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where to buy special style bolts?

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tahrey
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 15 Oct 2012    Post subject: where to buy special style bolts? Reply with quote

Riiight
Taking engine off CG frame, the final rear mount bolt was a complete fecker. Managed to destroy a 12mm socket and a couple adaptors for my torque wrench and breaker bars before it was persuaded to come free with a lot of WD40, application of a 1600w heat gun for 10+ minutes, and a lot of hammering and battering.

Suffice to say it's all chewed up and nut doesn't even really go on any more. I need a new one...

But where the bloody hell do you get them? Anywhere I've tried to look this style up I've got nothing.

M6, 12mm hex-head bolt, 110~120mm long, only has thread on the last 10~15mm or so, fairly close pitch thread (not a coach bolt), and it seems to flare out to about M8 near the head for a similar length as the thread. Plus an M6, 12mm nut to go with.

About to check with my friendly neighbourhood bike dealer/service place and see if they happen to have any generic ones in, I'm hoping it's not Honda stealership only though, as it'll really hold me up getting anything else done. I'm already about to be about twenty quid in the hole for replacement and/or upgraded tooling, because some of the bits that got broken are going to be quite essential for the next stages, never mind putting the bike back together.

Me & mum's partner had a good pore through the Machine Mart, Toolstation, Screwfix etc catalogues he had scattered about and couldn't find anything suitable - any bolt long enough was then too thick. Halfords look pretty useless on this front as well.

Ta for any help Razz
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:43 - 15 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

A 12mm head bolt would be an M8 thread, not M6. Can you check that before continuing? Measure across the thread tops.

Or post a photo of the knackered bolt (so we can all have a laff) Smile
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Joenitro
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 15 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Send your mrs into a bike breakers for one. If you went they probably wouldn't be arsed looking for you but will do anything for a woman as they don't see many. I've used this method many times and it works a treat
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:51 - 15 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just checked my stock and the longest M8 I have is 93mm.
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WillOdling
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PostPosted: 18:20 - 15 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it this?





https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CG-125-1984-Rear-Engine-Mounting-Bolt-breaking-for-spares-/251161514193?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3a7a6490d1&_uhb=1
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 15 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've a suitable bolt. PM your details and I'll send it to you tomorrow.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 15 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can confirm the bolt is not really nessasary... I dont know how many of the 49k miles my CG had been without that bolt.

Original was snapped thread on clutch side. Bolt was held captive by sprocket cover, rattled a bit..

Note clutch side, the exhaust/rear brake/frame bits may prevent you getting *anything* on, socket or spanner, so you cant actually tighten it.

Was over a year ago, and a 1993 model, so you may have more luck with yours.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 06:56 - 16 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can fit it you should fit it. Sure, the engine won't fall out for lack of a single bolt (I've seen several spine frame bikes with the top triangle engine mount totally missing) but it will cause flex in the frame and extra vibration (even if you can't feel it) which will be bad for the engine and other parts of the bike, like the exhaust.
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tahrey
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PostPosted: 12:25 - 16 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks chaps. I was hoping there was somewhere I could stop in at on the way home, so I could get the job sorted quicker, but it looks like this stuff is rather more specialist than the plain bolts I got hold of to hold the ignition coils onto my old Megane... (the silly sods used spline-heads originally Shocked so yeah, chewed to hell getting them out)

I figure I may as well just go order from the dealer at this point, despite them not being my most favourite people owing to their habit of locking up and turning the lights off at about 5.30 despite their opening hours reading as "until 5.45". Anything that could be posted or got off ebay will take even longer to turn up.

And in any case, thanks to having to go replace the broken tools and do a few other errands last night, I didn't then have the time to head across town and attack the business of removing the head and barrel from the old bottom end, so I'm already held up. I guess I won't have it back running on the road before the end of the week at this rate now Confused

For what it's worth, my assumptions of what it is come from direct measurements with a brand-new metal ruler.

Used a 12mm spanner and socket to get it off;
the total length of the thing from top of the hex head to the end of the thread is 115mm;
the thread diameter is exactly 6mm;
there's roughly 13mm (I guess actually a half inch?) of thread at the bottom - of which only half is actually used (the rest is rusted to hell);
and I didn't measure the width or length of the flared bit because I only noticed quite a bit later. Didn't measure the thread pitch either because no bugger ever specifies it and I was going to have to check it visually anyhow.

At a guess, it started life as a 120mm, M8 bolt, but was then machined to be thinner in the middle and at the business end, and had a half centimetre shaved off the total length for good measure?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:35 - 16 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very strange. I don't believe I've ever seen a M6 bolt with a 12mm hex head.
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 16:44 - 16 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Very strange. I don't believe I've ever seen a M6 bolt with a 12mm hex head.

That's a new one on me too. I reckon that he should return his new metal ruler and get it calibrated.
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tahrey
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PostPosted: 16:44 - 16 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably why I need to get it direct from the OEM then! Laughing
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:50 - 16 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd still lke to see a picture of the offending item.
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stavros
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PostPosted: 17:54 - 16 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

try this lot for pictures and dimensions of honda stuff

https://www.cmsnl.com/search.php?s_keyword=bolt&Button_Insert=search&partblk_category=&partblk_block=&part_hotitem=&model_id=2601&part_category=Frame

ignore the euro price, there is one with pounds but can't find that at the moment. Rolling Eyes

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tahrey
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PostPosted: 11:16 - 17 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I actually still have it in my work bag, so I might actually get a pic in a bit... with a second ruler for comparison. Unfortunately the day's getting rather busy so I can't guarantee the opportunity for it.

I'm just going to order from the stealer now I think, I didn't do it yesterday because I half-remembered seeing some kind of through-bolt on the new block which might have been salvageable.

Unfortunately it looks like there's a lot of drilling and/or dremel-ing in my immediate future (and maybe some serious blowtorching) because not only is the nut absolutely seized to that bolt to the point that even proper hex sockets (on a brand new near-as-dammit-solid T-bar plus hard rubber mallet acting as an impact driver, no less) were rounding off both ends, but there's the stub of another presumably very bent bolt wedged in another one of the mount holes - badly enough that hammering on it from inside (with a drift) or out has failed to shift it a millimetre. Even soaked them in WD40 and gave a good blast with a heat gun but got nowhere. Hopefully the apparent softness of the metal means they won't be too hard to chop up and eke out.
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tahrey
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 17 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

stavros wrote:
try this lot for pictures and dimensions of honda stuff


Unfortunately they don't appear to have engine mount bolts on the list; and even if it's actually the same thing as e.g. the swingarm bolt (which I figure is actually a bit meatier?), they haven't given the dimensions for quite a few of those things, including that... though, seeing certain things on the list does remind me I also need to get fresh small-diameter hose to go between the PAIR and carb, as it got split and damaged as I was struggling it off. Duct tape might fix, or might not...

I have now come across a surplus 19" server cabinet rack that's got bolts and captive-nuts for mounting it, sitting around at work, and the nuts have "M6" stamped on the side. I'll use those for comparison I think!
(unfortunately the bolts are very short!)

EDIT: Presented without comment.
https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cg125es-2004-england_model2599/cock-assy-fuel_16950kb5720/
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kestrel
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 17 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Very strange. I don't believe I've ever seen a M6 bolt with a 12mm hex head.


Pete.
Japanese manufacturers often strayed from conventional head sizes on bolts. One in particular that springs to mind is the main engine mounting bolts on an XS650. They are 10mm fine thread bolts, the nut takes a 17mm spanner as you would expect, but the bolt head is flanged and takes a 14mm spanner. I've come across this anomaly several times in the past.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:17 - 17 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

kestrel wrote:
Pete. wrote:
Very strange. I don't believe I've ever seen a M6 bolt with a 12mm hex head.


Pete.
Japanese manufacturers often strayed from conventional head sizes on bolts. One in particular that springs to mind is the main engine mounting bolts on an XS650. They are 10mm fine thread bolts, the nut takes a 17mm spanner as you would expect, but the bolt head is flanged and takes a 14mm spanner. I've come across this anomaly several times in the past.


Yup, I've seen that too, in fact I have such a bolt on the rear suspension linkage of my bike M10, 14mm hex. I think it's done because of the fine thread to stop the unwitting over-torquing the bolt. M6 thread with a 12mm hex head though - I've never seen that I'm sure. That would make a bolt very easy to strip with 'normal' spanner force.
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 21:16 - 17 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Decyphering the original post, I concluded that the bolt required would be a M8 x120. I have a number of these bolts and offered to send one to the OP. He didn't respond to my offer.
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tahrey
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PostPosted: 09:23 - 22 Oct 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raffles wrote:
Decyphering the original post, I concluded that the bolt required would be a M8 x120. I have a number of these bolts and offered to send one to the OP. He didn't respond to my offer.


Sorry Raffles - nothing personal, I just figured it might be quicker from the dealer (hmm, sort of. just.) and it'd be worth putting a brand new one in anyway. Otherwise I'd have been all over your generosity!

It also appears you were almost bang on the money...


CHR15 wrote:
its been a while since ive had the engine out my cg, but theres no way its m6.

its more like m10x1.25


Aha, now, I have actually taken a load of pics I was going to upload and ask for comments on (as well as others featuring the crankcase / top and bottom of barrel / head, cylinder liner etc), but it does seem to have come out that the closest match is - roughly - m8 x 120mm (I presume the "m" denotes typical "machine screw/bolt" pitch, whatever that is?).

It's rather hard to tell when measuring the thing up with a ruler rather than calipers or the like, mind (note to self: nip into Aldi/Lidl and see if they have any left from the special offer they were doing on various tools*). Depending how I position and look at it, I seem to get anything from just over 6mm to almost 7.5mm wide ... but never 8mm?!
(* their 4-way pick set and 3-way plier set have already done me proud on this job, a fiver or so well spent)

The flared part is closer to 10mm wide.

And the overall length from tip to tip is 115mm. Actual bolt minus the hex-head is a smidge under 110.

Also, the things appear to be made out of depleted friggin' uranium. There's still one that is - bafflingly - stuck in one of the new bottom end's through-holes, and I've destroyed several regular drill and dremel bits trying to get it out, after working my way through about 3 dremel diamond cutting wheels (two shattered from over enthusiasm, one worn down to almost nothing when I learned some self control) chopping the stub flush with the block. Blowtorching it to hell, soaking it with penetrating oil, etc, has done nothing. Luckily it's one of the front-mount bolts, so the engine is held in reasonably firmly with three for now...

Would it be a better idea to get some hardcore bits and try drilling the fecker out myself (with a good quality, borrowed Ryobi mains-powered hammer drill, at low speed, with a water pistol squirting South Staff's finest liquid coolant on it all), or find somewhere (where?) to do it for me after carefully riding over there?
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