feeler gauge question and a quick carb question.

[mikojh]

I'm going to be doing some maintenance this to hopefully sort a power problem with 3rd onwards. Just no power after 8000 revs i noticed the problem got 10 times worse when i fill my tank up about 2 thirds of the way seems there's more power with less petrol in the tank. Although it still sucks. Anyway below are a few things that id like to no the answers to before messing around with it. To save making numerous threads just though id shoot these questions from the same topic.

The ranges for my clearance from my bikes manual is:

Suzuki EN125-2A
inlet 0.04-0.07mm
outlet 13-0.18mm

However all of the gauges on ebay dont even go up to 13mm. Whats also curious is why they have listed the biggest number first?

My guess in either can be between those ranges yes?

Clearances from the haynes manual for gs/dr are:

No separate figures just one set which is 0.08-0.13mm

Now the second set make more sense to me. Can anyone clear up this inlet/outlet shit as it has me confused should i be adjusting two valves when doing this. Just for the record the bike has 18000 miles on it and as far as i know the valves have never been checked. Although I had a compression test done the other day which came out at 140 and the guy that did it said its not likely to be the valves causing the problem. I'm doing it anyway just to check it off the list. Can anyone recommend a cheap gauge set that will test these ranges as i cant find one that does 13mm.

My other question is about the carb. When disassembling the carb to be cleaned when taking the floats bowls off does any sort of measuring have to be done when re-installing them (the float bowls)? This is whats making me hesitant to clean them although the carb will be the very last thing i do after checking the clearance and cleaning and flushing the tank and checking for air leaks/air box. Are any special measuring tools needed to reassemble the carb after the jets have been cleaned.

Another thing that has me wondering is basically i have an inlet rubber from the carb to cylinder head which looks perished with some cracks here and there. Person who checked the compression for me advised to spray some wd40 on the inlet rubber to see if there was a leak he also mentioned the revs should go up if there is a leak or it would suck the wd40 in. Done this the revs didn't go up and to be honest i couldn't tell whether it was sucking anything in or not. Dunno just hard to tell. So can anyone give me any tips for checking for air leaks this is just precursor stuff i want to get out of the way before having to disassemble the carb.

Sorry to ask so many questions but just thought id collect them all in to one topic instead of just starting separate topics for each thing.

Basically to summarise what Id like to know:
The two different sets of figures up top which is correct? Are there two seperate valves inlet/outlet or just one? Do i need a gauge that will go to 13mm. Why is the largest figure in those figures first?

Does any measuring need to be done when reassembling the float bowls? Any carb cleaning tips to avoid any problems wouldn't go a miss either as this will be the first time I'm attempting this.

Also any air leak checking tips would also be very helpful. I've tried wd40 on the rubber with the bike running and not running and I couldn't really tell the difference, it did look like it was being sucked in but then again that could have just been an illusion from spraying into the cracks as it behaved the same when the bike was running and when it wasn't.

[at106]

The valve clearance of 13mm is wrong and im guessing it should be 0.13mm. Any set of feeler gauges for these ranges will be fine

When you strip and clean the carb no measuring is required unless you want to check the float height which could be a good idea! To do this you can use a steel rule of vernier caliper.

To check for air leaks start the bike and leave it idling, if it has an air leak when you spray wd40 around the rubber the revs will change.

[numpty2]

I'm going to take a chance on the clearance thing not being a wind-up...

This will just be a typo error. Exhaust clearance will be 0.13 - 0.18mm.
Actually 0.18 sounds a bit much to me, and I'd be tempted to go with the Haynes manual.

I think that engine is a single cylinder, but I don't know how many valves you have (1 or 2 inlet, 1 or 2 exhaust).

Since it is a single you just need to find top dead centre, and at this point you check all the inlet & exhausts.

If you're not sure, look on the internet where someone will have posted a video.

[mikojh]

[Pete.]

It's a typo, plain and simple. It's supposed to read 0.13mm
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[numpty2]

I've never been too slavish with regard to the manual timings.

For instance I tend to change oil more frequently, but check the valve clearances less frequently.

When I get a bike I do everything ASAP, but then I do things as I see fit.
I tend not to check spark plugs, I simply change them when I'm checking the valve clearances. You've got to take the plugs out anyway, why not just change them. It also reduces the opportunity to damage the plug threads.

[mikojh]

[temeluchus]

[mikojh]

Would the wd40 trick work on both ends ie the air filter pipe as well? A typo in a manual for a bike manufactured in china cant say im surprised.