CG - starting issues?

[mudcow007]

Following on from one of my many other threads

i have now refitted the oil seal (hopefully the correct way around this time)

refitted fly wheel, connected genny back up, checked spark (bright blue - nice) went to try an kick the bike over....after 10mins i gave up

it splutters....then farts then doesn't start

pulled the plug an it was wet an black - me thinks flooded ?

ive cleaned the plug now so its sparkly (used scotchbrite cloth) ready to play tonight.

before i removed the flywheel an seal it woudl be reluctant to start but the plug has never looked black n wet before.

could i have done something when refitting the flywheel?

any ideas why its not easy to start?

ive tried choke fully open, half an closed

oh i also had to drop the oil to do the seal, an refill...if that has anything to do with it

[Alpha-9]

If you think it's flooded turn your fuel tap off, open the throttle all the way and kick the engine over a bunch

Blackness is carbon from running too rich generally, should be a nice brown colour

can't see how changing the seals would make it do that, sounds like carbs to me
____________________
Fzr-600 1999

[mudcow007]

i think its self doubt to be honest - the soggy plug may have been me giving it more juice to try an start the thing

i will try tonight

every time i read about CG's they seem to kick on the 3rd or forth attempt...mine takes about 5mins

i suppose it could do with a compression test me thinks.....

just a thought i have been running it without an airfilter - could that be the reason (if it is) its running rich?

[YBR Ric]

Running without an air filter will make it lean. Try running the plug tip over a gas ring for 5mins.

When a plug has been flooded the additives found in modern fuel can leave a residue behind
on the porcelain which permits the current to earth rather than jump the gap causing a spark.

[mudcow007]

cheers Ric will try that

thanks

[Alpha-9]

[mudcow007]

the bike is still really in bits, i had issues with the air filter having too much oil on, so just to get the bike going i removed the filter - its not like its on the road without a filter....im not that mental

[tomh]

Is your bike CDI or points? If its points double check its set correctly.

On a unrelated note, if it usually takes a lot kicks to get it started check your valve clearance.

When I got my CG there was no valve clearance at all and it would take multiple kicks to get going and then lots of throttle and full choke to get it to idle. Most likely to be your exhaust valve and if left unchecked could worst case cause low compression and cause the valve to overheat from not seating correctly.

[red5]

My boy had a similar problem with his. The first thing was a split in the pipe from his air box, the second was running with to much choke it started and run with no choke at all.

[zapmole]

Being a really wet spark plug I had simular problem I cleaned the carb out and fresh spark plug and it fired up . But when I tried another day had the same symptoms I would check the carb is correctly set up sounds like the pilot screw is too open or the air mixture is open to far !

Hope this helps
____________________
Honda CG 125 red 1991

[mudcow007]

evening all

thansk for all the suggestions...

right after my cleaning of the plug it started (after about 15 kicks)

weirdly it wouldn't start with the choke fully open, it seems to prefer half

my feeler gauges don't have the correct measurement for my bike so they are on my shopping list for tomorrow

does anyone have any idea how to set the correct tick over speed?

im sure someone said screw the screw all the way in, then 2 complete turns out - im probably wrong though

cheers!

[YBR Ric]

Good news it's running again.

With regards to the wrong type of gauges - I use 0.002",0.003" and 0.004" imperial feeler blades for use as a go-no-go gap check on the YBR.

The 3 and 4 for the inlet and the 4 and 5 (2+3) thou are used on the exhaust.

If the 3 is to tight on the inlet then the gap needs loosening, if the 4 slips through I tighten it. Likewise 4 & 5 on the exhaust.

This will keep my tappet clearance between 0.08mm* and 0.10mm on the inlet (specs are 0.08 and 0.12) and 0.10mm and 0.127mm on the exhaust ( specs are .10mm and 0.14mm)

* Technically the inlet size GO size is 0.076mm not 0.080 but as long as the 0.003" blade is a loose fit and not a sliding fit it won't be out of spec.

[YBR Ric]

For setting the idle speed the engine must be hot (go out for a 20minute run) the tappets set within specification, float height within spec and preferably with half a tank of petrol.

Screw the large throttle stop screw in to achieve a firm but even and faster than usual tickover. Adjust the smaller mixture screw in or out to increase the revs even more and leave it at the optimum position.

Screw out the throttle stop screw to reduce the revs slightly, tweak the mixture screw in an attempt to increase them back up again.

Keep doing this until you have achieved a very slow even tickover and a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn either way on the mixture screw will stall the bike.

Then having having set the mixture screw at the optimum position screw the throttle stop screw in to set the tickover within the recommended range.
Then add 1/8 turn to increase the richness of the mixture - this maybe clockwise or anti clockwise dependent on carb body design.
You may need one final tweak on the throttle stop screw if the revs have moved out of spec. after having slightly richened up the mixture.