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piston stuck in caliper (brakes)

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flumpy7
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PostPosted: 20:33 - 20 Apr 2012    Post subject: piston stuck in caliper (brakes) Reply with quote

Hi all

Prob been asked a million times. Need to do a caliper overhaul on my vt500ef. Pumped out one piston with the fluid i.e pumping with no pads in place. The other is stuck, really f*ck$n stuck.

I haven't got any compressed air before anyone asks, tried using a footpump but just not happening. The caliper is currently disconnected. Any ideas anyone?
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andym
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 20 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

reconnect it with 1 pipe if possible, top up brake fluid and pump away...

If the air didn't work and the fluid doesn't work try taking it to a local tyre fitter and see if they would give it a blast for you... or petrol station tyre pump
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janner_10
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PostPosted: 21:32 - 20 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could try slotting the removed piston back into the caliper and clamping it in its fully retracted position, use a flat bit of wood. Then refill the system with fluid and try and pump the stubborn one out by using the brake lever / pedal.
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HD
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 20 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah get the system back to how it was and keep the piston that works back and pump the other out. You may need to bleed the system a bit to get the pressure to pump it out.
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flumpy7
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PostPosted: 22:37 - 20 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Yeah get the system back to how it was and keep the piston that works back and pump the other out. You may need to bleed the system a bit to get the pressure to pump it out.


Quote:
You could try slotting the removed piston back into the caliper and clamping it in its fully retracted position, use a flat bit of wood. Then refill the system with fluid and try and pump the stubborn one out by using the brake lever / pedal.


Tried this once already, maybe i didnt bleed enough air out first. IF its gonna work how quickly do you think i would see movement...straight away? Or will i need to pump for a while? It wasnt even moving when i tried it earlier!
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HD
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PostPosted: 22:45 - 20 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it is bled properly then you would hope straight away if all of the other pistons are held back. When you are trying to bleed the calliper, it may try to edge out anyway. Make sure to stop it before it falls out cos else you wont get the others out. I like to get all 4 out slightly, then split the calliper and pull them out. If I can't pull them by hand I put a bit of rag on some mole grips and give it a firm tug.
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flumpy7
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 20 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I like to get all 4 out slightly, then split the calliper and pull them out


Only 2 pistons so if i put the one thats already out back in slightly and wedge it with something i should be ok. The caliper doesnt split on this bike unfortunately as that would help

Quote:
If I can't pull them by hand I put a bit of rag on some mole grips and give it a firm tug.


Flippin eck are you he-man? If i cant get it out i'll give you a call Wink
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HD
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PostPosted: 23:05 - 20 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

You 100% it doesn't split as the rear on my Derbi was a tiny 2-pot and that did? And yeah clamping it down with something usually works, like mole grips again, best tool for doing brakes haha! And its not that hard to pull them out sometimes, other times like this you've got no hope Laughing
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janner_10
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PostPosted: 23:17 - 20 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same on my fazer rear brake - one of the pistons wouldn't budge so I split the caliper and manhandled it with a pair of mole grips as a last resort - It didn't mean a new piston though, but I knew this.

Turned out the seals on the rear master cylinder were on their way out so it couldn't build the pressure up to free it. Thankfully found a recon one for £12.

If you cant shift your stuck piston with fluid alone it maybe worth splitting and trying grips and be prepared to replace said piston and seals as they are easy to damage.
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Budgetboy
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 20 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

As others have said connect the brakes up again and use fluid.. But heres a little tip..
Get a pick and pull out the old dust seal if you can before you connect the brakes back up.
if you are rebuilding them you wont mind ruining the seal,just go steady.
there will be less resistance on the piston then. Thumbs Up
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steven_191
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PostPosted: 09:59 - 21 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you do use grips to pull it then be careful and make sure you don't leave any burrs. This may fuck up the new seals.

There are pullers but not sure how effective it would be considering how stuck it is.

Also you could try attaching it to a bigger master cylinder to get more power through the line ie the front master cylinder. Thumbs Up
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andym
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PostPosted: 10:51 - 21 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can try this at your own risk... I don't know if anyone has suggested it, but with the caliper off, if you can get a screwdriver down into the back of the piston, you can try that with some gentle pressure just to get it moving slightly then try the air again.

I had to do this with my intruder brakes, OK it scratched the back of the piston slightly, but it got it to start moving then air took care of the rest... but as I say that is at your own risk. I'm guessing the piston on mine just had so much crap in there because it didn't have a dust seal it had locked the piston.
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flumpy7
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 21 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
You could see how much a new piston is, they vary in price depending on how they're made. If it's cheap, pull yours out with a pair of mole-grips and replace with a new one. I have a front wheel off one of these in the lock up. Is the caliper inside the disc cowl?


I've already got new pistons and seals for it. It was a difficult job to start with as its a replacement caliper bought 2nd hand that had been sitting for several years. I would've bought a brand new one but i dont think they do 'em anymore. Its inboard brakes and yes, the caliper is kind of half in and half out of the cowl - cant do much with it without removing the wheel.

I cant do much with it at the mo as tried to put the removed piston back in and rebleed but the fluid is leaking like crap from around the bleed nipple....too much for some teflon tape to contain. I've ordered an automatic bleed nipple....do these work ok do you know? If you've got a half-decent caliper going spare let me know!
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andym
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PostPosted: 21:07 - 21 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might sound stupid, but if you have the new piston and seals, if there is anything left of the piston sticking out can't you just get a good grip with (and I had to look online for these, still not sure if it's the right name though) waterpump pliers and twist the piston out? it doesn't really matter what state the piston is in if you have a replacement.

Normally I would have said use the handle of a hammer and tap the piston back into place (I've done it with old and new seals in place), but if it's pissin' fluid then it sounds like you've messed something up around the nipple.
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flumpy7
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PostPosted: 22:13 - 21 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

andym wrote:
Might sound stupid, but if you have the new piston and seals, if there is anything left of the piston sticking out can't you just get a good grip with (and I had to look online for these, still not sure if it's the right name though) waterpump pliers and twist the piston out? it doesn't really matter what state the piston is in if you have a replacement.

Normally I would have said use the handle of a hammer and tap the piston back into place (I've done it with old and new seals in place), but if it's pissin' fluid then it sounds like you've messed something up around the nipple.


Yeah might have to be a new tool. Im not bothered about the state of the piston afterwards its just really feckin stuck. Tried mole grips etc...
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 23 Apr 2012    Post subject: stuck piston Reply with quote

Karma hi dude,

reassemble so u can use hydraulic pressure, place caliper in hot water and pump away..........or use heat gun and pump away........some pics and results would be good.
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bagger
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PostPosted: 21:58 - 27 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

ive done this loads just use a big rawlbolt m25 size or so put in the piston tighten down till it grips then use molegrips on the side of the bolt and turn and pull
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 09:58 - 28 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

As others have said, reassemble, bleed and pump the pistons out, blocking them so they both come out together.

If the bleed nipple is not sealing then you have a bigger problem, as that is only an issue if the bleed nipple is tightened up. If it is leaking when tightened up then the caliper needs some work (ie, possibly drill out the bleed nipple and cut a thread for the next size up, but take care that it will still seal) or better being replaced.

Vincent wrote:

I think that's only any use if the pistons have inserts.


Think it relies on having hollow pistons (ie, no inserts, or insert removed - not the really annoying ones fitted to early ZZR600s for example that look like they are filled up with a mix of powdered wood and resin). I presume he means a rawl nut (the rubber mounted nuts which squeeze out as you tighten them, often used in small sizes on fairings and commonly known as well nuts).

All the best

Keith
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Stonefly
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 28 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:

Think it relies on having hollow pistons (ie, no inserts, or insert removed - not the really annoying ones fitted to early ZZR600s for example that look like they are filled up with a mix of powdered wood and resin).


My 2000 E7 ZZR600 has those insert disc things in the pistons. 3 out of the 8 are knackered now from extracting the pistons during a caliper refurb. Can i just put the pistons back without those things? or do i need to get new ones? Kawasaki do not supply them individually - they only come as part of a new piston, which i dont need. I was told to just bin them and put copper grease on the back of the pads - is this correct? has anyone done this with ZZR calipers?
cheers
(apologies to the OP for hijacking the thread)
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 21:22 - 29 Apr 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

You have just made me think. Some ZZR600s have plastic stuffers that can be easily removed while others have the odd ones moulded into the pistons.

As to removing them, not sure. You probably can get away with it. However I suspect the main purpose of them is to insulate the calipers (and the fluid) from much of the heat generated in the pads. Remove them and the fluid will probably get a bit hotter. Also they are slightly proud of the pistons, so without them the pistons will need to come out slightly further for the pads to contact with the disks. Doubt by a critical amount but just something to be aware of.

All the best

Keith
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