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Best solution for cleaning bolts/nuts

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MTX_Josh
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PostPosted: 00:01 - 06 Mar 2012    Post subject: Best solution for cleaning bolts/nuts Reply with quote

restoring my mtx , have alot bolts and nuts to clean up anybody got any good ideas? they have dusty mud/slight white spots/oil etc of them

thanks,
Josh
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lukamon
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PostPosted: 01:26 - 06 Mar 2012    Post subject: Re: Best solution for cleaning bolts/nuts Reply with quote

MTX_Josh wrote:
restoring my mtx , have alot bolts and nuts to clean up anybody got any good ideas? they have dusty mud/slight white spots/oil etc of them

thanks,
Josh



drill in a vice with wire brush wheel Thumbs Up
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lukamon
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PostPosted: 01:26 - 06 Mar 2012    Post subject: Re: Best solution for cleaning bolts/nuts Reply with quote

MTX_Josh wrote:
restoring my mtx , have alot bolts and nuts to clean up anybody got any good ideas? they have dusty mud/slight white spots/oil etc of them

thanks,
Josh



drill in a vice with wire brush wheel Thumbs Up
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janner_10
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PostPosted: 08:01 - 06 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a clean up mine like the above then sprayed with hammerite, never quite looked right. In the end i found a guy selling a whole new set of s/s ones for £16 on ebay, which was a bloody bargain i though.
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 08:09 - 06 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

^This^

Many sellers offering complete stainless nut, bolt and washer sets for specific bikes - some OEM bolts are cadmium plated and will seize solid after being wire-brushed!

New stainless bolts, with a tiny smear of copper grease, is a much safer option.
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 08:41 - 06 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Soak the lot in paraffin or diesel for a few hours/days, get the worst of the crud of with a suede brush or tooth brush, then:-

A "Scotchbrite" kitchen scourer will get a lot of crud off, but is fiddly work if you've got loads of items to clean.

A polishing mop and cleaning paste in a, vice mounted, drill is good.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 09:31 - 06 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't get stainless. Stainless promote alluminium alloy corrosion, which is a bad thing - there is a reason that manufacturers use plated mild steel. Cheap stainless bolts are often crap as well, so they shear too easily, then are difficult to drill out.

There are a few ways to clean up bolts. Either let them soak in a solvent to loosen the crap then clean with an abrasive, run them though an electrolysis bath (my favourite, least effort) or get a zinc plating kit and do that (best finish and long lasting).

I recommend sticking with the original nuts and bolts where possible. Old Japanese metal often has a bit of a reputation for being crap, but this is more often down to it being seized in place where it hasn't been touched for 10 years. A smear of copper grease or vaseline on the threads during reassembly helps.

Yes, vaseline. People get concerned that it will melt out of the threads, but in my experience it tends to stay locked in for a long time - the thread is done up tight, so there isn't much space for melted grease to leak out. It takes long enough for penetrating oil to get in, and it is much thinner.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 10:36 - 06 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Yes, vaseline. People get concerned that it will melt out of the threads, but in my experience it tends to stay locked in for a long time - the thread is done up tight, so there isn't much space for melted grease to leak out. It takes long enough for penetrating oil to get in, and it is much thinner.



Why use bum lube over lithium grease?

Unless specified differently in the OEM workshop manual then I use copper grease or loctite on fasteners depending on what I want it to do between now and the next time I want it out (i.e. anything crucial gets loctite, everything not gets copper), lithium grease on anything that moves (spindles etc as copper grease is slightly abrasive), red rubber grease on brake sliders/pistons (rubber safe) and anything internal gets liberal dosings of engine oil.


+1 on the stainless steel usually being snap happy crap, certainly wouldn't use it for anything structural. Things like s/s fairing bolts and other non load bearing fasteners are rather harmless, I've never had any galvanic corrode on me but I do have a copper greasing OCD.
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 11:28 - 06 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
- there is a reason that manufacturers use plated mild steel. .


There certainly is and that is purely cost.
They use whatever does the job and comes out cheapest. There is no reason not to use stainless in non stress areas providing you use a suitable anti seize compound be it the expensive purpose made modern ones or old fashioned copper grease as long as you bear in mind you get increased clamping force at the same torque when you use a "lubricant" on threads so don't overtighten them.
You get galvanic/electrolytic reaction with any dissimilar metals, some more than others, the advantage of stainless is you don't get the added problem of rust also binding/seizing the threads.
I'm also with DB as being afflicted by Copperslip OCD Embarassed
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 12:38 - 06 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

All the people suggesting using abrasives are wrong IMO, if you wire wheel them, you will remove the plating and they will rust to buggery in days. Either get yourself a plating kit or send them off to be plated.

Chris
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dansidi
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PostPosted: 09:59 - 07 Mar 2012    Post subject: very interesting... Reply with quote

Thanks for this very interesting thread (no pun intended).

I would be interested in finding out more about zinc plating.
Some of my bike's bolts and the chain adjusters are looking manky even though they're not old. No amount of wire brushing with paraffin can shift the marks.

Can anyone tell me what I need for the occasional clean up of some bits and bolts? A quick scan on eBay shows zinc plating kits from £30 - £120 but I don't know what I'm looking for really.

Any good links or tips ?

Thanks
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:51 - 07 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a dirt bike. Stop being so precious about it.
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janner_10
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PostPosted: 15:35 - 07 Mar 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

janner_10 wrote:
I had a clean up mine like the above then sprayed with hammerite, never quite looked right. In the end i found a guy selling a whole new set of s/s ones for £16 on ebay, which was a bloody bargain i though.


Well the new ss bolt kit arrived this morning - its pretty shit to be fair - looks like some spazzy apprentice just stuck about 300 random bits in a bag - doesn't seem tailored to the bike.

Anyhow, stuck some old ones in the ultrasonic cleaner and they came up nice.

Anyone tried nickel plating their bolts / nuts? - reason I ask is I can plate them in nickel at work really easily - or try it an see?
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ruck bodgers2
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PostPosted: 01:08 - 02 Oct 2012    Post subject: Re: Best solution for cleaning bolts/nuts Reply with quote

lukamon wrote:
MTX_Josh wrote:
restoring my mtx , have alot bolts and nuts to clean up anybody got any good ideas? they have dusty mud/slight white spots/oil etc of them

thanks,
Josh



drill in a vice with wire brush wheel Thumbs Up


bang on my remedy to . put a nut on them to put in the vice so you dont clamp your thread and make it ghey

chris . if there already rusty whats to loose . u can seal em afterwards as well . or before and use a fine cloth and a spanner size up. but i really like the sound of a home plating kit . ill be looking into that one

ima give sids procedure a go to. cheers

Laughing is it sad to be excited about clean nuts
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Matt-
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PostPosted: 09:08 - 02 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just leave it anyway, no point in playing them, they will only get trashed again with sockets & spanners.

Their really is know point is worrying, their MTX bolts their going to be drowned in mud & shit anyway.

If your that worried about the girls seeing bad bolts in your bike I would go for a bolt kit on eBay, of course from a trusted seller.

Matt
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