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cg125 clutch problem

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achan1989
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 06 Mar 2012
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PostPosted: 12:50 - 06 Mar 2012    Post subject: cg125 clutch problem Reply with quote

This might be a long one, problem first then circumstances around it...

When I pull the clutch fully in and change to first, it's as if I've barely pulled the clutch in - bike lurches forwards, engine stalls.
If I adjust the cable at the engine end I can get it less severe, but then I get major clutch slip when I try to move off.

A week or so ago I put the bike down on the right side going round a corner. I don't think there was any serious damage - I only bent a footpeg as far as I can see, but maybe there's something I've missed?
I also used the downtime to do an oil change. For unrelated reasons it was drained pretty thoroughly (over a few days).

This happened this morning, the first time I tried to ride it since the "crash" and oil change. Any idea what's going on?
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bikenut
World Chat Champion



Joined: 21 Nov 2011
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 07 Mar 2012    Post subject: cg clutch Reply with quote

:karma: hi dude,

so bike in regular use and clutch ok prior to crash, but missbehaving since( on way home from crash ), so you changed the oil mwhich was black and dirty with no bits in the oil??

footpeg bent and punctured the clutch casing?? leaking oil?? or not leaking oil but burst ( cracked ) inwards??

clutch cable and mechanism free ( not stiff and in need of lub and service )??

pics of clutch cover may be good with feedback for the site....
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Rogerborg
nimbA



Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 12:47 - 07 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have a good look at the arm on the clutch cover. Is it moving freely when you pull the lever?

Is it bent and fouling on the cover, or is its travel being limited? Is cable kinked or fouling on anything?
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 13:42 - 07 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you went down on the Right Hand side, then the primary drive cover can get 'holed'. Normally not the foot-peg, but by the brake pedal.
Often sits with the pedal head close to teh bottom of teh casing, and the inside is quite 'sharp'.. had to repair a couple of Super-Dream cases with holes in exactly the place where the pedal head would 'strike'.
So first of check for oil leaks.
Next up; the clutch actuation mechanism sits in the primary drive cover over the end of the clutch basket.
The cable from the handle-bar lever comes down from the hand-lever, goes to a bracket on the primary drive cover then tugs a lever on a shaft going through the primary drive cover.
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/Little%20Dreams/LD07%20Eng%20Build/100_0496.jpg
That shaft sits on bosses cast inside the cover, and between them is a lever/rocker that bears on the clutch release rod.
IF the casing has taken a hefty smack; then a few imediate faults spring to mind:-
1/ The Casing has been damaged and the rocker has 'slipped' on the actuation shaft.
2/ The actuation rod has been dislodged from its seat on the rocker
3/ (& possibly the most likely) The actuation rod has 'bent'
4/ The casing is damaged and the actuation shaft is bent or the bosses it sits in are cracked.

THIS is presuming that the crash & the clutch fault are connected... MAY be entirely co-incident, and you had a worn out clutch before & oil-change has simply shown up the problem, or post crash adjustment.

EITHER WAY: the answer is to pull the primary drive cover off and have as shuftie.

SNOWIE (Keep getting told off when people thank me for her efforts!) Has written a Handy How to on overhauling the small-honda clutch:-

HOW2: Overhaul Clutch (Small Honda's +)

Walks you through the process of removing & replacing drive cover, and stripping the clutch mechanism, & if needs be replacing clutch plates and springs.

Clutch plates & Springs are about £15, and mention is made of a castle nut socket; which we made, first time around, but 'propper' honda tool is available from Riders of Yeoville, (Cheap source of plates & springs too) for about £12, to make the job easier.

So for £30 you could overhaul the basket while you were in there, which as little learner bikes tend to get a lot of clutch abuse, may be worth-while preventative maintenence / piece of mind, anyway.

But pay close attension to the actuation mechanism in the casing when you remove it, and the actuation rod that goes through the middle of the clutch.

Take it out, get a nice flat surface and roll it around make sure its not bent.
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achan1989
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 06 Mar 2012
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 07 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick follow-up: old oil was relatively clean, clutch cable and mechanism work smoothly, and the casing looks ok on the outside at least...

I'm gonna pop the case this weekend, new clutch plates and all that jazz. That's a great looking guide Smile
Thanks for the advice everyone.
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