Anyone know much about mountain bikes?

[hazza]

Hi,

Im new to MTB's, looking at a fun way to get fit without putting too much strain on my knee. I have been given a bike seen as im royally skint at the moment due to a house move (if it ever happens) which needs a few jobs doing to it. the main problem is the bearings seem to be shot in the crank as there is a lot of free play. The bike is of unknown make and hilst its not exactly competition spec, im hoping it will be okay for me to get my foot in the dorr so to speak. Im just wondering what measurements i would need to make in order to ensure correct fitment. It has shimano Derailleur's and shimano grip shift gears. the crank i have seen on ebay is a Shimano deore and comes with bottom braket.

Hi and thanks in advance

Harry.

P.s here it is awaiting strip down, try not to laugh too hard

https://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff501/harrybarfield/403735_10151106612815463_829420462_22533960_2088774924_n.jpg
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3 Honda NC50's(Sold)-->'72 Puch Maxi S (Sold, want it back!)--> '90 Yamaha RXS 100 (Stolen)--> '87 Honda Cub 90(Sold) --> '95 Kawasaki Eliminator (Sold) --> '98 Bandit 600 (Sold) -->'07 SV650S (Current)

[Marcg868]

Get the bottom bracket replaced, get this done by a local bike shop As its a complete ball ache to do at home. Whip said disc brakes off and put on a decent set of V brakes. As they will just add weight as they will be crappy cable disc brakes.

Or sell it, and find a Spesh Hard rock or Carrera Vulcan on ebay for £150. Much better and lighter bike and a frame worthy of upgrades.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/carrera-vulcan-disk-mountain-bike-LOOK-ltd-edition-QUICK-/160709463413?pt=UK_Bikes_GL&hash=item256b07cd75

Much better bike.
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JACK, MISS YOU LOADS YOU LEGEND.

[oldpink]

my idea of a mountain bike is
https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Gallery/KTM%20520EXC.jpg

going down hill on a pedal bike is ok but f*** peddling up them
I'm nearly 48
I'd be lucky to get up a mole hill if I had to peddle
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I have become comfortably numb

Theory & hazard 24-may 2016, CBT 8th June 2016, MOD 1 2nd Aug 2016 Mod 2 2nd-Nov 2016 - Current bike CBR 600 RR

[Walloper]

If it's a non branded bike the bearings will be bog standard race and ballroller type.

About a fiver each. You CAN do these yourself though.

They come in little kits with a tube of bearing grease included.
Halfords sell them.

Take the old ones down and they will help you get the right ones.

https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchCmd?srch=bike+bearings&department=all&action=search&storeId=10001&catalogId=10151&langId=-1

I would do the bottom bracket (what the pedals turn)
The head stock (What the handle bars turn are connected to.)
and both wheels.

Maybe need a chain too if the one fitted is all chewed up.
But you can probably get away with it as it is.

If you are running on the road get the tires pumped up to a high pressure. Too many folk run mountain bike tyres at Off-Road pressures 20-25PSI
These tires will easily take twice that 50-55 PSI.
The difference in pressure make the bike feel tewn times easier to push along the road.

Stick a cheap cycle computer on too It help you compare how fit you get as you use it. Cycle computers are about a <£10.

Keep to the low speed gears and don't push too hard or you'll blow the ligaments in your knees.
If it gets too heavy you can honk up hills but in a granny gear it is very difficult.
Do not be afraid to get off and push. It looks cooler that having your legs spinning like mad but the bike is moving at 2.5MPH better to walk.

The rule to efficient cycling is: Never push so hard that you cannot whistle a tune as you go.
If you don't know any tunes then you cannot ride a bike. Sorry.

Learn to read the road and do not ride the gutter. Get your arse out in the traffic and make them move out to pass you. Hiding in the gutter means following traffic may not see you early and you get pushed over like a dummy.

Lights and bright gear. Motorbikes have speed to keep up with traffic cycles don't Unless you are Chris Hoy.
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[james1988]

Hope you don't mind me hijacking your thread but it seemed fairly pointless starting a new thread of my own for two questions. The info in here has been a help to me and all

Could somebody recommend me a lock and chain. I'm considering cycling back and forth uni (40 mile round trip) and I don't particularly want to leave the bike there unsecure. It has a quick release from wheel (that's the only way I can explain it) so I'd imagine the chain would have to be long enough to go through the wheel, frame and an immovable object.

And will any tyres do or are there such things as harder compound tyres? It's a Reebok hard tail that I bought when it was on sale Argos for £120 from £300 so I didn't really take much notice of the spec as I thought it was a bargain.

Cheers,
James

/threadjack

[Walloper]

[hazza]

Hi,
Thanks for the info so far! I think by the sounds of it I'll get a bike shop to change the bottom bracket. It's not a no name bike, I took the stickers off as I intended to re paint the frame but now can't be bothered as it's not going to make me get any fitter and just cost more money. Selling it isn't really an option as I got it for free off family a few days ago. I do recall that when they had it though, it was 300 quid. The head and wheel beatings are in remarkably good shape, almost as new. Good call on the tyre pressures, I have took it out for a couple of 15 mile rides and I think it will lower the rolling resistance a great deal. /
The brakes seem adequate at the moment, plenty of power for stoppies and the rear wheel is easily locked. My intending was to just get a nice crankset and maybe a new rear shock if I can pick a half decent one up cheap off eBay and see how it goes. One with a lockout would be good as I intend some road riding as well as trail when I can get the bike to a decent venue!

Thanks guys! Loads mor help than theountain bike forum I asked the same question on!
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3 Honda NC50's(Sold)-->'72 Puch Maxi S (Sold, want it back!)--> '90 Yamaha RXS 100 (Stolen)--> '87 Honda Cub 90(Sold) --> '95 Kawasaki Eliminator (Sold) --> '98 Bandit 600 (Sold) -->'07 SV650S (Current)

[G]

Some cable discs are fine.

Do work out how much you're going to be spending - you may find it cheaper to get another bike with working stuff.

[JonB]

In the nicest possible way, don't bother putting any money into that. You'd be better off buying a cheap hardtail.
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Be careful whose advice you buy, but, be patient with those who supply it. Advice is a form of nostalgia, dispensing it is a way of fishing the past from the disposal, wiping it off, painting over the ugly parts and recycling it for more than it?s worth.

[stinkwheel]

As has been said, if you have a bad knee, spin lots.

A sealed bottom bracket is an absolute piece of piss to fit yourself but you do need the correct tool. You also need the correct tools to get the old one out.

I wouldn't let halfords put air in my tyres. They'd probably argue with me that they don't need air, then they'd have to order it in and when I got it back they would be filled with water and on backwards.

Bike shops are fucking awfull. Go in, say you want a sealed bottom bracket fitting to your mountain bike. If they say anything other than "No problem, when can you bring it in.". Walk away.

Other possible responses incluse a blank look, sucking through their teeth and saying it'll be expensive, claiming they have no time to do it before next month, saying they can't supply it unless you tell them what size it is, claiming there is no such thing or going out, having a wobble at it and telling you you need a new bike.

A bog-basic, entry level shimano sealed BB unit costs between £10 and £20. A good one costs in the region of £50. You can easily pay three times this. It is a half hour job absolute tops to fit one. That would be with me doing it leaning against the garage wall and would include taking out and putting away my tools.

EDIT: Also with a bad knee, it's a good idea not to coast. If you're going downhill, keep pedalling slowly even if you aren't actually pushing on the pedals. Keeps your muscles warmed up and your joints moving. Coasting is bad for you.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Walloper]

[Suntan Sid]

[hazza]

I quite agree, im not going to be entering competitions, just trying to get fit this year and my knee cant cope with any more than 5 mile runs without causing me to be in agony for the next day.

If i were to get into MTB's i would consider upgrading the frame, at which point i would already have a nice rear shock and a half decent, or at least functional drive train to go on it.

Im only looking to spend £60 ish max to get it nice, and with myself being a tit and getting a mortgage in the immediate future at 22 i cant afford to spend £200 all at once on a bike!
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3 Honda NC50's(Sold)-->'72 Puch Maxi S (Sold, want it back!)--> '90 Yamaha RXS 100 (Stolen)--> '87 Honda Cub 90(Sold) --> '95 Kawasaki Eliminator (Sold) --> '98 Bandit 600 (Sold) -->'07 SV650S (Current)

[G]

[KLR600]

[JonB]

[Walloper]

[jimspeed]

Some good advice in here so far, I too have just bought a bike as I am determined to lose some weight and get fitter this year.
I am selling my mountain bike as i have bought a hybrid road type bike instead as I cannot do any off road work due to my knee being buggered too (there is a theme here ) i thought a road based bike would be easier going and a bit faster.
any views on this
https://www.hawkcycles.co.uk/VIKING-URBAN-TRAIL-24-SPEED-3-3-product-39.html its what I bought and it seems a good bike for the money so far and much easier to pedal than the mountain bike its replacing.
just need the wind to drop down and I may even attempt to go to work on it as its only 4 miles away.
at this rate BCF will stand for Boys Cycling Fast lol
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Hyosung cruise 125(passed test on, sold) Kawasaki el 252 (better than expected but sold on) Kawasaki GPZ500S first "big"bike.(sold) ZZR600 E5..Z750 2007,ER5, currently on a 2008 Enfield bullet electra x and loving it..
,"Alpha-9: Is there any correlation between dyno rod and dyno kits?"

[Walloper]

Mountain bikes have tons of gear ratios and take more abuse than a road bike will.
Or that is what the core idea of a 'mountain bike' is.

You can sit up easier on a mountain bike too.

Get rat traps or locking pedals and the shoes to match.
This will massively increase your spin. Using muscles to pull the pedals up as well as pushing them down.

Read some book on cycling too for reference.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Richards-21st-Century-Bicycle-Book/dp/0330377175/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1325715442&sr=1-2
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[hazza]

So looking at what id need to spend on it to get it just working (around 40 quid myself, 55 fitted) ive been browsing the web for deals. Ive found one up for 80 quid but its old, about 1999-2000. Its a Scott vail and the guys offered me a set of rock shox forks for it for an extra 20 quid. He wants 80 for the bike but could see if i could haggle. what you think?
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3 Honda NC50's(Sold)-->'72 Puch Maxi S (Sold, want it back!)--> '90 Yamaha RXS 100 (Stolen)--> '87 Honda Cub 90(Sold) --> '95 Kawasaki Eliminator (Sold) --> '98 Bandit 600 (Sold) -->'07 SV650S (Current)