Removing seized bolts

[TheSmiler]

Trying to work on the bike today but stuck with seized bolts (jammed on) can't get them off any one got any methods of removing them

Tried wd40 but no affect.
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CB125>CG125>GN125>ER5>K100RS>R1100RS>K100RS
A2 completed 23/07/15 Ready for the Golden Crisp Packet

[.....]

Got access to the bolt and can get a socket on it?

Breaker bar, penetrating oil, impact wrench and heat. One of those or a combination will usually get things moving.

[TheSmiler]

[P.addy]

Buy..

A decent socket set
A newer bike

Choice is yours

I have a basic socket set here... when I go to my dads, his sockets feel so much nicer, work so much better and seem to get the jobs done, mine need some serious throwing away

[Frost]

WD40 is a water repellent and cleaner designed for electronics.
If you're going to try penetrating oil, buy some penetrating oil and read the instructions carefully.

A seized bolt is only an issue as the head might not be able to take as much force as the thread needs to undo it. Cleaning up the head and using the best tool possible helps massively. In order of crap -> best i'd say it goes:
Flat head screw
Phillips screw
Spanner
Allen key
Torx
Ring spanner
Socket

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/00/Socket_wrench_and_sockets.JPG

Only use sockets like those that grip on the flats, not the corners.

https://www.diytools.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/4/image/400x400/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/b/r/britool-socket-12-point-standard-3-8-in-drive-13mm.JPG

Avoid that shit like the plague. Also avoid using extensions or universal joints like the one pictured above. If you must use an extension push it on to the bold as hard as you can and don't let it lean.

https://www.audiworld.com/tech/pics/wheel45_DSC03275.jpg
A solid breaker bar won't have a ratchet that you can break and will have a longer handle and will probably allow you to stick something even longer on the end like a bit of pipe.
Some threads get seized in place and though they don't need much force to undo, they need a large amount of force to get them moving initially. A sharp tap with a lump hammer on the breaker bar can sometimes free them right away.

If they still don't want to move it's time to heat things up with a torch as much as you dare. Obviously this will melt plastics and alloy if you get it hot enough.

As a last resort you can cut to head off the bolt. This will allow you to remove whatever was bolted down and will take all the pressure off the thread. Chances are it'll then only be finger tight, but if not you'll have to fight to get it out either with a stud extractor, by filing flats onto it, or if you have enough thread visible you can put 2 nuts onto it, tighten them onto each other then undo the thread using the bottom nut whilst continuing to apply pressure to doing up the top one

[TheSmiler]

[Ichy]

You'll have to PM me your location. Your welcome to use my socket set and I'm stuck in the house decorating (again).
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https://www.metacafe.com/watch/1972097/how_to_behave_on_a_forum/

[P.addy]

Fully agree with Frost

Use breaker bars when it comes to wheel nuts on the car at 120nm... the "spider" doesn't help

Often use old exhaust pipe as additional leverage if its seriously stuck.

Your best bet is some hardcore tools, even if you have the basic wrench and a few often used sizes 10mm-16mm and grab other ones when you need.

Oh and a hair-dryer will do nothing but dry your hair and warm your hands

[TheSmiler]

[P.addy]

Make your next purchase some form of decent socket set, even the halfords professional kit is fairly decent

[whitedevil]

All an adjustable wrench is good for is causing pain and misery. Could also make a good hammer in a pinch
____________________
GPZ500 sold ~ CBR600FS-2 sold ~ ZX6R sold ~ Street Triple R

[TheSmiler]

[Werny]

That's a man's hammer right there Smiler. With that in your possession there should be no job you can't do

*edit for some actual useful advice*

Frost has pretty much covered all the important stuff, but I would add to his final point about cutting the bolt head off. Normally bolt heads are in awkward places, making a saw impossible to use to get the head off. Even if you can get a saw to it, don't do that. The easiset way to remove a bolt head is to drill into the center of the bolt, use a drill smaller than the head but larger than the thread size. Once you have drilled through the head it will just come off, still stuck to your drill bit, and as Frost said it should be easier to remove the stud with the pressure off the thread. It is kind of a last resort though.

[Frost]

The halfords pro socket sets are good, but invest in a decent set of these too:

https://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00GvtQjLosbSpZ/Impact-Socket-Adapter.jpg
I've lost count of the number of broken 1/4 inch adapters i've seen. I bought a Facom one that's lasted me years.

[Babba]

Another thing that's often overlooked by the newbie, is that where there is more than 1 fastener holding something, you should never undo & completely remove any untill they are all undone.

If you have say an engine cover held on by 4x Allen head bolts, if you undo & remove all tension from 1, 2 & 3 then 4 is likely going to be a right bastard.

Cross head screws in brake/clutch reservoir caps are a classic example, you should 'crack' both off, no more than 1/4 turn before fully undoing them.

[demon9374]