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Just came of bike , need advice on replacment parts

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RossShort
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 02 Apr 2012
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 08 Jun 2012    Post subject: Just came of bike , need advice on replacment parts Reply with quote

Hi there ,

I just came of my bike due to a diesel spill on the road that i did not see until it was to late. I was going well below 30MPH at the time of the accident so no major damage was done ( i hope ).

The problem is I bought a shitty AJS NAC 12 which i thought would be okay as the company had good british origins and a uk call centre. I cant find replacment parts for my model of bike - the nac12 is the streetfighter styled model.

I was wondering if you's could give me a few hints and tips as well as some well sought after guidance.

The damage to the bike is as follows,

[/img]Pic 1 -

Clock Casing smashed and warped ( all instruments are ok ) and the left handle bar is damaged.

Pic 2 -

Closer up view of the left handle bar.

Pic 3 -

Gear lever damage.

Pic 4 -

Closer up view of the gear lever ( hoping someone can tell my the type of connection it uses to try and find a replacement)


The few questions i have ,

1. The clock casing - If i order new clocks and casings ( not original for bike , more a customized streetfighter styled pair ) how difficult are they too fit ? and would it include alot of re-wirring work ?

2. The split handle bars , is there away you can change these to a single bar ? possible clamps or something that go in the locating holes for the split type , forgive me if this is an obvious answer but i am new to the motorcycle market.

3. The gear lever - is this a specific way of connecting the gear rod to the lever ? as with the other levers i have seen there seem to be none with the ball joint at the bottom and the rod facing towards the front of the bike exept the GXR 600 lever i think ? - anyone have any ideas on what kind of lever to buy or if it would be best just to produce a homemade job ( Weld or Clip on a simple gear lever to the plate of the old one just saw off and file the broken lever part )

Thnaks for any knowlege you can give me , and i hope i can get back to learning the ways of a motorcyclist soon ! ( just better pay closer attention to the road from now on).
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Casper
World Chat Champion



Joined: 12 Jul 2010
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PostPosted: 15:19 - 08 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those two fixing holes you have holding the bars on. You may get risers to fit in those holes allowing you to put one bar on. If you find it to close then you could drill new holes in the top yoke for risers. Watch as if they are to high you might need longer cables and brake lines. The gear shift should hammer back straight with some heat.
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RossShort
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 02 Apr 2012
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PostPosted: 15:27 - 08 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your information man.

I thought amout trying to straighten the gear lever out but i did not want to make the metal weak ( i all ready used a pry bar to get the gear lever to the position it is in now ao that i could get the bike into second to drive it home ) - i dont have a proper way of getting heat onto the lever from home. In fact i might have something i could use suppose i could give it a try , if it brakes then i was going to buy a new one anyway.

Again , obvious newbie question ,

are most handle bars or handle bar clamps a universal fit just with different heights and so on or are they all specific measurements ( thread diameter & pitch )
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Casper
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Joined: 12 Jul 2010
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PostPosted: 15:32 - 08 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few different sizes and hights. You can pay more money and get a set where you can adjust the hight but something about an inch and a half should do. You can buy flat bars just now so it does not rise to much and get longer cables later if you want more traditional bars. Get on eBay and buy 2nd hand. Go for the option of using those fixing holes that are there first as if you dont like it and go back to standard you are not left with two holes in your yoke.
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 17:09 - 08 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The top-yoke is likely to be rather un-helpful. On Snowie's AJS when I had a shuftie it was a VERY cheap and spindly zinc-alloy casting, that was almost paper-thin with loads of cross-webbing, like a moulded plastic milk-crate.

I would NOT want to drill one to take bar-clamps, as there is just NOT the metal there to support it, and the metal itself is NOT particularly strong... stuff they make match-box toy cars from!

That gear-lever; could be taken off and straightened by some-one with a gas-torch and a vice.

Clocks, personally I would either get something off an old Honda and cobble to fit; looks like a lot of Honda 'equipment' is used on teh AJS's... certainly was on Snowie's.

CG125 or CB125 'dash' would probably bolt straight on & plug into the loom, & the speedo calibration even be the same. If not AJS dials would probably go into the Honda Box.....

I conventeiently have a few Honda dash's knocking around, so I would be looking to see what I could do with soldering iron, plastic welding, glue and mix of bits.
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Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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Casper
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Joined: 12 Jul 2010
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PostPosted: 19:15 - 08 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the yokes that shit on them? You could get the type that clip on the top of the forks but you will need to drop the front end an inch to fit them.
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 19:45 - 08 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

1888 wrote:
Are the yokes that shit on them? You could get the type that clip on the top of the forks but you will need to drop the front end an inch to fit them.

Top yoke on most bikes, isn't hugely sturdy, TBH.

FJ1200? - Pretty '#Beefy' bit of iron-age engineering. Was looking at yoke on one of them with Jimbo, thicker webbing, and better metal, but same problem; there's not enough 'meat' in it to drill into and make a secure mount.
Look at yokes with propper bar-clamps, either intehrally cast, or they are drilled into a 3/4" 'slab' thats relieved only where the boss holes aren't.

Yeah, seen it done, seen it done well, but more often badly; its not a practice I would suggest to a 'newb' who probably only has a vague idea about it, and 'it makes sense' and goes off, and drills holes, taps them, then maybe even grinds away webbing to get a bolt on the back when the bar-clamps start wobbling.... or worse... starts trying to gob it up with 'metal-set'!

If you want conventional bars, there are yoke-kits, that will bolt on on place of the clip-on...

Alternatively.... my motto.... if it ent broke, dont fix it!

Especially when there's other stuff that IS broke and needs fixing!
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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Casper
World Chat Champion



Joined: 12 Jul 2010
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PostPosted: 20:15 - 08 Jun 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are the 2nd person to say this about drilling. I have been asking around as well as i am going to do it soon. Many have done it but i was just asking about my bike. Could be that Kawasaki made a better yoke on the old GPz as i have not heard any horror storys. Sorry to the OP if i miss lead you but yes, if thin shitty matal is used then dont bother.
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