Petrol Resistant Lacquer - Dog shit

[binge]

Has anybody had any experience with painting using the petrol resistant stuff from Halfords Retail store?

Reason I ask, is because I painted my Chaly last week, and then decided to throw a bit of petrol resistant stuff around the tank.
It just turned into a cloudy white orange peel. Even when applied super thin.

So I rubbed it back, and just painted in blue, and used standard lacquer again.

I dont have an issue getting a fantastic finish with standard stuff.

https://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s720x720/528755_10151074529130606_1391068969_n.jpg


Then I started to set the carb up, and splashed a load of petrol onto the frame around the carb. It fucked the paint right up.

So engine out, rub down, and re-paint.
Decided to have another go with the petrol resistant stuff, straight onto the fresh blue paint.
It went on fine, but it's dried really dull and flat. Looks like it has the original 1987 paint job on it again.


So how do I get rid of this?

Can it be brought back to life? Or is there a knack to applying this petrol resistant stuff?




Ta



Ben

[The Artist]

Yeh I used to use it all the time painting petrol tanks.

Key for me was lots of thin layers in hot weather. I was painting over gloss black.

Still wasn't very good but worked better than standard lacquer.

Like this but that one I used to use was green.
https://washford.scene7.com/is/image/Washford/768697?$prod$

[Teflon-Mike]

That Halfords Petrol Proof is nasty stuff.
Its not even petrol proof!
Petrol 'resistant' for a minute may-be, but sure as feck not 'proof'!
And yes, had it turn some colour coats milky.
https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/030_035_Yamaha_DT/imag2464.jpg
Pissed off with non-petrol-proof when I did the DT, I had a word with my localk freindly paint shop.
2-Pack in a Rattle Can!
Went over yellow (not metalic) celulose great. And IS petrol proof!
Expensive though, (£15 for 150ml can!)
And you get ONE shot... soon as whats on tank is hard, so is whats left in tin!
You have to be careful laying it on, too, becouse without solvent, what goes on stays on, and it rund easily if you put it on too heavy.
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[Pol Anorl]

Had exactly the same issue with halfrauds shit when i did the tank on the bros, was sexy till i laquerd it then it turned to shit.
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[Blau Zedong]

Used the Halfrauds shit on the YR5. No discolouration but it isn't exactly petrol proof either.
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[_matt]

as above.
Halfords spray on stuff was fine, emptied the full can in 10 thin layers over an hour on a hot day. looks... alright, nothing special
isn't petrol "proof" for shit tho! seems resistant to splashes etc in any case
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[binge]

In which case, I may as well just key it, blow it back over with blue paint, then lacquer it with the standard stuff again.
Then just be careful not to spill petrol on it.
It looks like it's been painted with a crayon at the moment.

[_Iain_]

Was told by kent paints;

Any 2k laquer would do it. We do em in aerosols but i cant find any at the moment - i can put an order in if you'd like?

But was on a phone delivery, dropping off to the bird up there. Figured was probbably best not to fuck about, and left the bike how it is. Whenever the paint fucks up, i just spray more on top.

Ahh the benifits of matt black
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[Lone-Wolf]

Wotcha.

Yep - I used Halfords petrol resistant lacquer. Stuff started crazing all over the place . . . . .then I read the tin.

No more than three coats, within a one hour "over coating" window.
Use it like that, and it works fine.

Moral of the story ?

Read the bloody tin first
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[U_W v2.0]

add Hycote petrol resistant lacquer to the shit list as well!

seriously, multiple decent coats and a little petrol spill and CAPOW! fucked up paint work.

hycote etching primer,
hycote polar white color coat
hycote petrol resist lacquer

and it made 0 freaking difference, still utter shit

AVOID!
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[binge]

I might just book the frame in for spraying professionally now I've got all my additional parts painted.
The reason I didnt get it sprayed pro to start with was because I have been undecided on so many things.
Just a shame because I can get an absolutely perfect finish with the blue paint in a tin, even with regular lacquer, it looks spot on.
But just not resistant to petrol.

[Rogerborg]

You know that rattle can lacquer takes weeks to cure, right? It's not going to resist so much as a hard stare until then.
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[mentalboy]

It's not just rattle can lacquer that takes ages to cure. when it gets sprayed on here we've got about a two week window to polish it up, it's an absolute nightmare trying to polish the stuff when the item's been thrown in the corner and we come to polish it months later!
With the new stuff you have to avoid fingernails, bumps and solvents for ages, Id be surprised if it was any different for petrol resistant canned stuff.
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[binge]

[Shaft]

[Frost]

I've battled with the halfrauds stuff too, but i got it to work in the end.
Everything must be super dry including the humidity or it goes milky. The milkyness does disappear after 24h though.
The petrol resistance doesn't seem to kick in for at least a week. Flatting things down after a week, then applying wax also helps a great deal as it means the petrol beads up and rolls off rather than sitting on the paint. It's still only splash proof though, soak something in fuel and it'll dissolve.

[Rogerborg]

That sounds like good advice. I got OK results from the Halfrauds stuff but in hot, dry weather, and applied as per the instructions. It ran like a French soldier though.
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GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[mentalboy]

[Shaft]

[mentalboy]

I'm sure all the guns that we have are HVLP, regulator set low enough not to fill a bike tyre! Have to check it out.
Water based paints much cheaper?
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[Shaft]

[mentalboy]

It would appear that our guns are LVLP, presumably this still works with aquabased paint?
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Make mine a Corona.

[Shaft]

I can't see why they wouldn't, but I would check with your paint supplier.
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[mentalboy]

We've just had this come in. Not a self do job, only done 3 or 4 months ago. Paint peeling off and when we removed the warning sticker (which owner was told had been put in different place to original because it looked better) we find it's been used to cover up where the monkey sanded through the lacquer - that smudge just behind the hinge.
Owner was told by the paint shop that if he wanted the tank resprayed properly to rectify their peeling paint it'd cost him again!
Looks like two different primers used, one of which has let go from the bare metal.
This is the second job we've had in recently from other places that have done a slap dash job - so if you want a paint job done properly make sure it's from a reputable (preferably recommended)sprayer.
https://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r601/mentalboy1/P8170190.jpg
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Make mine a Corona.

[Shaft]

TBF, that's a bloody awful picture, so it's a bit hard to see what's going on, apart from there's far too much material on there and it hasn't been taken far enough up the filler neck.

I'm also a bit wary of slagging off other painters, because you'll never know what they were actually asked to do; in my experience, the vast majority of punters haven't the first idea what the cost of a quality paint job is and, even worse, they've always got a mate/work colleague/bloke down the pub, that has clued them in, so they know what needs to be done, regardless of what the painter has advised them.

Some people will just go ahead and do whatever the customer asks for, which is fair enough, but it sometimes ends up in someone else putting it right, when it was really the fault of the customer.
____________________
Things get better with age; I'm close to being magnificent........
20 RE Interceptor, 83 Z1100A3, 83 GS650 Katana
WooHoo, I'm a Man Point Millionaire! https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=234035