf
fig.B and C

Carb Ninja 250R
https://www.dynojet.com/pdf/2193.pdf
fig.C
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 14:18 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Those are not restricting or derestricting the bike. They are kits to adjust the fueling, normally to improve it. The gains are fairly small.

If you restricted the bike by stopping the slide from lifting you would need to develop a similar type of kit to the Dynojet one (but with different profile needles and main jet) for the fueling to be OK. The Dynojet kit itself would be pretty useless for this.

For someone in the UK on a restricted licence they need the bike to produce under 25kW (about 33hp) at the crank for it to be legal for them to ride. That is a very large amount of power to lose given that an early FZR is going to be over 80hp at the back wheel (if in good condition) with an FZR600R being probably 10hp up on that.

All the best

Keith
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0l0dom0l0
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PostPosted: 15:25 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy the thundercat restrictors.

Fit them. Thunder cat uses 42mm carbs, hope the FZR has the same.

Then not worry about the rest. If you're really bothered get the bike dynoed and see what it comes out as and use this as proof the bike is restricted if stopped.

Washers make the bike run like shit regardless. They send the fuelling all over the place.
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CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.
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MattJ
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PostPosted: 16:54 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

A friend lost his license a couple of weeks ago, riding an early nineties CBR600, when the police stopped him he wasn't doing anything illegal. He never had the restrictors put in, so as much as a ball-ache it is, I'm getting it done.

Think I might go for those Thundercat ones. Do I just pop them in and that's it? When riding, would I be right in saying its a good idea not to try and rev the bike more than the restrictors allow? I imagine that wouldn't do the engine any good.

*Waits for Chives to chirp in that he'd rather chop his dick off than ride at 33bhp for the billionth time.*

Heard plenty of times that washers make the bike run crap, so another reason why I'm thinking about just using a throttle stop.

Oh and it's not completely standard, it has an aftermarket exhaust on but as far as I'm aware its not performance enhancing. It's 16 years old so it will have lost a few ponies too.

Thanks for your replies.




EDIT: Keith, I did try and contact that bloke on ebay, asking pretty much what you've said but he never replied.
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molex
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PostPosted: 16:58 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please download this two document read (kit. D)

https://www.fiinternational.com/FiResKitA42.pdf
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P.
Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 20:00 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You ride it as per normal.

Forget they are in there... just ride and forget about it Thumbs Up
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 20:12 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

MattJ wrote:
Do I just pop them in and that's it? When riding, would I be right in saying its a good idea not to try and rev the bike more than the restrictors allow? I imagine that wouldn't do the engine any good.


Pretty much.Worth making sure they are all aligned (as the holes in the washers are not central), and probably worth balancing the carbs.

The restrictors won't prevent it revving, just that it won't make useful power when revved. In effect no different to just not opening the throttle fully (takes very little throttle for a bike to hit the red line if there is no load on it).

All the best

Keith
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

molex wrote:
Please download this two document read (kit. D

Please stop posting misleading, illinformed information, & irrelevant external links; that prove only your own ignorance.

Please take note of Badger & Keith's comments, 'correcting' the potentially dangerous advice you have offered, and instead of asking US to read stuff, try reading up yourself on different types of fuel metering, engine design, and power theory!
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 20:59 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

MattJ wrote:

EDIT: Keith, I did try and contact that bloke on ebay, asking pretty much what you've said but he never replied.


I have sent him a message on the Bandit forum.

As it is Christmas people not replying to emails that quickly is pretty much expected.

All the best

Keith
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MattJ
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 28 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the very helpful replies. Shows how little I know about anything really. Laughing

I sent him an email a few weeks ago Keith, I think only a couple of days after I bought the bike which was the very beginning of December, but because I've not been in a rush I haven't sent another message yet. Thanks for messaging him on the Bandit forum. Thumbs Up
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



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PostPosted: 09:59 - 29 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

molex wrote:
Mr. Teflon-Mike
“Misleading, information” are come from UK this company.
If you have any question please inform them how to operate thank you very much.

FFS!

1/ You are NOT adding anything to the topic of value. We could all google restriction kits for ourselves IF we were interested.

2/ FI International have built thier business on 'snake oil' type dis-information; providing enough 'scientific reason' to sell thier products and make people BELIEVE they need them, without ACTUALLY telling the whole story, and DELIBERATELY mystifying the subject in order to HIDE the fact that ALL they are actually selling are over-priced penny washers.

They probably know more about power theory and fuel metering than I do, and I'm a fucking engineer, whose run test engines in the lab! They have NO interest in listening to me, even LESS changing thier sales blurb!

Meanwhile; YOU are providing DANGEROUSE suggestions, that could ruin some-one's engine!

TAKE NOTE: your HELP could 'help' some one get prosecuted for riding a bike they have no licence for; or 'help' them ruin the engine in thier 'pride & joy'.

Is this really a good idea?

You obviousely have enough knowledge to be dangerouse, but not enough wisdom to apply it safely.

HENCE: Consider Badger & Keith's comments; you do not have the expertise to be answering the OP's question; I suggest you try remidying THAT, rather than continuing to disseminate FI Internationals 'sales propaganda', to support your own, off the wall suggestions, to restrict a bike for UK Licence requirements with Blue-Peter sticky tape and glue!
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 11:37 - 29 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Not sure what a Japanese market 250 Bandit has to do with things, but if you read those you will see how the CV carbs work. The slide rises with the air flow (pressure of the air in the carb compared to atmospheric pressure moves the slide), and this lifts the needle. The slide shouldn't be limiting the air flow, that is the job of the throttle. So if you limit the amount the slide can lift you limit the needle, hence it cannot supply the fuel required when full throttle is being used.

When setting up carbs quite a few things can be changed, and Dynojet type kits do supply the bits to do this for an engine in a reasonable level of tune. With these kits the needle might change, the spring above the slide might change and the air hole into the slide might change. The needle directly changes the mixture, the spring controls how far the slide moves for a certain difference in pressures while the hole in the slide controls how quickly the slide moves. Dynojet spend quite a bit of time and effort on each individual model of bike experimenting to find out what works. Just bodging up one of these areas (such as just limiting the slides movement) is unlikely to work well and can easily result in the engine running dangerously lean in certain situations.

As to FI kits, virtually none of there kits do work by limiting the movement of the slide and entirely possible that of the few that do they also supply a different needle for some of them. Either way I would be pretty certain that they have done testing on that particular model on a dyno to check that not only is it producing 25kW but that the mixture is safe.

All the best

Keith
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 21:31 - 29 Dec 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

FI International restrictors for my bike were a set of washers and some short sections of plastic tube to sit ontop of the diaphragms to stop them lifting all the way. No change of needle.

But still, I think molex is talking shit. It's just not as simple as slapping something together.
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