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Cracked oil sump

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Nick 50
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Cracked oil sump Reply with quote

In my battle at destroying the bike ever so slowly, I have went and cracked the sump by tightening the drain bolt too much.

It has cracked up the small cylinder where the bolt goes in. The crack is about 1/2 inch long, but long enough where oil is now dripping out.

Sooooo, can I use a glue (like Araldite) to fix it? Or do I need a new sump?

If a new sump, does anyone ideas if other models of CBR600F sumps will fit?
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flumpy7
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Re: Cracked oil sump Reply with quote

Nick 50 wrote:
In my battle at destroying the bike ever so slowly, I have went and cracked the sump by tightening the drain bolt too much.

It has cracked up the small cylinder where the bolt goes in. The crack is about 1/2 inch long, but long enough where oil is now dripping out.

Sooooo, can I use a glue (like Araldite) to fix it? Or do I need a new sump?

If a new sump, does anyone ideas if other models of CBR600F sumps will fit?


The araldite that is steel strength will prob hold it (obviously no pics so cant guarantee) but really i would want to replace the sump as thats a major bodge lol
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MG
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PostPosted: 21:22 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Friend of mine did this and tried a repair with quiksteel. It didn't hold so he replaced the sump. You can get it welded as a permanent fix too.

It's one of those things you don't want to risk because if there's no oil, you've got no bike Thumbs Down
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 21:46 - 25 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you get it dry with no oil in it. Pour some petrol in and rinse it out.
Use brake cleaner or petrol to clean around the cracked area. Clean the plug the same way.
Fit the plug but do not batter it up dead tight.
Slabber the araldite Metal around the plug and the area of the crack.
Let it set and put another layer on. If you have some fibreglass matting for bodywork that would help too.
This is not a permanent fix and you should be looking for a new sump.
Welding is difficult as you will always have the damage where the plug thread is that may weep.

Fill the sump with the correct oil.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 26 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you ground a prep in the sump, welded it, then files the plug sealing face flat it wouldn't matter that the crack was across the threads because it doesn't seal there anyway. Only problem is you risk wrecking the thread with the welding.
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Casper
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PostPosted: 13:45 - 26 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ask MrDunkable. He fucked his and im sure he got one from another model.
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Drake
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 26 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

just get it welded with the bolt in, then take bolt out, run a tap down it then clean it up
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Nick 50
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PostPosted: 23:05 - 29 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well the Araldite failed miserably.

Out of interest does anyone have an idea how much it would cost to get it TIG welded? The crack is about 1 inch long.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 23:15 - 29 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nick 50 wrote:
Well the Araldite failed miserably.

Out of interest does anyone have an idea how much it would cost to get it TIG welded? The crack is about 1 inch long.


Probably 1hr labour
£30-ish.

You may be asked to remove the sump though as its not easy to get weld to stick to oily surfaces.

I guess you never got the area clean enough to stick the araldite then?

You could try petro-patch

Specification Information
Upper temperature limits: Continuous: 121°C, intermittent: 149°C
Shrinkage: < 1%

"Product Usage
Granville Petro Patch Putty can be used to repair leaks, cracks
etc. in petrol and diesel tanks, water tanks etc. Petro Patch
Putty can also be used to repair pipes, tools, equipment and to
repair cracked castings etc."
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Nick 50
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PostPosted: 23:51 - 29 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I might give petro patch a try.

I gave it as good as a clean as I could using paraffin, white spirit and then water and thoroughly dried it.

I think the issue is the crack is so small at the top it was hard to get the Araldite into it. I put some on the outside of the drain but it wasn't sticking to it very well.

On the other hand it might be the washer needs replacing, which I have ordered a new one.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 09:43 - 30 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Karma hi dude,

did you read the thread about torque wrenches............ Sad
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:19 - 30 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nick 50 wrote:
I think the issue is the crack is so small at the top it was hard to get the Araldite into it

Got pics?

Depending on exactly where it is, I'd grind the crack out slightly into a V shape (with a Dremel not an angle grinder!) and rough it up as much as possible before filling it.

You'll also need to give the filler time to completely cure, oil is a bugger for seeping through.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 10:27 - 30 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just buy a new sump there is one for £20 on ebay.
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fatjames
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 30 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just an idea. After using Araldite / petro patch, why not replace the original washer with one wide enough to cover the crack, and sandwich the glue in?

FJ
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fatjames
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 30 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

or..

chris-red wrote:
Just buy a new sump there is one for £20 on ebay.


Sounds like a better idea!
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Nick 50
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PostPosted: 11:22 - 30 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem with buying another sump is finding the right one. Have looked on e-bay but none are the right ones. Only the FV/FW models have the same sump.

I can source a new one but they are £145 Shocked .
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 22:39 - 31 May 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nick 50 wrote:
The problem with buying another sump is finding the right one. Have looked on e-bay but none are the right ones. Only the FV/FW models have the same sump.

I can source a new one but they are £145 Shocked .

Don't all the F3 CBRs (so 95 ~ 98) have the same engine? I think alot of hornets use that motor too.

Might be worth enquiring what this is really from. I am 100% sure that is NOT from an F-X.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-CBR-600-FX-ENGINE-OIL-SUMP-1999-/310400905549?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item484555f14d
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woodie
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PostPosted: 06:35 - 01 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

i did this on a customers BMW as they has alloy sumps ..

i used QUICKSTEEL..

i emptyed the sump and cleaned it out..

then done up the bolt so the crack was open slightly i squashed the steel in then un done plug quick before the steel set i then wire brushed around the crack and put a load more around left for 30 mins to set ....and was fine....

i used quick steel to reaplace a chunk missing out of a head on a 306 and is still running now Very Happy Very Happy
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MG
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PostPosted: 09:51 - 01 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

woodie wrote:
Hi

i did this on a customers BMW as they has alloy sumps ..

i used QUICKSTEEL..

i emptyed the sump and cleaned it out..

then done up the bolt so the crack was open slightly i squashed the steel in then un done plug quick before the steel set i then wire brushed around the crack and put a load more around left for 30 mins to set ....and was fine....

i used quick steel to reaplace a chunk missing out of a head on a 306 and is still running now Very Happy Very Happy


You did it for a customer?

If I was running a garage I wouldn't even consider doing a bodge like that!
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Nick 50
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PostPosted: 11:15 - 01 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just picked up some Quicksteel and i'm currently trying that.

The Araldite must have had some effect. Fitted new washer and drain bolt and it only dripped out 50ml over night, so is a lot better.

Gave it all a good clean and used some emery cloth to scruff up the area.

The quicksteel putty felt much better straight from them off, so fingers crossed.......
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woodie
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 01 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

mikeyg .....It ws a temp fix till we sourced another sump from a scrappy im a prof and we run a very well known garage and we do anything for our customers to keep them mobile ....

and if i was in any doubt that it would leak id of not let the car leave the garage....

nick good luck mate... let us know how you get on
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 01 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

woodie wrote:
mikeyg .....It ws a temp fix till we sourced another sump from a scrappy im a prof and we run a very well known garage and we do anything for our customers to keep them mobile ....

and if i was in any doubt that it would leak id of not let the car leave the garage....

nick good luck mate... let us know how you get on


Perfectly sound repair if done properly, where the area is keyed, cleaned with solvent and cement well mixed and applied.

Thumbs Up

I have glued Diesel injector lines to keep a customer digging using plastic steel and rags until I could get a new line. Worked a treat. New line fitted next morning. Customer kept bodged line for spare.
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Nick 50
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 02 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well applying quicksteel didn't fix it, just slowed the trickle right down Sad

So lay on the garage floor (I need a lift I reckon) thinking, i'm gonna have to take it off. The only other bike I had semi took apart was my GZ, so this was a whole new level.

Took all the bolts out of the sump, bit fiddly but they all come out a breeze. I was hoping I could slide the sump out with out taking the exhaust off. Errrrr no........

Look at the exhaust bolts (oh oh) 4 are long hex nuts and weren't rusty at all. Again fiddly, but come off quite easily. The 2 in the middle were normal bolts and looked pretty rusty. Have read quite a few threads on BCF about studs snapping etc etc so was a bit wary.
Sprayed plenty of penetrating fluid, went home had a coffee and went back round (bikes in garage about 100 yards away). These were extremely bloody fiddly to get to without taking the radiator off, but waheyyyy got them off. One stuck to the stud and the stud came out but nothing snapped.

So bloody happy I ditched the halfrauds socket set and got a decent one.

Anyway, the sump. The crack has travelled quite far up the inside (will add pic soon). It looks like i'll need to quicksteel the inside to get the bike back on the road.

I have contacted some breakers about keeping an eye out for a replacement, waiting game now.

Now to get the sump in the bath for a good clean and destory more of the mrs new towels (I killed the old ones Embarassed ).
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First bike: A GZ125 Lemon.......
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Nick 50
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PostPosted: 17:33 - 02 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the offending crack, turns out to be 2 cracks, no wonder it continued to leak.

https://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn6/ElScampio/GEDC0527.jpg
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