Yamaha yzf r125 (used) viewing check list

[illuminateTHE...]

Ok over the next couple of weeks i will viewing a load of yamaha yzf r125 by myself. I would like to extract some knowledge from you guys on the topic of the yamaha yzf r125, eg what to look out for, when to walk away, what year yamaha yzf 125 should i avoid, when a bike mileage is too much.


Wouldn't like to come off as lazy teen so i have searched around using google and this is what i have found, downside its not anything specific for the yamaha yzf 125.

The list below is'nt exhaustive but does cover the main points of the M.O.T test. Take a few minutes to give your beloved yammy the once over check and ensure that it is clean & tidy before presenting it for an M.O.T

Lights - condition, operation, security, and correct colour of headlamp's, rear lights, indicators and reflectors. Also the headlamp's will be checked to see if the aim is correct.
Lights and horn
Check that the lights work in all switch positions, that the lenses are not cracked and that the headlight beam height is correct. Also check that the turn signals function correctly and flash at the correct rate and that the horn is loud enough.

Steering and suspension - condition, security and operation including: forks, mountings, controls, bearings, etc.
Steering and suspension
Raise the front wheel off the ground and move the handlebars from lock to lock. They should turn freely and the handlebar ends should not make contact with the fuel tank.
With the front wheel off the ground, grasp the forks at the bottom and attempt to push and pull on them - any movement felt here could be due to excessive steering head bearing play.
With the bike resting on its wheels and the rider seated, apply the front brake and pump the front forks up and down. The front forks should operate smoothly with good damping action.
There should be no sign of oil leakage from the fork seals.
Bounce the rear of the bike to check rear suspension action.
Also check that there is no sign of oil leakage from the rear shock.
Raise the rear wheel off the ground and grasp the wheel at its highest point and attempt to pull it up. Movement felt here will be due to worn bearings in the suspension linkage or swingarm pivot.
Now grasp each swingarm end and attempt to move the swingarm from side to side and forwards and backwards - movement here indicates worn swingarm bearings.


Horn - correct operation and the right type.

Exhaust system - complete, secure, correct type (road legal) and not too noisy.
Exhaust
Check that the exhaust system is mounted correctly and securely. When the engine revs are increased check that the exhaust gases do not leak from any part of the system and that the exhaust noise is not excessively loud. The exhaust system, particularly the end can, must be UK legal.

Wheel alignment - correct alignment of front and rear wheels.

Frame - free from cracks, damage, distortion or corrosion which is likely to affect steering or brakes.

Wheels and tyres - wheel condition and security, tyre condition, size and type, and tread depth.
Wheels, tyres and drive chain
Check that the wheels are free of damage, such as cracks (cast wheels) or broken or bent spokes (spoked wheels).
Check that the drive chain is correctly adjusted and in good condition.
With the wheel raised off the ground check for wear of the bearings by grasping the wheel at opposite points and trying to move it about the axle.
Check tyre tread depth and tyre condition.
Check that the front and rear tyres are in correct alignment with each other.

Brakes - condition, operation and performance (efficiency test), and brake controls.
Brakes
Apply the brakes and check the wheels can rotate freely when the brakes are freed off. Ensure that the brake pads are not worn, that the fluid level in the reservoirs is correct and that there is no sign of brake fluid leakage. Check that the brake light comes on when each brake is applied.

[J.M.]

Do you really need the YZF125?

You'll have higher insurance premiums to deal with, an increased risk of the bike being stolen, etc.

You could buy yourself a cheaper 125 (like CG125 or YBR125) even though they don't look as pretty. With the money you save on the bike + insurance you could pass your tests, sell the bike for what you paid for it and then get a bigger bike which actually goes faster than 60mph.

The YZF-125 is no quicker really than a CG125 or YBR125, or any other 4-stroke 125.

I'd be hesitant to buy a YZF-125 because you can almost guarantee that all previous owners have purchased it with the purpose of ragging it rather than taking care of it.

That said, look for a general buyers guide for bikes, checking things like:
- bubbling paint on the frame
- health of chain and sprockets
- when the last oil change was

Also check things like:
- Battery voltage at idle and around 5k RPM
- Tyre tread remaining (mm)
- How well it starts from cold
- How much is left on the brake pads
- Cracks in the fairigs
- Logbook matches sellers address/name, etc.

Making sure to do a full HPI check.

Also check to ensure that frame/engine numbers have not been messed with in any way.

Then finally search the internet for common problems with the particular bike in question and add that to your list of checks to complete.
____________________
2004 R1 & 2018 XSR900

[ThoughtContro...]

I'd agree with the above post (not the Chinese spammer).

However another thing I'd add. If for any reason you suspect any engine noise, starting difficulty, or the oil is very low then walk away.

Why?

Read this thread:

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=249610


Given that the main buyers of this bike are likely to be those who will want to rag the crap out of it to see how fast it goes (full 14bhp , 84mph tops, woo hoo), given it's racy appearance, and that the piston construction may be somewhat delicate for such harsh treatment, at any signs of engine noises or problems I'd run away very fast.

If the bike likes eating pistons when treated too harshly, then that's one expensive problem I'd like to avoid, no matter how slim the chance.


To sound like a miserable old git like Teflon Mike , buy a CG/YBR/CBF, hell a used CBR if you must, do your test on it ASAP, then sell it and buy an SV or something (NC23/29/30?).

If you're really sold on that look and have deep pockets, buy an R6. All these would have to be restricted to 33bhp tho. The R6 would likely be a ballache restricted, all the former suggestions have been popular restricted bikes, look great and are a hoot.

Avoid all the BS that will come January 2013, with the new licence restrictions, when you lose the opportunity to have such fun.
____________________
Prize cunt
--
"In a world of universal deceit telling the truth is a revolutionary act" - George Orwell

[P.]

Its a serious waste for the next 5 months as a learner...before you get a bigger bike.
If you don't do your tests within 5 months, thats quite foolish as you'll be screwed for a while.

For the price of a YZF R125, lets say £2200.

CG/YBR £1000.
Mod 1 + 2 £100 if you pass 1st time.
Theory £35.

So £1135 plus £300 insurance.

£1435.

You'll get most of it back from selling the 125. Buy SV/sporty 400. You'll then laugh at all those with a YZF R125.

Think before you spunk cash on a plastic ridden glorified moped.

[Rogerborg]

Back on topic. Look at the side of the bike carefully. If it says "YZF R125" then you should walk away.

If that's the sort of bike that you want, then it's the wrong bike to get. Tef has it right on this one, get any cheap commuter, pass your tests, then get on the bike that you really want, or at least a closer facsimile.

Please don't say that you actually want a YZF - as opposed to any sporty styled 400+ - and expect to be taken seriously.

As of next January, there will be people for whom the YZF will be among the best bikes that they can ride. That's not you though. Reset your head.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[P.]

Put it this way OP.

You can get a bike that beats the YZF R125 in 1 gear. 1st gear on my GSXR750 (which is cheap on insurance btw...) went to an indicated 87 So 1 gear goes faster, looks better and sounds orgasmic in comparison to a wheezing buzzy 125.

[J.M.]

[Notj7]

I had a YZF R125. When I had it, I loved it. Now, every kid I see going past on one I think, holy shit what was I thinking?

A restricted CBR 600F goes 60 in first before really needing to change gear. Honestly, the YZF R125 sounds like a scooter, and as much as I loved mine, jumping up to a bigger bike has really been an eye-opener!

You'd be the envy of your mates with a bigger restricted bike and NO L plates.
____________________
Left the forum.

[P.]