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GPX 750R Been stood for about 5 years. What to check?

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DreadHead
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PostPosted: 09:51 - 10 Sep 2012    Post subject: GPX 750R Been stood for about 5 years. What to check? Reply with quote

As the title suggests I have just laid my hands on a Kawasaki GPX 750R as a winter poject. Its a 1986 model

It has been dry stored in a garage for about 5 years, (possibly longer)

The previous owner got it at around 19000 miles and has owned it for about 12 years, it is now just on 23k, he last had it on the road about 5 years ago.

The engine has been regularly turned over, and apparently has had new filters, oil and plugs recently (Haven't yet checked to confirm this)

The tank was drained of fuel, with just enough being put in to run it every month or so.

It's got a new battery, starts from cold on the button but is a little lumpy at idle so I'm thinking the carbs need looking at, although this has been done too recently according to the seller. Once warmed up it's a lot better, but still slightly lumpy.

Electrics and lights all work ok too. I'll be checking the usual brakes, tyres chain etc.

Looks like it may need the fork seals doing and the back tyre is definitely past its best. Chain could do with a clean and lube too.

Bodywork is a bit tatty, so will need a paint job at some point, or I could streetfighter it?

Is there anythiing else I should check on this before putting it through an MOT?
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Riding - '87 Kawasaki GPX750R (Rolling Restoration) and '06 YBR125.
Want - Triumph Speed Four or Street Triple


Last edited by DreadHead on 13:16 - 10 Sep 2012; edited 1 time in total
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 09:57 - 10 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally I'd examine all rubber parts like brake hoses etc very carefully, and I'd probably ditch both tyres and buy new ones. It could probably do with a new battery if it hasn't already had one, and I'd probably replace the coolant and brake fluid too.
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kotachi
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PostPosted: 10:25 - 10 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it was drained of fuel check the tank for rust Thumbs Up
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 10:40 - 10 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rubber*, fluids, battery.

*That's seals, tyres and hoses

As kotachi says, if the tank's been left fairly empty, then there's a chance that some rust may have formed. If it has, then it's worth taking a look at my GS resurrection thread, because it has a rather good writeup by Robby on how to acid strip a tank's innards.

Sorting the carbs is a pain in the arse, but a valuable learning experience. You've also got the advantage that it's been run periodically - I had to scrub 3 decades' worth of sediment out of mine.

You'll want to replace the tyres anyway - they'll have gone hard over time, and won't be much fun to ride one. Also, keep a close eye on the chain - personally, I'd replace it, but YMMV. Since it's not been ridden for a while, then the chain's not been under any stresses, but it also means that the O rings may have perished.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 11:05 - 10 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

As above plus check the wheel bearings if it's not been moved regularly.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 12:45 - 10 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

:karma: hi dude,

basically you will have to check everything. sorry but thats what you will have to do. :D
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 12:48 - 10 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
Karma hi dude,

basically you will have to check everything. sorry but thats what you will have to do. Very Happy


Not helpful. He won't have to check everything, the engine internals should be perfectly fine, for example. The exhaust should be OK if it was in good condition before it was stored and the frame should be OK too. The clocks will be OK, as will all of the electrics.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Budgetboy
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PostPosted: 14:35 - 10 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its all been said really..

Fluids will also include fork oil.. i suspect this will need doing as all of the rubbish will have sat at the bottom of the forks. Change seals while you are at it..

Coolant,fuel,brake fluid.. Bin tyres and get new as said.Chain might be ok as long as there are no stiff parts in it.If there is then bin it and replace.

If it were me i would go over everything and just check things.. Like while the rear wheel is out lube the linkages..
Front wheel out (with forks) ....lube headbearings.. you get the idea..

grab yourself a haynes manual as this will help you.. in the front of these there i a service checklist type thing IIRC.. use this as your guide.
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 10 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Budgetboy wrote:
Fluids will also include fork oil.. i suspect this will need doing as all of the rubbish will have sat at the bottom of the forks. Change seals while you are at it..

Meh. I didn't have a problem with it, in my case, and my bike had been sat for a good couple of times the period that this one has. Changing the fork oil was an improvement, but it wasn't as world-shattering as I thought it might be.

Budgetboy wrote:
grab yourself a haynes manual as this will help you.. in the front of these there i a service checklist type thing IIRC.. use this as your guide.

As I've already indicated in this post, the Haynes manuals aren't anywhere near as good as they're made out to be. Traditionally, they were very good - proper exploded diagrams (and not just bad photocopies form the manufacturer's manual, either), but they've since gone downhill quite badly. Get hold of the Manufacturer's workshop manual - Carl Salter's site is an absolute godsend for this sort of stuff.

Manufacturer manual > Clymer manual > Haynes manual.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:33 - 10 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hydraulic lifters on the GPX so don't die of fright if it rattles like a bucket of chains when you first start it. Might be a good idea to disable the ignition and give it a good long crank over to bring the oil up first.
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Triumph1300
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PostPosted: 17:12 - 10 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If my GPX was anything to go by, the clutch will probably be stuck, and take a lot of rocking and swearing to free off! Very Happy
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DreadHead
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PostPosted: 21:01 - 10 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

nowhere.elysium wrote:
Budgetboy wrote:
Fluids will also include fork oil.. i suspect this will need doing as all of the rubbish will have sat at the bottom of the forks. Change seals while you are at it..

Meh. I didn't have a problem with it, in my case, and my bike had been sat for a good couple of times the period that this one has. Changing the fork oil was an improvement, but it wasn't as world-shattering as I thought it might be.

Budgetboy wrote:
grab yourself a haynes manual as this will help you.. in the front of these there i a service checklist type thing IIRC.. use this as your guide.

As I've already indicated in this post, the Haynes manuals aren't anywhere near as good as they're made out to be. Traditionally, they were very good - proper exploded diagrams (and not just bad photocopies form the manufacturer's manual, either), but they've since gone downhill quite badly. Get hold of the Manufacturer's workshop manual - Carl Salter's site is an absolute godsend for this sort of stuff.

Manufacturer manual > Clymer manual > Haynes manual.


Think a fork seal may be shot anyway, previous owner said it seemed to dive on left hand corners when he took it for a spin the other day, so I'll definitely check that.

Agree with the Haynes, quality of both the information and the paper they're actuall printed on is not what it used to be!

Pete. wrote:
Hydraulic lifters on the GPX so don't die of fright if it rattles like a bucket of chains when you first start it. Might be a good idea to disable the ignition and give it a good long crank over to bring the oil up first.


Didn't notice it the other day when I went to look at it, but I wasn't particularly listening for it. Will check that too.

Triumph1300 wrote:
If my GPX was anything to go by, the clutch will probably be stuck, and take a lot of rocking and swearing to free off! Very Happy


It seemed to work ok when I looked yesterday, but will have a proper look when I get it in my garage.

Thanks for all the replies and tips guys, should be picking the bike up tomorrow eve, so will have a better look then.

May do a show and tell on the restoration if anyones interested? (Plus I can pick your brains too) Thumbs Up
____________________
CBT √ Passed, Theory √ Passed, Mod 1 √ Passed, Mod 2 √ Passed
Riding - '87 Kawasaki GPX750R (Rolling Restoration) and '06 YBR125.
Want - Triumph Speed Four or Street Triple
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Johnser
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PostPosted: 23:11 - 10 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

all been said really, +1 on going through a full service with a decent manual, even if its not going to have deteriorated over 5 years, at 23K and other previous owners, stuff may well be broken, bodged, or just worn out anyway.

get rid of the oil that's in there asap, if its been in there for 5 years and has had someone starting it every few months, it'll be full of condensation and other dissolved nasties that will not be helping your engine.

replace with a cheap oil and dump after your first decent run.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 10:58 - 11 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Karma so basically it basically check everything, basically....... Karma

start at the front and work your way to the back, steady as you go and service everthing in between.

some pics would be good, check exploded views on cmnsl......... etc........ Very Happy
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DreadHead
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PostPosted: 14:51 - 11 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Picking the bike up in an hour or two, will hopefully get some pics up tonight. Been looking for a service manual but only found one in german so far! Got a copy of the Haynes book of bedtimes stories though.

Carl Salter didn't have a manual for this but CMNSL looks promising,cheers everyone
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CBT √ Passed, Theory √ Passed, Mod 1 √ Passed, Mod 2 √ Passed
Riding - '87 Kawasaki GPX750R (Rolling Restoration) and '06 YBR125.
Want - Triumph Speed Four or Street Triple
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andys675
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 11 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

check the exits and run llike crazy
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DreadHead
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 11 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right, picked the bike up tonight. Brakes are binding slightly and tyres are soft so it was fun moving it when not under its own power. Seems to shift gear ok (Only rode it up the drive in first)

Definitely needs chain and sprockets and tyres.

Bodywork is tatty, and I need a lower fairing for it.

Heres a pic
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CBT √ Passed, Theory √ Passed, Mod 1 √ Passed, Mod 2 √ Passed
Riding - '87 Kawasaki GPX750R (Rolling Restoration) and '06 YBR125.
Want - Triumph Speed Four or Street Triple
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 21:39 - 11 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Hydraulic lifters on the GPX so don't die of fright if it rattles like a bucket of chains when you first start it.


Not sure they are. Are you confusing it with the CBX750?

All the best

Keith
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 13:50 - 12 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Pete. wrote:
Hydraulic lifters on the GPX so don't die of fright if it rattles like a bucket of chains when you first start it.


Not sure they are. Are you confusing it with the CBX750?

All the best

Keith


Might be Keith, now you mention it. If the CBX had hydraulic lifters then probably, yes.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Kris
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PostPosted: 14:02 - 12 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wasn't it a version of the GPX motor that was later used in the ZXR750 in '89? Looks very similar.

Timing belt then, isn't it?
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 23:05 - 12 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The GPX engine was developed into the ZXR engine. Think the valve adjustment is different. Think it is a belt driven alternator.

All the best

Keith
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Triumph1300
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PostPosted: 07:55 - 13 Sep 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

GPX has cam chain, mechanical valve clearances, and belt drive alternator
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