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So I can't get the forks apart

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J.M.
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PostPosted: 20:12 - 24 May 2012    Post subject: So I can't get the forks apart Reply with quote

Beginning to hate this bike just a little bit.

I've been trying to take the forks apart for ages now... but I just get frustrated and think "fork it" and chucking them back with what I have left of a bike.

I started off by draining out as much oil as I could from them through the cap at the top of the stanchion. Then I removed the wheel bearing from the bottom to get access to the bolt.
Got a 7mm Alan Key and started to undo them. They were seriously difficult to get to turn initially, but I finally found enough leverage to budge them.

Then undid until they were at the stage where I could twist the Alan Key using just my fingers, but that's all they do. Just twist.
On one of the forks, twisting the bolt also twists the stanchion in the same direction. If you hold the stanchion still, the bolt still just twists and doesn't come out.
The second fork, the bolt just twists, the stanchion doesn't twist with it. Bolt still doesn't come out though.

Finally got fed up with it yesterday and found a 7mm alan-key-thingy (yes, that's the technical name) which fitted in to a drill and just used that. Gently at first to see if they would budge even 1mm. They didn't. Finally I got fed up and just held the trigger on the drill down to turn it as fast as I could and they still didn't budge.

Fed up with this now.

Any ideas? Trying to look at 2nd hand complete forks now and contemplating asking some dealers/mechanics if they can source any because I can't find any for my bike on the internet. Only Stanchions, and only from Wemoto.

Cheers.
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WannaBeDude
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PostPosted: 20:12 - 24 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Frigid bitch !!
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kestrel
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 24 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The allen bolts you are talking about in the bottom of the fork sliders are threaded into the damping rods. As you are turning the bolts the damping rods are also turning inside the stanchions which is why they won't come out. Sometimes fork spring pressure is sufficient to prevent the damping rods from turning but you may need a special tool to do this. You may find that the top of the damping rods have a hex head, in which case you only need a long extension bar and the correct size socket.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 24 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right, okay.

I'll try putting the metal tube which sits on top of the spring back in so that there's pressure on the springs again and see if that gives me any success.

Mechanics is so frustrating when you don't have a clue what you're doing. Mr. Green
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Nick 50
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PostPosted: 21:13 - 24 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

This story sounds so familiar Shocked

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=246196

If you can't get them sorted, send them to Budgetboy to do.

Your forks sound exactly like mine were. I gave up and sent them to Budgetboy and i'm so glad I did to be honest. It was my first time trying to do the seals and bushes on the bike. No matter what I tried I just couldn't get the allen bolts out.

In the end Budgetboy had to drill them out and re-tappet the forks and cartridges and stick new bolts in. He didn't even ask for extra money for the work.

Definitely a very happy customer Thumbs Up

*Edit* The special tool for the cartridge aint cheap. I priced one up for the CBR and it was £65 Shocked and in the end it wouldn't of worked anyway.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 21:31 - 24 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Nick, bookmarked that!

Those look really nice, job well done by him!

I'm hoping that I'll be able to manage it myself because my budget needs to be as close to £0 as I can get it Mr. Green Also need to check that all the insides are fine before I order new Stanchions.
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Nick 50
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PostPosted: 21:37 - 24 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

J.M. wrote:
Cheers Nick, bookmarked that!

Those look really nice, job well done by him!

I'm hoping that I'll be able to manage it myself because my budget needs to be as close to £0 as I can get it Mr. Green Also need to check that all the insides are fine before I order new Stanchions.


How bad are the Stanchions?

Even if you just pm'ed with what you are trying to achieve at the end he might be able to offer some type of solution which even might mean not needing new stanchions.

Hope you get sorted, and definitely know the frustration you feel...... plus I tried the drill thing too Laughing didn't work for me either.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 24 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Almost L-shaped Laughing
https://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/156254_411234182244884_100000749172237_1297253_794309332_n.jpg
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Nick 50
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PostPosted: 21:44 - 24 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

J.M. wrote:
Almost L-shaped Laughing


That'll polish out no problem Wink
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andys675
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 24 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

have managed to use a broom handle instead of a "special tool" to hold the damper rod in the past,, wedged against the floor with an airgun on the allen bolt Wink

edit: now I've seen the photo, you'll need to get them a bit more straight to get a tool inside............
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Nick 50
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PostPosted: 21:54 - 24 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Out of interest, have you checked if other year GS500 models have the same stanchion, push rods?

Had a look on CMSNL:

https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs500-f-2004-2006-usa_model16027/tubeinner_5111001d60/

Clicked on stanchion (No.10) and it states the OEm part No. : 51110-01D60

If you google that, it seems they are the same for the GS500 1997 models onwards.

There are 97 forks on ebay pretty cheap.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 01:34 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

As andys350 said you can't normally beat a broom handle - just drive it in with a lump hammer and get a mate to hang onto it with a pair of stilson's.
Failing that I'd just drill out the allen screw on the bottom. All you've got to do is lose the head of the screw and the whole lot'll fall out leaving a nice stud to remove.
BUT in this case the fork has no forseeable future so just grab a grinder with an INOX cutting disc and take slices off the fork until you come to the guts, should be able to suss what you'll need to hold the spinning end then. Just try to avoid cutting into anything other the stanchion itself.
Good luck
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 08:41 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

As above, the dampener rod is spinning around inside the fork.

Me and bro had the same issue on a CB250, tried the broom handle thing etc etc but nothing worked. In the end, took it to a garage and used the air impact driver on it. It needs the sharp shock to get it to break free and not just twist around.
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Budgetboy
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PostPosted: 10:05 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

J.M. wrote:


Thats is naffed mate. Sad
Along with the stanchion i can tell you the spring will now be junk as will the cartridge rod (if you decide to split the cartridge bit).The spring will now have a weak point on one side,so for safety i would bin it.
The only things you might be able to salvage IMO are:-
Fork cap
Fork bottom

The rest is junk im sorry to say.
The stanchions will cost you a good part of £60-£90 (est) per leg. Then you have the oil,seals possible cartridge parts.
you would be far better off buying a used fork leg and rebuilding that.

Just thought i would point that out to you mate.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 10:56 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damn. I was hoping that the insides would be salvageable so that all I needed were the stanchions. Sad

I can't seem to find any forks online which don't have pitting or marks all-over the stanchions. Also the fork bottom from an older fork wouldn't fit my bike would it?

The only one on eBay at the moment are these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GS-500-E-GS500E-Forks-/310401163249?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item484559dff1

Would they fit the 2004 GS500F model?

Additionally those stanchions look almost gone with pitting so those would need replacing; cheapest I can find is 110 quid each. Pushing the total cost to 270 just for forks. Then I probably can't put them together myself so I'll have to be looking at someone to do that for me, with the additional worry of something going wrong on the inside and having an extra sum to pay.

Does anybody know a rough price for complete new forks, or where to find them even?
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Casper
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PostPosted: 11:59 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phone these guys

https://www.breakingpoint.co.uk/UsedSpares.html
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 12:16 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers, bookmarked that.

Going to see Dad in a few hours, so I'll talk to him about a few ideas I've got running around my head.

Just had a thought actually. Seen a couple of older, cheap, GS500s on eBay. Could buy one of those, take the parts that I need from it and then break it up in to spares to make some of my money back. Or keep the bits as spares.
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Casper
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PostPosted: 12:20 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

J.M. wrote:
Cheers, bookmarked that.

Going to see Dad in a few hours, so I'll talk to him about a few ideas I've got running around my head.

Just had a thought actually. Seen a couple of older, cheap, GS500s on eBay. Could buy one of those, take the parts that I need from it and then break it up in to spares to make some of my money back. Or keep the bits as spares.


Your local gumtree also. I have seen these pass hands for as low as 200 quid. Just make sure all forks are the same diamater at the stanchion. You wont squeez a 38mm in a 37 hole but if you have the whole bike you could also chainge the yokes over.
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Casper
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PostPosted: 12:25 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shame you are so far away

https://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/suzuki-gs500-breaking-non-runner-complete-bike/102599652
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Budgetboy
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PostPosted: 12:39 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to search and see if there are any other model that will fit your bike.

make sure these are the same:-
caliper mounting holes (centre 2 centre)
Stanchion size (Diameter)
Axel diameter

if these are the same as yours then they will fix.A lot of makers of bikes use the same parts on different bikes.So IMO it is worth checking.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 13:18 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Budgetboy wrote:

Thats is naffed mate. Sad
Along with the stanchion i can tell you the spring will now be junk as will the cartridge rod (if you decide to split the cartridge bit).The spring will now have a weak point on one side,so for safety i would bin it.
The only things you might be able to salvage IMO are:-
Fork cap
Fork bottom

The rest is junk im sorry to say.
The stanchions will cost you a good part of £60-£90 (est) per leg. Then you have the oil,seals possible cartridge parts.
you would be far better off buying a used fork leg and rebuilding that.



You are speaking bollocks.

There is no cartridge in those they are a basic fork leg.

As to the spring having a weak point springs are meant to deform, even sideways.

Just take it to a bike shop as a complete unit who will compress the fork leg and windy gun it.

Budgetboy wrote:
Just thought i would point that out to you mate.


HTH Thumbs Up
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Budgetboy
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PostPosted: 15:00 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Budgetboy wrote:

Thats is naffed mate. Sad
Along with the stanchion i can tell you the spring will now be junk as will the cartridge rod (if you decide to split the cartridge bit).The spring will now have a weak point on one side,so for safety i would bin it.
The only things you might be able to salvage IMO are:-
Fork cap
Fork bottom

The rest is junk im sorry to say.
The stanchions will cost you a good part of £60-£90 (est) per leg. Then you have the oil,seals possible cartridge parts.
you would be far better off buying a used fork leg and rebuilding that.



You are speaking bollocks.

There is no cartridge in those they are a basic fork leg.

As to the spring having a weak point springs are meant to deform, even sideways.

Just take it to a bike shop as a complete unit who will compress the fork leg and windy gun it.

Budgetboy wrote:
Just thought i would point that out to you mate.


HTH Thumbs Up


Charming.. Rolling Eyes

Sorry I was thinking or someone else's forks (CBR600)
If the spring has been sat in the same position for a long time it will have a natural bend init,this bend will RUB on the inside of the fork.
But clearly i am wrong and have never seen this, so please excuse me for being so stupid.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Budgetboy wrote:


Charming.. Rolling Eyes

Sorry I was thinking or someone else's forks (CBR600)
If the spring has been sat in the same position for a long time it will have a natural bend init, this bend will RUB on the inside of the fork.
But clearly i am wrong and have never seen this, so please excuse me for being so stupid.


So it's no longer a weak spot it's a spot that rubs.

So when the fork leg is compressed slightly oh lets say by the weight of the bike and the weight of the rider and the spring compresses are you really suggesting that it doesn't try to deform sideways at all and doesn't rub on the fork inner?

Come on man if you're going to sell a service at least pretend you know what you're talking about.

HTH Thumbs Up
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Budgetboy
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:

So when the fork leg is compressed slightly oh lets say by the weight of the bike and the weight of the rider and the spring compresses are you really suggesting that it doesn't try to deform sideways at all and doesn't rub on the fork inner?

Come on man if you're going to sell a service at least pretend you know what you're talking about.

HTH Thumbs Up


But the spring is CONSTANTLY moving normally. THIS ONE HAS BEEN SAT IN THE SAME POSITION.Take it out and rest it on a flat surface and roll it.I bet it will not be flat. Thumbs Up
No sorry i am wrong again,, it will be fine.. Ignore me.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 16:17 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Budgetboy wrote:
But the spring is CONSTANTLY moving normally. THIS ONE HAS BEEN SAT IN THE SAME POSITION.Take it out and rest it on a flat surface and roll it.I bet it will not be flat. Thumbs Up
No sorry i am wrong again,, it will be fine.. Ignore me.


Most springs aren't perfectly straight/flat as it's not really a design consideration and not required what with them being lubricated in their movement by the fork oil/fluid.
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