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A list of tools to save for

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J.M.
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PostPosted: 14:48 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: A list of tools to save for Reply with quote

In the new year sometime I want to completely strip by bike down and rebuild it. I'm talking full service.

I want to do it for a few reasons; to increase my knowledge and because the engine is running a little rough. Whilst it's in bits I'll take the chance to tidy it up a bit too; maybe paint the frame, put braided lines on, service the forks and brakes.

Whether I do it or not is dependant on whether or not I'm able to borrow a bike for the duration of the rebuild though Smile Still, I want to build a complete list of tools that I would need and should have to do such a task. That way I can start saving up for them now and start buying the piece by piece. Price is very important as I don't have a whole lot of cash; read about £20 a week if I don't go out at all.

So far my tool collection consists of:
- Halfords 235 piece Dynamic Tool Chest
- Hammer
- B&Q Mole Grips (which are rubbish)
- Multimeter
- Torque Wrench (not sure of the range... probably starts at 25nm)
- Adjustable Spanner
- Cheap Soldering Iron + Solder Remover + Solder

The things I know that I'll be needing:
- Feeler Gauge
- Spark Plug Gap Tool
- Compression Tester
- Cam Chain Riveter Tool
- C Spanners
- Homemade carb syncing tool
- Impact Driver
- Lower Range Torque Wrench
- Rubber mallet
- Better Mole Grips & Vice Grips
- Heat Shrink
- Assortion of electrical connectors
- Something suitable to hold the clutch & flywheel
- Valve Shim Tool
- Valve Spring Compressor

What are the other tools that I'll be neededing for such a job and what sort of prices should I be expecting to pay?

I have downloaded a 4 part video of somebody doing a top-end rebuild on the exact model of engine that I have and have the Haynes manual too to help me along, but neither really detail what I need to buy in detail.

Any suggestions would be nice and I'll edit them in to this post and build myself a list and purchase tools as and when I can afford them. Smile

Thanks Smile
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Last edited by J.M. on 17:21 - 15 Nov 2012; edited 3 times in total
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mrdelmonti
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Re: A list of tools to save for Reply with quote

Don't need a plug gap tool, just use the feeler gauges.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 15:04 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok thanks Smile
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Joncrete Cungle
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the bike the 04 GS500F in your signature? I have found in the past certain bikes have needed certain specialist tools or sizes of tool to get a part in our out. Someone with a bit more familiarity with the particular bike might be able to assist you on that one.
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If this is a TOTAL engine strip you don't really need a cam chain rivetter, OE come in a continuous loop and you just loop it over the crank. You need a smaller range torque wrench as well if it is a full strip.
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Aff
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Impact driver, probably one of my most used tools. Laughing

Get a decent pair of mole grips and vice grips too, always come in useful.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 16:14 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Re: A list of tools to save for Reply with quote

mrdelmonti wrote:
Don't need a plug gap tool, just use the feeler gauges.


DO use a plug gapper (if you have one). It should have a cut out for bending the sidewire. The other way people gap plug is by levering on the centre electrode which 'can' introduce cracks in the insulation. That is why plug makers recomend plug gapping tools.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 16:33 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joncrete Cungle wrote:
Is the bike the 04 GS500F in your signature? I have found in the past certain bikes have needed certain specialist tools or sizes of tool to get a part in our out. Someone with a bit more familiarity with the particular bike might be able to assist you on that one.


Yep, that's the one.

Bezzer wrote:
If this is a TOTAL engine strip you don't really need a cam chain rivetter, OE come in a continuous loop and you just loop it over the crank. You need a smaller range torque wrench as well if it is a full strip.


As far as I dare go down it is. Even if I can't actually do anything it would still be interesting to look in to the depths of the engine.

Ah yes I knew of a smaller range torque wrench, why I forgot to write that I have no idea

Question for everyone
Does anyone have any experience with the digital torque wrench adaptors (like this, just a lower range)?
If so: Good investment or avoid?
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 16:42 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I would add screw drivers and allen keys to that list depending on what is in the Halfords kit you already have.

As to a digital torque wrench, my feeling is that it will just give you a precise read out, without necessarily being accurate (plus probably easily damaged). Would be better to spend the extra money for the digital read out on something of a higher quality.

All the best

Keith
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orac
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

i use one of these to remove the fly wheel

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht248-13-pce-harmonic-balance-puller?da=1&TC=SRC-balance+puller

however if it the GS, you may need to find a correct puller or look to see if this will work (same as i use for removing my starter clutch)
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/laser-1914-gear-puller-4-23-leg-reversible?da=1&TC=SRC-gear+puller

the motor isnt in the bike you will also need to find a way to hold the crank (specialy if you dont have an impact wrench).

clutch centre holder (will be needed to correctly torque)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Tools-VS1812-Motorcycle-Clutch-Flywheel-Pulley-Holder-Universal-Motorbike-/140666811895?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item20c06535f7

this may come in handy for holding your flywheel too
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLYWHEEL-CLUTCH-PULLEY-HOLDER-SEALEY-VS1811-MOTORCYCLE-/190389398573?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2c5417ac2d

also you are going to need various micrometers and, and maybe a plastiguage to check things like crank shaft wear. also depending on how far you want to go, you may well need a set of v-block, dial gauge and stand to check for crank straitness.

oh an nearly forgot you will need to check the conrod eyes and bores for where too, so you will need to either go to a shop to have them checked, or buy the correct tool (which the name eludes me at this time)

oh a set of vernier caliper are extremeley hand too. along with a good work bench fitting to a decent vice.

do you have valve spring compressor, lapper, seat cutters and maybe a reamer dpending on wear??

rebulding a motor correctly isnt that simple, most dont bother as the cost of the tools isnt worth it for just 1 job - so maybe you can borrow some
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janner_10
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PostPosted: 16:54 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

May not be massively relevant for your current job but being more electrically minded I would add a small selection of through / bullet crimps and various spade / ring connectors male and female for some wiring repairs.

Plus soldering iron and small heat shrink kit.

Nothing worse than trying to trace an intermittent wiring fault and finding some berk has done little more than twist 2 cables together and bunged on some tape.
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 16:56 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just looking to do as much as a can whilst spending only a reasonable amount on tools. I see tools as a worthwhile investment because I've got an entire lifetime for them to prove their value to me in terms of less trips to the mechanics Smile

But obviously what I can actually afford on a student budget is a big issue.

I know that I need to go as shallow as checking the valve clearances, anything else that I can do at the same time without costing a fortune is a big bonus Smile

The video that I watched went a little deeper than the valve clearances and replaced something else too but I can't think exactly what, I'll have to rewatch the video. They also used this big "G clamp" for some sort of spring compression I think?
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 17:02 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

J.M. wrote:
They also used this big "G clamp" for some sort of spring compression I think?


Valve spring compressor. Halfords will flog you one!

However there are a few different designs which depending on the design of the head of the bike may or may not work. Might be worth seeing if someone local can lend you one

All the best

Keith
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 17:19 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

janner_10 wrote:
Nothing worse than trying to trace an intermittent wiring fault and finding some berk has done little more than twist 2 cables together and bunged on some tape.


Embarassed

===================

Have attached pictures of the valve compressor tool and a shim remover tool that she uses.

How to identify what they exactly are so that I can add them to my list or are they not really needed?

As for borrowing tools... I only know a handful of people that are local to me that ride, I know even less with tools! Smile
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 17:24 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The shim tool looks like it compresses the bucket so you can slide the shim out. Seen them advertised before for not much though.

As to the valve spring compressor, that's a bit one! General shape should be OK. I will dig out mine once I get home and take a piccy.

All the best

Keith
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 17:34 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It does look exceptionally big for what they're using it for!
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orac
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

the legs would have to hook in behind the starter clutch(mean it doesnt get close to the magnets). the way the GS5 is setup means its using a gear puller or spend the £££ on the genuine article.

the GS has a slightly different setup on the fly wheel compared to alot of suzukis. the coild for the elternator bolt to the outer casing (easy for changing the alternator as you dont have to remove the fly wheel), but makes fly wheel removal tricky at best
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haroman666
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PostPosted: 19:15 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're doing the piston rings, maybe consider Circlip pliers?

You can survive without but £9 for a pair...
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swampy
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd go for a decent quality 1/2" knuckle bar too, useful if you don't have some scaffold pole lying about...
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orac
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PostPosted: 22:33 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

the GS fly wheel goes on the other way up with the magnets facing out, the starter clutch and idle reduction gear (i think tha what they call it) goes underneath. the idea is not to hook onto the fly wheel but the onto that gear.

i will try and find a picture tmrw. as for that first pick, most fly wheels have three threaded whole which is where you screw the bolt in to use the balancer puller - this is not an option with th gs5 as it does not have those threaded whole iirc

should give you an idea
https://www.suncoastcyclesports.com/servlet/the-141585/03-06-Kawasaki-Z1000/Detail
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took this pic whilst changing my stator if it helps decide what I need for the flywheel?

Dremel isn't a bad idea although I might be able to borrow one of those.
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