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| GREENI3 |
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 GREENI3 World Chat Champion
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| Glenben92 |
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 Glenben92 Nearly there...

Joined: 01 Jul 2010 Karma :  
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 Posted: 09:37 - 06 Jan 2012 Post subject: |
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Nah mate, I'd steer clear of it if I were you. Just a good scrub with a toothbrush and some parrafin or petrol and then lube and go. ____________________ 57 Huoniao HN125-8 - , 97 Kawasaki GPZ500S -
99 Yamaha FZS 600 -
Mod 2 Passed - 01/10/2010 |
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| UrbanRacer |
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 UrbanRacer World Chat Champion

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| whitedevil |
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 whitedevil World Chat Champion

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| bikenut |
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 bikenut World Chat Champion
Joined: 21 Nov 2011 Karma :    
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 Posted: 13:00 - 06 Jan 2012 Post subject: chain cleaning |
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:karma: hi dudes no o rings so try the following:
change engine oil and save for this next bit,
old saucepan and camping cooker ( your mum or wife will go frigging beserk if you do this in the kitchen so DONT ) in shed,
observing all safety issues ( fire, very hot oil etc. )
place chain in pan, add oil to cover and heat gently.
watch for water trapped in chain as it will eventually boil off ( you know what happens with hot oil and water, right!!!!)
this will soften and remove some crap. allow to cool and remove from pan,
this bits mucky, wire brush, check that every link articulates smoothly.
drain 1st oil and clean pan ( lots of crap in bottom?? )replace chain into pan and add 2nd oil, repeat process. did you see columbs of rising rust and air bubbles, air from links and rust from pins and bores.
allow to cool and make sure every roller ROLLS.
drain 2nd oil and clean pan, add 3rd oil,replace chain and repeat.
allow to cool. now every link articulates and every roller rolls smoothly, yes??
clean pan ansd now add parre3ffin, clean in p[arraffin till it comes out clean, 3 goes before cleaning parraffin stops getting dirty??
last wash in petrol and hang to dry.
clean pan add chain and cover in ep90 or 140 gear oil and heat gently.
see bubbles rising, remember last wash was with petrol which will vapourise ( potential fire risk so be carefull, but you did let chain dry completely, yes?? )
when all bubbles gone and oil not too hot ( dont let g/oil smoke as its too hot when it does ( oxidise ), allow to cool completely, remove and let drip off excess.
as long as you are carefull ( petrol, paraffin, very hot oil and a cooking stove ) all will be ok.
this is tried and trusted, oil acts as shock absorber tween links and rollers, do every oil change for good chain life. Also carry on with 2 daily chain spray grease applications, thats lube chain once every 2 days |
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| UrbanRacer |
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 UrbanRacer World Chat Champion

Joined: 26 Jul 2005 Karma :     
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 Posted: 13:02 - 06 Jan 2012 Post subject: Re: chain cleaning |
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| bikenut wrote: |  hi dudes no o rings so try the following:
change engine oil and save for this next bit,
old saucepan and camping cooker ( your mum or wife will go frigging beserk if you do this in the kitchen so DONT ) in shed,
observing all safety issues ( fire, very hot oil etc. )
place chain in pan, add oil to cover and heat gently.
watch for water trapped in chain as it will eventually boil off ( you know what happens with hot oil and water, right!!!!)
this will soften and remove some crap. allow to cool and remove from pan,
this bits mucky, wire brush, check that every link articulates smoothly.
drain 1st oil and clean pan ( lots of crap in bottom?? )replace chain into pan and add 2nd oil, repeat process. did you see columbs of rising rust and air bubbles, air from links and rust from pins and bores.
allow to cool and make sure every roller ROLLS.
drain 2nd oil and clean pan, add 3rd oil,replace chain and repeat.
allow to cool. now every link articulates and every roller rolls smoothly, yes??
clean pan ansd now add parre3ffin, clean in p[arraffin till it comes out clean, 3 goes before cleaning parraffin stops getting dirty??
last wash in petrol and hang to dry.
clean pan add chain and cover in ep90 or 140 gear oil and heat gently.
see bubbles rising, remember last wash was with petrol which will vapourise ( potential fire risk so be carefull, but you did let chain dry completely, yes?? )
when all bubbles gone and oil not too hot ( dont let g/oil smoke as its too hot when it does ( oxidise ), allow to cool completely, remove and let drip off excess.
as long as you are carefull ( petrol, paraffin, very hot oil and a cooking stove ) all will be ok.
this is tried and trusted, oil acts as shock absorber tween links and rollers, do every oil change for good chain life. Also carry on with 2 daily chain spray grease applications, thats lube chain once every 2 days |
Buy a new chain  |
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| ninja_butler |
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 ninja_butler World Chat Champion
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| neil. |
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 neil. World Chat Champion

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| GREENI3 |
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 GREENI3 World Chat Champion
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| bikenut |
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 bikenut World Chat Champion
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| Babba |
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| Wafer_Thin_Ham |
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 Wafer_Thin_Ham Super Spammer

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 Wafer_Thin_Ham Super Spammer

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| ninja_butler |
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 ninja_butler World Chat Champion
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 Posted: 23:05 - 06 Jan 2012 Post subject: |
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This is starting to get complicated. I've read that petrol causes o rings (the rubber rings in some chains) to swell, but WD-40 does not.
Does anyone know what the correct procedure is for cleaning a bike chain? I just don't know any more!  |
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| Wafer_Thin_Ham |
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 Wafer_Thin_Ham Super Spammer

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| Babba |
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 Babba Banned
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 Posted: 23:26 - 06 Jan 2012 Post subject: |
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| Big_Ham wrote: |
How can it wash the grease out anymore than spraying a chain clean into the chain? |
I didn't get that deep into it, but I'm thinking that WD40 has a certain viscosity, it has an almost unique surfactant behaviour + it claims to be a penetrant (I believe differant).
I found that WD40 was far more successfull at washing out the grease from an 'O' or 'X' ring chain than either paraffin, petrol, diesel or trichloroethylene applied in a similar way.
I could spend several hours writing up "how best to look after your chain" but it's several hours I can't afford, here's my chain clean regime briefly . . .
Daily or after every ride, wipe with a paraffin soaked rag, wipe with a dry rag untill most of paraffin absorbed, check operation & fill level of Scottoiler, wipe with a chainsaw oil soaked rag.
I'm currently on 15k miles from a Tsubaki 530 'X' ring chain on my mk1 Bandit 1200 with only 1 adjustment so far. I've learned this regime from a chap who puts 40k+ a year on his bikes & he's been there, done that & got sick of forking out £120 on a new chain every 8k mls. |
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| whitedevil |
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 whitedevil World Chat Champion

Joined: 28 Nov 2010 Karma :   
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 Posted: 00:12 - 07 Jan 2012 Post subject: |
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| Big_Ham wrote: |
Neither will WD40, and I really wish people would stop peddling this load of cobblers.
https://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345397
WD40 is kerosene based and is kind to nearly everything on your bike.
It
Doesn't
Swell
O-Rings
(Interestingly according to the above, PJ1 chain lube swells the O-rings more.  ) |
Did you even read the info in the link?
If you had you would have seen that wd-40 isnt based on kerosene, it does swell and weaken rubber. It also acts as a penetrator and will creep passed o rings if given the chance.
I'll try and find the guide i read a few years ago. ____________________ GPZ500 sold ~ CBR600FS-2 sold ~ ZX6R sold ~ Street Triple R |
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| The Tot |
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 The Tot World Chat Champion

Joined: 11 Jun 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 00:23 - 07 Jan 2012 Post subject: |
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I use white spirit or paraffin on mine.
I'm making the assumption that the chains are made out of nitrile rubber. Being that I work as a materials engineer, we did some experiments with various rubber compounds and solvents to see which are deleterious to the seals - we're talking O-ring seals here, but not for chains, more like nuclear reactor/plant related components.
Either way, we dug up a compatibility chart to see if it's compatible.
With a rough gestimation regarding the composition of WD40 (they won't list all the ingredients - it could be "other %" that might be detrimental, but here's what the facts say.
51% Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits: primarily hexane, somewhat similar to kerosene)
25% Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)
15+% Mineral oil (light lubricating oil)
10-% Inert ingredients
Elastomers with Good Compatibility:
Buna-N (Nitrile)
Chemraz
Epichlorohydrin
Fluorocarbon
Fluorosilicone
Kalrez
Nitrile, hydrogenated
Polyacrylate
Teflon
Theory says that it's OK but empirical evidence suggests otherwise. The only way for us to tell is to do a soak test. Get a link, pack it with grease and insert O-Ring. Leave submersed in WD40 film and see what happens.
Could it be that it's the propellant in the aerosol that degrades the rubber? ____________________ The Tot 2019 Z1000SX - 2007 R1
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| Wafer_Thin_Ham |
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 Wafer_Thin_Ham Super Spammer

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| janner_10 |
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 janner_10 World Chat Champion

Joined: 26 Sep 2011 Karma :     
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 Posted: 20:22 - 07 Jan 2012 Post subject: Re: chain cleaning |
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| bikenut wrote: |  hi dudes no o rings so try the following:
change engine oil and save for this next bit,
old saucepan and camping cooker ( your mum or wife will go frigging beserk if you do this in the kitchen so DONT ) in shed,
observing all safety issues ( fire, very hot oil etc. )
place chain in pan, add oil to cover and heat gently.
watch for water trapped in chain as it will eventually boil off ( you know what happens with hot oil and water, right!!!!)
this will soften and remove some crap. allow to cool and remove from pan,
this bits mucky, wire brush, check that every link articulates smoothly.
drain 1st oil and clean pan ( lots of crap in bottom?? )replace chain into pan and add 2nd oil, repeat process. did you see columbs of rising rust and air bubbles, air from links and rust from pins and bores.
allow to cool and make sure every roller ROLLS.
drain 2nd oil and clean pan, add 3rd oil,replace chain and repeat.
allow to cool. now every link articulates and every roller rolls smoothly, yes??
clean pan ansd now add parre3ffin, clean in p[arraffin till it comes out clean, 3 goes before cleaning parraffin stops getting dirty??
last wash in petrol and hang to dry.
clean pan add chain and cover in ep90 or 140 gear oil and heat gently.
see bubbles rising, remember last wash was with petrol which will vapourise ( potential fire risk so be carefull, but you did let chain dry completely, yes?? )
when all bubbles gone and oil not too hot ( dont let g/oil smoke as its too hot when it does ( oxidise ), allow to cool completely, remove and let drip off excess.
as long as you are carefull ( petrol, paraffin, very hot oil and a cooking stove ) all will be ok.
this is tried and trusted, oil acts as shock absorber tween links and rollers, do every oil change for good chain life. Also carry on with 2 daily chain spray grease applications, thats lube chain once every 2 days |
WTF?? I scrub with petrol and a gunk brush and apply engine oil, 10 minute job every week or two. This is just farting about for the sake of it. ____________________ Yamaha FZS600 (Now gone to heaven) > CBR600F4i (SOLD) > '99 YZF-R1 |
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| bikenut |
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 bikenut World Chat Champion
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| P.addy |
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 P.addy Red Rocket
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| Wafer_Thin_Ham |
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 Wafer_Thin_Ham Super Spammer

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| anthony_r6 |
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 anthony_r6 World Chat Champion

Joined: 31 Mar 2011 Karma :    
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 Posted: 22:21 - 08 Jan 2012 Post subject: |
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So... WD40...
Good, or No?
 ____________________ Ted : "Maybe he's agoraphobic."
Dougal : "Jack scared of fighting? I don't think so, Ted." |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 14 years, 182 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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