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Removing Wheel Bearings?

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johnsmith222
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Joined: 26 Dec 2008
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PostPosted: 14:18 - 20 Jan 2012    Post subject: Removing Wheel Bearings? Reply with quote

HI guys.

How do you remove a wheel bearing if the inner diameter of the bearing is the same as the diameter of where the spindle goes through?

What I mean is, there's no lip to tap the bearing out from. Everything is flush.

I take it lots of heat and keep cracking with a screwdriver until it moves out a bit and creates a lip?
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bwprice100
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Joined: 11 Dec 2011
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PostPosted: 14:25 - 20 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

.
Hi there is enough of a radius on the edge of the bearing to get a blind bearing puller in behind the bearing and then it will slide hammer out.

Always heat the surrounding metal as well.

Brian
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johnsmith222
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PostPosted: 14:31 - 20 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

bwprice100 wrote:
.
Hi there is enough of a radius on the edge of the bearing to get a blind bearing puller in behind the bearing and then it will slide hammer out.

Always heat the surrounding metal as well.

Brian


Oh dear, I just have a bearing driver set. Laughing
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bwprice100
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PostPosted: 14:38 - 20 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

.
I have heard some people have had some success in making one from one of those expanding anchor bolts they sell in B+Q a length of thread bar and some nuts (the hexagon type)

Just remember when you are out in the middle of the Kalahari and something breaks, you make a plan and improvise. Smile

Brian
____________________
www.eBolt.co.uk www.ToolRoomChucks.co.uk
My bikes 1956 BMW R26 250cc, !981 BMW R80 (was a TIC ex plod), 1994 R100RT, sold my 1981 Yam XS 250
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Fizzer Thou
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Joined: 06 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: 14:41 - 20 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

When installing new bearings remember to put the new ones in the freezer the night before and to warm the bearing housing before installing the new ones.
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johnsmith222
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 20 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just realised you can move the inner bit about to get a lip.

Flat screwdriver and a hammer for some "careful persuasion" is the way.

Thanks guys. Laughing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1IRBsoeULwA

For anyone reading this and thinking of doing the same. Just be aware you can damage your wheel so be careful. Thumbs Up
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bwprice100
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PostPosted: 15:16 - 20 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

.
No substitue for 'Brute force and ignorance' unless it's a bigger hammer Smile
____________________
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My bikes 1956 BMW R26 250cc, !981 BMW R80 (was a TIC ex plod), 1994 R100RT, sold my 1981 Yam XS 250
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johnsmith222
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PostPosted: 18:05 - 20 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right guys.

That's me got the new bearings fitted. The only problem is that I can't turn the inner race with my fingers. I think the hollow pole that's inside my wheel is gripping against the inner race and that's why it won't turn.

I must have put them in too tight.

Damn.

What do I do now?

EDIT: I just put the wheel on the spindle just holding it in my hands. No brake discs attached. I got a pal to spin it and it did over 30 rotations. But then it could very well just be because it's greased up. Does this sound ok?
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stinkwheel
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 20 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Both inner races are SUPPOSED to grip the tube up the middle.

When you tighten everything down in the frame, the whole lot (spindle, nut, wheel spacers, inner races and spacer tube) should be compressed together to act as one solid, stationary piece around which the wheel rotates on the ball bearings.

So clamp it in place, leave the calliper off and give it a spin. It ought to spin and continue spinning through several rotations. If it's rough or stiff, you've done something wrong (most likely deformed a dust shield).

You did drive them in using the outer race yeah?
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johnsmith222
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PostPosted: 23:56 - 20 Jan 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Both inner races are SUPPOSED to grip the tube up the middle.

When you tighten everything down in the frame, the whole lot (spindle, nut, wheel spacers, inner races and spacer tube) should be compressed together to act as one solid, stationary piece around which the wheel rotates on the ball bearings.

So clamp it in place, leave the calliper off and give it a spin. It ought to spin and continue spinning through several rotations. If it's rough or stiff, you've done something wrong (most likely deformed a dust shield).

You did drive them in using the outer race yeah?


Phew, that's a relief.

Yeah, I used the biggest bearing driver bit that would fit without actually getting stuck with the bearing.

Thanks stinkwheel. All makes sense to me. The wheel will be going back on tomorrow and I'll post if I have any problems. Thumbs Up

Thanks stinkwheel. Top man. Thumbs Up
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