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White smoke after 8-10 hrs of idle time

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ukd204
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PostPosted: 13:36 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: White smoke after 8-10 hrs of idle time Reply with quote

Hi,

I have a pulsar-150 DTSI and it's just 1 year old.I did last servicing in last week and new self motor and clutch assembly were fitted.After the servicing I am facing this serious problem.In morning and evening,when I start my bike,heavy white colored smoke comes for only for 1 min then it disappears.Smoke is having some smells of raw oil.It only happens when bike is idle for long time.What can be the problem.Please suggest.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 13:42 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm more interested in how you find time to ride it if it idles for 8-10 hours?
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 13:44 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just checking, is it a two stroke and does it use an oil pump or do you add oil to the petrol?
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ukd204
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those 10 hrs I work in my office.
Suggest something if you are familiar with this issue.
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ukd204
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PostPosted: 13:49 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a 4 stoke petrol engine.
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.....
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PostPosted: 13:49 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's a four stroke then it sounds like your valve stem seals are leaking then burning off the oil when you start it it.
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-Savage-
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PostPosted: 13:51 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could just be steam. Put something cold in the way of the white gas, like a mirror or something that the steam can condense on. If there is water on the object,then it's just water burning off as the exhause heats up.
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ukd204
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PostPosted: 13:52 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

but why the smoke disappears after 1 min..If problem is in valve,then oil should leak continuously and smoke should come out continuously..
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ukd204
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PostPosted: 13:55 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not steam bcos it smells like raw oil...it only happens when I start bike after a long time and that prevails only for 1 min..
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 13:56 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

ukd204 wrote:
but why the smoke disappears after 1 min..If problem is in valve,then oil should leak continuously and smoke should come out continuously..


Not true. The amount that is leaking is very small and would be burn't off without you noticing during normal riding. The time the the bike is sat outside allows for the oil to pool up around the valve and in the cylinder. After a minute or two this would burn off.

As suggested I will now shut up.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

ukd204 wrote:
but why the smoke disappears after 1 min..If problem is in valve,then oil should leak continuously and smoke should come out continuously..


If the seals are worn / damaged, when you park the bike up there is oil pumped up to the top of the engine so the seals likely have some puddle of oil on top of them. Parked for a good few hours a fair amount of this will get past the seal, down the valve and into the head and barrel, burning off when you first start the engine.

You will likely also get a bit of oil burnt while the engine is running, but far less as there is less time for it to occur. If it is on the inlet side then it will likely also draw in a load if you shut the throttle from high rpm.

All the best

Keith
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ukd204
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PostPosted: 13:59 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah..whatever you r saying might be true..so what should I do to eliminate this issue and how much will it price ?
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 14:01 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

White smoke isn't oil, oil burns blue. Lots of white smoke for one minute isn't a problem it is because it is fecking cold. My Speed Four does it loads in this weather. I assume it is condensation in the exhausts.

Most bike and cars for that matter will do it in this weather.
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ukd204
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PostPosted: 14:04 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris,

It's not the condensation what I feel.Bcos I already said that smoke is really heavy for 1 min and it smells like raw oil.It might be for oil leaking.What is the remedy of this ? Please suggest.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 14:07 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

ukd204 wrote:
yeah..whatever you r saying might be true..so what should I do to eliminate this issue and how much will it price ?


Assuming it is the seals, new seals will fix it, which means taking the head off (there are ways to do this without taking the head off, but realistically not with home equipment), getting the valve collets off and springs out of the way. However if the problem is that the guides are worn then at best new seals will only help for a short while and new valve guides will be required.

All the best

Keith
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

ukd204 wrote:
Chris,

It's not the condensation what I feel.Bcos I already said that smoke is really heavy for 1 min and it smells like raw oil.It might be for oil leaking.What is the remedy of this ? Please suggest.


I'd leave it for a while but keep an eye on the oil level, make sure it is going down before doing anything else. My Triumph is the Same the Smoke is really heavy but once it has warmed up it is fine. If it is oil the smoke will be blue.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 16:12 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

1/ May we presume english is not your first language?
This might be making the diagnosis of your fault & our questionable humor more difficult. Fault on our part; your English is far better than the few words of any second language I have ever managed!
2/ Where in the world are you located?
Chennai? Southern India? I guess your climate is quite different to ours, and cold to you is likely to have different references to ours here in the UK!

'smoke' on start up is entirely normal.
Bikes are generally started on 'choke' an enrichment circuit putting an excess of fuel into the engine to help it warm up. This makes 'some' extra smoke.

Some start up smoke will almost certainly be 'steam'. The fuel & air burn to produce a mixture of exhaust gasses, which significantly contain a fairly high proportion of Carbon-Di-Oxide and water.
One of the simplest fuels is Methane CH4, which burns in O2 entirely to CO2 + H2O. Petrol is a much more complicated Hydrocarbon fuel, and burning under much more extreme and less ideal conditions in an engine, so a greater proportion of Carbon-Monixide is produced, but the 'main' exhaust gasses are still CO2 & H2O.

On a cold engine, the water 'made' by burning fuel, will 'condense' on the cold metal walls of the exhaust, and many exhaust systems have small condensation vents in the lower portion of the pipe to drain any H2O that actually collects in the liquid state.

Much though will be expelled, as 'water vapour' small droplets of liquid water, held in suspension in the gas, as well as actual gaseouse 'steam'.

Water is also a 'usual' component of 'air' occurring as 'humidity' and water vapour suspensed in air, will also tend to 'mist' in clouds' when the air is 'warmed' by hot exhaust gasses, the same as your breath, on a cold day, in damp Englans, will cause a 'fog' infront of your face.

More 'smoke', even on a brand new engine, will be caused by lubricating engine oil being burned in the combustion chamber.

The engine needs some lubrication on the cylinder walls, and on the valve stems, and very small amounts of oil residue will get into the combustion chamber.

If the cylinder wall or the piston rings are excessively worn, or as suggested, the valve stem seals valve stems or valve guides are excessively worn, THEN an excessive amount of oil CAN contaminate the 'charge' and lead to a 'smokey' engine.

After a period of not running, oil left in the valve gear compartment of the engine above the combustion chamber, can drip down past the valve stem into the combustion chamber, and be quickly burned off in the first few moments of running the engine on start up.

More excessively worn engines will also burn oil left on the cylinder walls or forced past the piston rings during running.

Worn valve guides often give the symptom of smoking more heavily on 'over run' when the engine is decelerating, with teh throttle closed, as oil is sucked down the valve stem, under the higher inlet manifold vacuum.

Worn bores, will tend to give the symptom of smoking more heavily under hard acceleration, when the crank case pressure of the accelerating engine forces more oil past the piston rings.

All engines 'smoke'.

The colour of smoke, varies. When we talk about the colour of exhaust gasses:

'white' is normally associated with steam or water vapour.

'Blue' with burned engine oil

'Black' with excess fuel.

But this should not be talken litterally! The smoke is always going to be a sort of 'grey' colour; we are looking for 'tints' to that basic colour, and it can sometimes be difficult to distinguish exactly what the symptoms are from the colour alone.

You say that you can smell 'oil' in the smoke.

It was asked early; whether your bike was a two-stroke that would have a 'total-loss' lubrication system, 'light' oil being pumped into the engine to be burned with the charge after lubricating crank case bearings, or added directly to the fuel.

This may NOT be a dead end, having explained that your bike is a four-stroke; as you live in Southern India.

It has been a long time since I was there; BUT, when I was, apart from the inevitable Enfields, MOST motorbikes, were Indian built copies of Yamaha RSX100 or Honda H100 two strokes; and petrol stations, actually had people that put the petrol into your tank for you, unlike here in the UK, where we have to do it ourselves.

In some rural parts of the country I visited; the 'petrol station' was not like ours here in the UK, with bulk delivered fuel in containers and electric pumps to measure it into vehicles... it was delivered in 25gallon 'jerry-cans' and decanted from these into vehicles, outside the local 'General Store'.

How are you buying your petrol?

Could your fuel be contaminated?

Could an ignorant shop-keeper be filling your petrol tank with pre-mixed two-stroke petrol?

IS the fuel in your part of the world, mineral oil 'petrol', or is it locally blended, and pottentially containing a high proportion of vegatable derived alchohol distillate?

These things could all be effecting the 'smell' of the smoke.....

Other wise, 'best guess' is down to a worn valve stem seal; BUT, we do need to be clearer on the symptoms and to eliminate some possibilities before we can offer better suggestions.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

way to go Mikey. That's how a pro kills a thread. Laughing

The fact that the clutch and 'self starter' needed changing after one year suggests that the OP either does very high mileage or the build quality was poor from the beginning. He also mentioned that the problem started after he serviced it. Maybe it has too much oil in it and a bit is blowing past the rings or travelling into the air filter through a breather?
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ukd204
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 13 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's called "height of knowledge sharing"..Anyway guys,being a mechanical engineer,I knew the basics about the engine operations,cycles and all that.After seeing the exhaust smoke,it's clearly understood that is not at all related with steam.During fitting the clutches,those mechanics did something wrong with the valves hence some engine oil leaks into the combustion chamber.If the piston rings,valves are worn out,problems could be seen earlier also.engine oil level is going down certainly but not drastically.
I am wondering about the expenses,if they suggest for valve/piston ring change. Sad Sad Sad
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ukd204
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PostPosted: 04:47 - 14 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

_Iain_ wrote:
Quote:
being a mechanical engineer,I knew the basics about the engine operations,cycles and all that


During fitting the clutches,those mechanics did something wrong with the valves
Quote:


In which case, please explain to me what the fuck kind of engine has the valves removed, re adjusted or re set up to have someone change a clutch? Confused

Assuming it was a four stroke, then the only reason i can see of the valves being interfered with would be either:

re timing the engine due to replacement of the cambelt/chain, removing the head or simmilar

Adjusting the valve clearances as part of a service/overhaul

Or possibly if they had the head off, & took the valves out to lap them back in or something simmilar.


Either way not related to the clutch Neutral

But then again, if you swear blind you know whats wrong with it then go fix it instead of telling everyone that they're wrong.

I am not an expert and not a dumb listener..I may have some thoughts and just sharing that...anyway thanks to all of u for ur valuable time and comments..let's drop the topic and kill this thread.

[/quote]
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Billing
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PostPosted: 05:20 - 14 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

How though?

As said, the valves don't need to be touched at all to change the clutch, so they can't have done something with them when they change the clutch Confused
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 09:52 - 14 Feb 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL


Fix clutch
Take casings off you don't need to take off
Fuck Valves
?????
Profit


You do know the valves are nowhere near the clutch and it is actually impossible to fuck the valves while sorting the clutch.

It would require an extra hours labour at least to do that.

I stand by my original statement of condensation.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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