Bike being stood - what next advice * DONE and WORKING *

[map]

A mate's ST1100 has been stuck on his drive for some time. Judging by the last tax disc that'd be quite some time, Anyhow it was in gear. A group effort has just managed to get it nto neutral.

Given bike stoop for so long what's the next steps?

Bike not started.

Thanks in advance.


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...and the whirlwind is in the thorn trees, it's hard for thee to kick against the pricks...
Gibbs, what did Duckie look like when he was younger?

[Suntan Sid]

Change all fluids, check all fluid pipes for leaks, might be tempted to dribble a bit of oil down the bores before you turn the engine over.
Clean carbs, petrol tank and filters.
Might want to turn the engine over by pushing it along, slowly, while in gear, before hitting the button.
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"Everybody needs money, that's why they call it money!"

[Walloper]

Drop the oil.
Change the Oil filter.
Fill with fresh oil.
Check the air filter.
Empty and fill the tank with fresh fuel.
Clean out the carbs.
Check coolant.
Probably needs a new battery but the battery fitted may take enough charge to let you phaph about starting.

Try to turn the engine over at low RPM.
If no leaks, bang, crunches or whistles then allow it to warm up.

Depending on how long long is there could be rubber damage too. But you won't know till it appears or if it looks suspect replace with new.
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[temeluchus]

I would replace the sparkplugs and make sure the HT leads arent rotten as well.
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Some shite cruiser. Now with guns and FREEDOM!

[Casper]

I was told if stood for over a year you could also use coka cola or oil. Put about 5ml down each plug hole and let it sit overnight and next day turn motor by hand.

Sounds like your clutch plates could also be stuck. Get new plates or try and free what you have.

[Walloper]

[Casper]

I see what you are saying with this however as I said “I was told” as it happens it’s an old house wife’s trick for engines that the piston rings are stuck to the bores. There is quite a lot of discussion on it with some for and against. One bloke goes on to say tomato sauce does the same job however this is for engines that have sat in a barn for many a year and is in need for restoration. The OP does not say how long his engine stood but I would doubt it’s been 10+ years so a bit of oil would be a good idea.

[stevo as b4]

If it's been sat a year or so, then yeah it would be good practice to drop a tablespoon of oil down each plughole, and while the plugs are out clean them and gap them to spec. Turn over the motor with no plugs in after the oil change and a new filter fitted. It will spin up quicker on the starter and should build oil pressure fairly quickly, so that the valve train has lube from the moment you start it up.

Most engines that have sat for years and have sticky rings, will still start fine, it's just they smoke a bit for a while. My ZX6R was sat for 4years without ever being started and run. As long as you have got plenty of clean oil in the sump, i see no issues with worrying about sticking rings. different matter if the motor won't turn over though.

[map]

Thanks guys for the advice.
More or less as I thought but nice to get a consensus and 2nd opinion.

Nice heads-up about the rubber hoses and connections. Not sure if it has braided brake hoses but this might be a chance to check and change if needed. Will check all the other rubbers. I imagine the air box will be a pain (but aren't they always regardless of bike! )

All oil will be dropped and replaced. Might only be with cheap stuff first as once proved running then it will get another fresh batch.

Dropping fuel will be interesting as the fuel tank lives in the belly of the beast. The big tank thingy on them is for the car sized air filter above the carbs. It keeps the centre of gravity lower, which on something like this has to be a good thing. So in order to take out the fuel tank it looks like a lot of dismantling need to take place.

Have to declare an interest as if this bike works I'll be taking it. So want to get it on the road for as little as possible (I'm tight like that ).

At the moment trying to get all the panels off to make like easier*. It can get through an MOT without panels just have to make sure all the electrics, brakes, indicators, etc. are in place and work. I've fought with VFR panels before but whoever designed the Pan-European was evil. I may start another thread on this as having major problems.

Thanks again and I'll post of progress.

*This is because in order to get at the back spark plugs you need the articulated plug socket that's in the OEM toolbit. Luckily bike still has it. No other tool will do with panels in place .
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...and the whirlwind is in the thorn trees, it's hard for thee to kick against the pricks...
Gibbs, what did Duckie look like when he was younger?

[bikenut]

:karma: hi dude,

all of the above but turn engine over slowly by hand with plugs out first, valves can and do stick ( open usually ).

if engine turns over ok by hand ( you can see the valves thru the plug holes usually ) whiz on starter.

after sure oil got to all engine bits, so everything nicely lubed, then try to start.

leave running on centre stand to check for leaks etc.

the clutch will probably be stuck, so leave on stand and allow to warm up properly. when hot, use clutch lever and listen to g/box noise..........does g/box noise stop meaning clutch free????

after warm up on stand, stop engine, select second gear and start engine, allow to run and hold in clutch.......use throttle to make transmission snatch, to snatch clutch free when engine hot.

do not just open the throttle, smash it into gear and fuck the box.......

alternatively, strip and clean the clutch, whilst there flush out the crank case.......clutch debris and sediment etc.......

[Walloper]

Tip.
If there was no issue before the bike was stood.
I would bet a pound the beast will be fine.
There may be some corrosion in the cylinder bores but it may not be too bad.

Really, an engine should be set up properly if storage is more than a year. This involves removal of plugs and pouring a measured amount of VOC down the bores. and turning the engine by hand.
The engine oil should be removed and the sump filled with a mix of engine oil and VOC.
All breathers, vents, inlet and exhaust ports must be sealed.
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[Marmalade]

If it refuses to turn over and won't turn the engine by pushing it in gear then the alternator will be corroded, probably cracked and you'll need £300+ deep pockets to get another one.

This is if you want to remove the rear wheel, tank, bevel unit, rear subframe and a few other bits and pieces to be able to access it.
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[map]

[Lone-Wolf]

Wotcha.

I've just made a start on a bike that's been standing . . . . for the last forty years. The fellow bought it new, rode it to work for four years, then emmigrated to Australia leaving the bike behind in an outbuilding at the local pub. That was the last time it was taxed and tested.

https://www.moonshiners.org.uk/D144S/144stax.jpg
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Cheers.
^..^
L.W. - www.moonshiners.org.uk

[Walloper]

[Lone-Wolf]

[Walloper]