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spark plug snapped in head!

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spitfire123
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PostPosted: 04:16 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: spark plug snapped in head! Reply with quote

hi all,
doing a full rebuild on a 95 ninja 600. shes in a bad way to be fair needs alot of work.


Right.. the spark plug holes were all corroded up but cleaned all out.. managed to get 3 plugs out fine and on the last one its boody snapped!!

the engine ran as sweet as a nut before anr REALY don want to ake the head off..... Confused

is there any way of removing it not taking the head off.

cheers
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Dazbo666
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PostPosted: 04:28 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there any way to get a deep socket over the remainder of the plug?? or has the hex part of the plug come out already??

[edit] or maybe even use something like a bolt extractor... very carefully
https://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/mbx5.jpg


I'm sure there's other members with more info, or pro experience
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spitfire123
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PostPosted: 04:48 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi mate,
there is no bolt left just the thread burried in the head.

i will get a pic when my phone charges. but it is litraly the thread in there with some white porcoline showing thats it.

and bearing in mine its 2-3" in the head it makes it even harder to get at!

thanks for your help.
apriciated Thumbs Up
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ZebraDriver
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PostPosted: 07:19 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Head off, smash last bits of porcelain out, use screw extractor to wind the last bit of thread out. Wind it out from the outside, so that a damaged bit of thread on the plug does not destroy the thread in the head (assuming the thread is still ok). A 12 point socket will fit over the head of a screw extractor to allow you access down the plug hole

Try using vinegar on the threads first (it breaks down the corrosion that happens between steel and aluminium) a long soak will help. If the thing is still tight try some heat on the head and quench the broken part to "thermal shock" it.

You may find that nothing works - screw extractors are not good on thin walled stuff - they tend to splay the thing out and lock it tighter. In this case you need to get an eengineering shop to bore out what is left and helecoil the head, but a second hand head may be a cheaper option.

ZD
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 07:25 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not removing the head is a bit of a non-option here. If you drop even the tiniest piece of that ceramic insulator into the engine it'll tear the piston up.

Head off time I'm afraid.
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Budgetboy
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PostPosted: 08:51 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Head off mate im afraid. Sad

if i had it here i would use heat on the stubborn plug.The heat will expand the metal (alloy v normal metal)
It takes allot of patience to remove these and if you get it wrong you will ruin the threads in the plug port.So don't go wacking it out.i would then weld a bolt on the underside (once the innards was out) then heat it up, ass some lube and slowly apply pressure. 9/10 it will come out.

2nd hand Cylinder head is about £60-£80 just so you know.
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kestrel
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PostPosted: 09:15 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If there's a machine shop local to you that does spark erosion then take the head there. They will be able to remove the plug without damaging the thread.
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 10:32 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

There would be no need for expensive spark erosion, if the head is off you've got access to both ends of the thread and should be easy enough to sort out.
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RIDINGforKICK...
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PostPosted: 12:17 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could hammer the tang of a file into the plug, the use adjustable spanner on the file.

Make sure the piston is at the bottom of the cylinder first.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 12:51 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

RIDINGforKICKS wrote:
You could hammer the tang of a file into the plug, the use adjustable spanner on the file.

Make sure the piston is at the bottom of the cylinder first.


Rediculous advice. Might as well throw rocks at it.
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RIDINGforKICK...
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PostPosted: 13:20 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's work for me!

I even got one out with a star socket once and a chisel on another occasion.

I did have the proper snap on easy out, but sold them last year.

Big mistake.
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swampy
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
RIDINGforKICKS wrote:
You could hammer the tang of a file into the plug, the use adjustable spanner on the file.

Make sure the piston is at the bottom of the cylinder first.


Rediculous advice. Might as well throw rocks at it.


Exactly.... I really wouldn't want to apply that amount of torque to a cast file, the bloody thing could explode Rolling Eyes
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RIDINGforKICK...
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PostPosted: 13:38 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13252

It's an old trick, and well known it the trade.

It really depends on what you have to hand when the situation arises.

Just about any thing tool steel hard and square and about the right size can be hammered in, but you need a way of turning it.
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spitfire123
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PostPosted: 14:21 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

RIDINGforKICKS wrote:
https://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13252

It's an old trick, and well known it the trade.

It really depends on what you have to hand when the situation arises.

Just about any thing tool steel hard and square and about the right size can be hammered in, but you need a way of turning it.


wouldend somthing like this work folks?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILVERLINE-NEW-12-Pc-SCREW-BOLT-EXTRACTOR-THREADING-TOOL-KIT-SET-DRILLS-371762-/320867309206?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4ab52e9696
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RIDINGforKICK...
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PostPosted: 14:31 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=630634&group_ID=675450

This is the set I had, but I had larger ones too.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 14:41 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

RIDINGforKICKS wrote:
https://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13252

It's an old trick, and well known it the trade.

It really depends on what you have to hand when the situation arises.

Just about any thing tool steel hard and square and about the right size can be hammered in, but you need a way of turning it.


Rubbish. The last thing you want to do is deform the threaded part in the hole by hammering a tang into it and the tangs aren't hardened anyway. Additionally, you've linked to thread with a completely irrelevant situation. That guy snapped a plug buy over-torquing it, which means that once the plug is snapped all the load is off the thread and it's free to turn - you could probably have hammered a wooden dowel into it and un-screwed it.

This plug had snapped because it's seized in the thread. You aren't going to get it out by hammering a file tang into it and you aren't going to do it with a screw extractor. If you could, then it would have un-screwed rather than snapped since you could put far more torque into it with the socket wrench.

That head needs to come off.
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Budgetboy
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the screw extractor snaps (which the sometimes do) you are in a world of s***.
Take the head off and do it properly. Thumbs Up
if you were closer you could have dropped your bike off at mine and i would have done all the calipers,carbs and other stuff for you.It would cost you less and be quicker lol.
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RIDINGforKICK...
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PostPosted: 16:14 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The remains of the plug may not be all that tight.

If the plug was over tightened the tightness would be between the washer and the surface of the head, once the washer and shoulder breaks off the thread itself can become loose.

If it were me I would spend some time trying to unscrew the remains of the plug.

If I still couldn't get it out, I'd take the head off.

But on a water-cooled twin overhead cam 4 stroke engine, you can bet your arse I would get it out, eventually.
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Mikey3
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

providing its snapped flush, could you put a nut over it and put some weld inside the nut, so it only welds to the plug, Then get a long reach socket, or a spark plug socket which is the same size as the nut, obviously, to get it out?
Might need someone with some skill though, I doubt its as simple as steel to steel, not sure how this technique would work with a spark plug, but im sure someone will Smile

Mike
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:37 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

You won't get near it, the stuck part is three inches down a narrow hole.
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Budgetboy
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

yep you wont be doing that with the head on the bike. Its about 6-7 inches down a inch and a bit hole.
As we said Head off the bike..No easy way around it..
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spitfire123
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

it litraly buy another engine than fix i as it would probebrly be cheaper.

all gaskets will need replacing. other things will be ceized solid.


timimng it will be a pain. i just cant be botherd with it. id rather just try get it out with an extractor. if that fails. burn it.
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Budgetboy
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PostPosted: 17:56 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its £20 for a head gasket for your bike mate. Another engine is probably £200 odd. And even then you dont know what you are getting.
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spitfire123
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PostPosted: 18:04 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Budgetboy wrote:
Its £20 for a head gasket for your bike mate. Another engine is probably £200 odd. And even then you dont know what you are getting.


and the head bolts and all that?

how hard are they to time up mate?

cheers again
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Budgetboy
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PostPosted: 18:12 - 09 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It wouldnt be,
You would set the timing before you take the head off.That way when you put it all back together it will already be done.
And you would use the same head bolts.

Just buy a new rocker gasket and new head gasket. Torque the head down to spec and you will be fine.
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