R6 Dyno

[stranger12]

Hi ,

I thought I share my dyno graph here

My bike is pretty much standard with k&n filter ( stoke not cone shape) and sp engineering straight can .

It produced 103 hp at best with baffle in and wopping 110 bhp without it

The baffle is not going back


What do you reckon the power at crank is , what is the loss from crank to wheel ?


apart from DIN which recognised the wheel rpm, what other methos are available ?

Many thanks

It is the 2005 r6 5sl


https://i61.tinypic.com/1xz87l.jpg
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SV650 Red
R6 Red

[serlant]

Looks a bit lean??
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04 CBR1000RR, 1995 Husqvarna TE410, 1998 VTR1000(Sold), 1990 XJ600(sold), 1996 KH125(dead and sold)

[stranger12]

someone had changed the picture, I swear it was the dyno chart not this pretty girl

here it is

The bike looks too lean from 0 to 8k rpm, is that dangerous ? can it cause engine damage ?

https://i61.tinypic.com/1xz87l.jpg
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SV650 Red
R6 Red

[P.]

Windows XP though.

[Matt B]

[stranger12]

that is their os not mine

It was doing 102 with baffle in . do you reckon my bike with standard exhuast will produce a higher bhp than a sport one with baffle in ?

this is because if the standard is same as with baffle then my bike theoritically only has 115 bhp rather than 124
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SV650 Red
R6 Red

[Matt B]

Remember - dynos can be inaccurate (especially with outdated software ) and runs can be influenced by ambient temperature for one. Different dyno on a different day could give you another set of numbers.

Claimed crank power for a certain bike can vary between what the manufacturer would have us believe and true power.

Engines lose power with age and mileage relative to how they have been treated and maintained.

Add all these things added together mean it's impossible to say 'what if this' and 'how about compared to'. Your bike, from this run, looks about right so forget the power runs and use the data to make sure it is fuelling correctly with the setup you want to run.
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stinkwheel: He had an animated .gif of a cat performing fellatio. It's not socially acceptable. It can have real life adverse effects on other people.

[stevo as b4]

I'd use about 15% for arguments sake on a chain driven bike with an in-line transverse engine layout, to add to the wheel power figure. The thing is as Matt said dyno's can vary hugely, so you cannot be certain unless you dyno'd using several different dyno's of the same brand and model to get a workable average.

I'm no expert, but I would expect that if you could map the fueling from tickover to max rpm under load and stay at around 13:1 you would make a gain in drivability and throttle response. Best power air/fuel ratio is always a little bit richer of stoichiometric, but not too rich so that throttle response is not woolly, and obviously at WOT and high rpm, you generally run a touch richer than theoretically ideal, to keep things cool enough not to melt.