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| nightshaddow |
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nightshaddow
Nearly there...
Joined: 18 Feb 2008
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 Posted: 16:42 - 01 Dec 2011  Post subject: Cb 125 TDE superdream |
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To start off the bike itself is a 1987 125 superdream it has a few issues but mostly in good nick,
i aquired it as i was sick of the POR chinese bikes problems, this being the third CB twin i have had i am comfortable and comfident i can iron out the little chinks of a 25 odd year old bike and though i doubt it will be the standard off SnowTigeress and Teflon-Mike's pup and corpral respectivly i hope to get it up there over time and other than 1 or 2 minor alterations i plan to keep it compleatly standard,
| Teflon-Mike wrote: |
I've seen tidier.. but I also paid as much for 'The Heap', which has proved little more than dead-weight value! 
Shiney pipes. You put them on?
Have you done the usual suspects? Oil Strainer, tensioned the cam-chain, set the tappets; synced the choke linkage, cleaned the carbs, and balenced the idle & slides?
If it goes wooly around 6-7K, on load, you ought to be well on the main jet, and usual suspect is the carb inlet rubbers are dragging air...
Actually an carb issue is to suspect carb rubbers! Everyone tears them trying to pull the carbs out without removing the air-box. |
i think this is a compliment lol so a quick breakdown of what i have done and what i am going to do (hopefully)
I fixed the major issues which where the indicators that where broken so fit a set of L.E.D. ones i had i just need to make up an idiot light for it. the way the loom is set up if i have the bulb in for the idiot light all four indicators flash regardless of direction as it has one single idiot light for both directions.
She was also running on one cylinder (the reason i got her so cheap) a new set of ht leads ht caps and plugs paid par to that.
main things i have to address are the gearbox issue in fourth and the seat cover has a nasty rip and is covered in gaffa tape,
main thing i want to change is the gear ratios via the chain and sprockets, i travel on a duel carridgeway to work and she sits at 65 @10500 rpm
other than that the only real non standard thing i want to change is the handle bars they are too narrow for me i am used to and prefer wider bars
and then a general cosmetic tidy up to get it in a nice condition
sugestions and comments always accepted and critisizem also expected  more pics will come tomorrow (in the day light)
next to happen will be a full service to check everything, mainly the oil because of the gearbox issue and as soon as my new balencers arrive the carbs will be synced up too
____________________
"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews ) |
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| nightshaddow |
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nightshaddow
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| nightshaddow |
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nightshaddow
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| UnspeedySam |
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UnspeedySam
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nightshaddow
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Posted: 17:24 - 16 Dec 2011  Post subject: |
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one of the problems with this bike when i got it was the indicators where snapped, this was not an issue so i fitted a set of led idicators as well as a new relay for the led's.
once i fitted them the indicators no matter which direction i operated activated all 4 indicators, knowing why this happened i pulled the "idiot" light and the system worked corectly,
following the advise and information by teflon mike
| Teflon-Mike wrote: | | nightshaddow wrote: | I fixed the major issues which where the indicators that where broken so fit a set of L.E.D. ones i had i just need to make up an idiot light for it. |
Yes... Super-dream has rather clever indicator tell-tale wiring arramgement, that doesn't work with LED bulbs as we found on the Pup. (see Pup-Project Thread)
You need two diodes.
Diodes are one way valves for electricity. LED's are 'Light Emmitting Diodes'. So electric will only flow through them one way.
Two wires put on to batt poss one to ground, they will light up. Swap wires they wont.
Do that with conventional tungsten bulb, it will light up whichever way electric flows.
Super-dream utilises this feature of the tungsten bulb for the tell-tale.
Indicator volts come from the battery, via the ignition switch; back to the flasher unit, then back to the indicator switch.
Here the indy switch point the volts either to no where, in centre possition (off) or to the left indies or right indies.
Volts go through bulb, and return to the battery via the chassis earth.
(Tip; make up an earth strap from the indy to the chassis, at the rear, there is a rubber isolation block in the bracket, and a seperate link wire around it that often snaps, gets lost of corrodes up, giving poor earths; Fronts bring to common earth in the headlamp for same reason)
So, Tell-Tale.
Tungsten bulb between the clocks, and two wires.
One wire is linked in the head-lamp to the +ve feed to the Right indicator (I think orange wire)
One wire is linked in headlamp to the +ve feed to the Left indicator (I think pale blue wire)
When volts on Left indies, volts can flow through the tell-tale lighting it up, and earthing through the Right hand indicator bulbs.
Voltage reduction accross the resistance of the tell-tale means that there isn't enough volts to actually make the two right hand indies light up, SO you get left indies and tell-tale.
Wen volts on Right hand indies, volts flow the OTHER way through the tell tale, earthing through the left hand bulbs...
Clever, isn't it?
BUT, if you have fitted LED indicators...
Volts on the Right hand circvuit are directed through the tell-tale and put on left hand circuit, and can be enough to light up low amp LED's...
So you can end up with all four blinkers working on either direction switch. Or none at all, depending on the LED wiring and or balast resistances.
Solution is, two diodes.
You make a Y-Piece of wire with a Diode in each arm, and a male bullet on each end, to plug into the indy circuits in the headlamp, wherethe tell-tale would.
You then put female bullet on the common branch and plug in one or other of the Tell-Tale leads to it, and then a short link wire, with a ring connector one end and a female bullet the other, to connect to the other tell-tale lead, and attach to the headlamp mountng bolt's 'common earth' point.
Now volts from indies on left go through diode, to tell-tale and direct to earth. Volts from indies on right go through other diode, through tell-tale, and direct to earth, but volts from left cant back-flow through the other diode to the right indies, nor vica versa.
How have you got the flash-rate sorted BTW? Have you used balast resistors or an electronic flasher?
I preffer the electronic flasher; chyrstal times the flash delay no matter what the load on the circuit, tungsten or LED, and if using LED's you dont have the current draw of big ballast resistors.
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i built this
https://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/381313_10150480459448846_741698845_8814245_990003984_n.jpg
all tested on a 9v square battery the light seems to be working corectly with the 2 diodes in place i just need to fit into the corect place, this will however need to wait till tomorrow or sunday as it is now dark outside 
basicaly befor and after how this thing is on the bike and the new one
https://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/378610_10150480493288846_741698845_8814326_592223401_n.jpg
____________________
"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews ) |
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| nightshaddow |
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nightshaddow
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| Posted: 13:03 - 18 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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well today i finally got to fitting the idiot light i made, as you can see with the bulb in the original loom all four indicators flash withought the idiot light lighting up which of course is no good.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2p93T1knykc&feature=youtu.be
so of course into the wireing at the frount and wired in the new idiot light, for the keen eyes among you you can see i have left the whole system so it can be easily removed at any time also
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSmQNGfIEl8&feature=youtu.be
so with everything figured out eg where my earths will be and also where to route the new wireing i rebuilt the frount end and here she is
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hE6AV6adeOE&feature=youtu.be
so now all the electrical problems are sorted i will make a list of what to do with this bike and tackle everything in order,
gotta say big thanks to teflon mike for this one as i knew why it was happening but not sure how to fix 
____________________
"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews ) |
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nightshaddow
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| Posted: 18:03 - 07 Jan 2012 Post subject: |
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so i have now made a list of what i would like to do to the bike to bring it up to scratch and it will probably take a while to do but this is the list
FROUNT END
polish frount wheel
polish frount forks
new headlight
new handle bars
paint frount mudguard
paint triple trees
service brakes
paint/upgrade/replace caliper
paint headlight mounting
paint switchgear
replace / paint mirrors
tidy up clocks
MID SECTION
pull out dent in fuel tank
repaint engine casings
repaint fuel tank
repaint side pannels
full engine rebuild
new gearbox
check and replace bairings
pistons/ rings
valves and seals
etc
rear section
polish up rear wheel
powdercoat swing arm
tidy/paint chain guard
recover seat
paint rear plastic
polish rear trim
replace rear lights
seeing as the bike is in reasonable nick already i will work through frount to back etc this should be made easyer as i have a compleate bike in spares though there are cirtain bits that are beyond repair on both machines
____________________
"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews ) |
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nightshaddow
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nightshaddow
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| Posted: 10:50 - 24 Jan 2012 Post subject: |
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well slow progress atm but i am still trying to source parts for the gearbox, and being on a tight budget it not easy going
saying that mr posty and royal fail delivered this this morning
https://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/396973_10150566017158846_741698845_9133701_150019787_n.jpg
i have already decided if there is any exesive loss in compresion new barrels and pistons will be ordered and i will rework the head rether than chase problems,
my moto do it once, do it right 
____________________
"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews ) |
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| SnowTigeress |
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SnowTigeress
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SnowTigeress
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| Posted: 18:37 - 24 Jan 2012 Post subject: |
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oops double posted
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Real bikers build their own Renovated and Riding a 1986 Honda CB125TD-C called the Pup. Full Licence 13/09/2012, 1994 Moto Guzzi 750 Strada
Can-Do Girl that does spanners TOO!
TheSmiler: binning it is better than going around a roundabout the wrong way |
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| nightshaddow |
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nightshaddow
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SnowTigeress
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| mysterious_rider |
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mysterious_rider
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| Posted: 13:11 - 25 Jan 2012 Post subject: |
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old school bike! Pretty awesome mate you're doing well with it.
One question, how on earth does that carb balancer work? Easy to do? Considering doing my engine. Thanks! |
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| garth |
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garth
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
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| Posted: 14:12 - 25 Jan 2012 Post subject: |
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| garth wrote: | £150 overhauling a front brake on a CB125 is utter madness. |
No, just expensive.
And that's to overhaul the complete system; master-cylinder; hose, and the caliper.
Most of the cost of the job is in the caliper, which is a twin piston floating item, & Just because it's fitted to a little bike, doesn't mean the piece parts are going to be any cheaper!
Hence £16 x 2 for new pistons, accounting for near half the cost of overhauling the caliper.
Certainly galling to spend THAT much money on overhauling the caliper to go onto a 125, but still half the cost of overhauling the twin calipers on my 750.....
Did it on Snowie's bike, as a learning excersise, and she wouldn't have learned how to over-haul a caliper fitting a marginally 'better' second hand one....
And ultimately, before you GO, make sure you can STOP!
Brakes is important! It's cheaper than a top end rebuild, and no-one would suggest that was 'daft'!
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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nightshaddow
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| Welshd1k |
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Welshd1k
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
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| Posted: 16:41 - 25 Jan 2012 Post subject: |
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| Welshd1k wrote: | | garth wrote: | £150 overhauling a front brake on a CB125 is utter madness. |
exactly! buy a second hand one lmao could brobaly get a whole bike for that ! |
People spend more money than that to get less benefit; like buying removable baffle exhaust pipes!
Hmm, good BRAKES or a nice exhaust noise? Tricky one that..... I cant quite make up my mind, which is better to get. 
| nightshaddow wrote: | https://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/396443_10150568849223846_741698845_9141138_1983097861_n.jpg
any info on how to se this up in my bike would be greatly apreciated as my next post will show i think mine needs to come off road asap |
That looks like its a 12v motor. & Inside out mag-rotor suggests CDI ignition.
Make sure it turns over & has decent compression before you go any further.
Lump ought to slot straight into the frame, bolt for bolt, but personally I would:-
1: Pull the Rotor; ought to come off with I think an M14 bolt. If you dont have one, I'll stick one in the box of bits for you on Saturday. If it wont come off with that (& Chances are it wont!) Take lump to an engine reconditioners and get them to wip it off with a fancy hydraulic puller for you, for beer money.
Lurking in the back of that rotor is the Starter-Clutch. Simple mechanism, three rollers on ramps. Judging by the state of the rust on the rotor, the clutch will be in a horendouse state!
Clean up the rollers and the ramps, grease and reassemble, and you ought to avoid starting 'whine' the clutch not engaging, or worse, refusing to dissengage.
2: If the starter motor on your bike is 'good' wip that one off and fit it to this engine; remove an unknown quantity.
3; The difficult bit..... Sorting the ignition.
That engine has 360 Degree Crank, both pistons riding and falling together.
Your TD-E engine has 180 Crank, one piston up, one piston down.
Both engines run a 'lost spark' ignition, the coil sparking a plug umpety degrees fefore TDC on each revolution of the crank, triggered of a 'lump' on the Rotor, passing an inductor trigger.
Firing each rev, you get one spark when you want it, when the pistoin is rising on Compression stroke, and another, that is 'lost' firing when the piston is rising on the exhaust stroke, and makes no odds to anything.
The 360 Benley engine, with both pistons rising and falling together, can use a single ignition circuit, with a single 'Siamesed' coil, with two HT-Leads firing two spark plugs at teh same time... one pot will be on compression, one on exhaust...
The S-D engine with its 180 Crank, has to have two independent ignition circuits, one for each spark plug to give the 180 degree phase difference between firing intervals.
So your bike has two coils, two CDI units and two inductance triggers, places 180 degrees about the rotor inside the mag cover.
SO... fitting THAT engine, you need to take the inductor trigger signal from ONE of the two triggers, and feed it to BOTH CDi units, isolating the unused trigger.
It can be done replacing one coil with a siamese one, but the load on it can fry the CDi, so better to do as described.
You just have to do it in a way that is reversable, so check the wring diagram, I think that the inductor triggers come out in one 'branch' from the rotor cover, and go up to the main loom via a multi-way plug.
I would probably tap into the wiring there, on the spur from the mag-cover; isolating the two trigger feeds and bullet connectoring them so I could re-attach, when swapping back, and then use a Y piece to common the feed from whichever trigger gave the right timing, to the two CDi's.
Ignition on these bikes is self exited, and the ignition switch works on the CDi's, so it ought not need any more muggering around in the main loom; just the mag-cover spur.
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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nightshaddow
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| Triumph1300 |
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Triumph1300
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Posted: 17:46 - 25 Jan 2012  Post subject: |
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Rule 1 of compression testing - Open the throttle wide!
Rule 2 of compression testing - If values low, add a teaspoon of oil to the cylinder, and re-test. If it improves dramatically, it's the rings, if not, do the valve clearances.
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BWJ
Back on a BMW R80RT
Punctuation - the difference between knowing your shit, and knowing you're shit |
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nightshaddow
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nightshaddow
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| Posted: 19:31 - 25 Jan 2012 Post subject: |
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for some reason or another my videos didnt save this time so no video of the second tests
first of all i did the valve clearances then proceded with a dry test
left 60psi right70 psi
no change on the left + 10 psi on the right
both sets of tappets where above 0.05 mm but now set right
then i did a wet test  (put about 10ml 2 stroke oil in the cylinders)
left cylinder jumped to 90 psi right cylinder jumped to 110psi
a gain on the left of 50% a gain on the right of about 55%
i would definatly say time for a top end rebuild could be bad news but a full engine rebuild on its way anyway so no problem
____________________
"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews ) |
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| MickC |
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MickC
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| Posted: 19:40 - 25 Jan 2012 Post subject: |
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| nightshaddow wrote: |
i would definatly say time for a top end rebuild could be bad news but a full engine rebuild on its way anyway so no problem |
Yep! That sums that up. If your thinking of a total rebuild you may as well do it then. Shop around and you may fine some NOS barrels for less than a re-bore. Head, change valve seals and re seat valves job done! Apart from cam chains and anything else that crops up.
____________________
XX XXXx
Previous: CG125,XS250 (converted to 400),Z250A, GPZ550, Norton Commando, XS500, 78 Laverda Jota, GPZ1100,Harris bonneville, XV750 (mono shock),TR1 |
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Teflon-Mike
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 13 years, 356 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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