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Thundercat Pulling Away Issues - Clutch?

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MAR5H7
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Joined: 23 Jan 2012
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 11 Dec 2012    Post subject: Thundercat Pulling Away Issues - Clutch? Reply with quote

Ok, Bike has been fine until past few weeks I started noticing something, when ever pulling away from a stand still, there is a horrible grinding noise from below, bottom of the engine and it judders horribly, then when it gets going, the grinding stops and runs like she should, beautifully

Its only at stand stills

Starting her up, shes fine, idles fine, everything is fine, just pulling away, thats why im thinking clutch

Shes at 42k miles, not sure when the plates have been changed (if at all) any help will be highly appreciated

Thanks for hearing me out
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 11 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you got a rear hugger on the back. It may have worked lose and is resting on the tyre when you pull away.
Or the exhaust pipes are touching the fairing.

Or something.
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MAR5H7
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PostPosted: 16:36 - 11 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
Have you got a rear hugger on the back. It may have worked lose and is resting on the tyre when you pull away.
Or the exhaust pipes are touching the fairing.

Or something.


I do have a rear hugger on the back
But would its sitting away from the tyre and isnt catching anywhere

Would exhaust pipes on fairing really cause the odd rumble from the engine? O.o
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 16:57 - 11 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I take it your sprockets are ok.

Check that all the engine mount bolts are tight.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 17:05 - 11 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

MAR5H7 wrote:
Walloper wrote:
Have you got a rear hugger on the back. It may have worked lose and is resting on the tyre when you pull away.
Or the exhaust pipes are touching the fairing.

Or something.


I do have a rear hugger on the back
But would its sitting away from the tyre and isnt catching anywhere

Would exhaust pipes on fairing really cause the odd rumble from the engine? O.o


I don't know I don't have the problem.

Very Happy
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MAR5H7
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PostPosted: 17:06 - 11 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy Blake wrote:
I take it your sprockets are ok.

Check that all the engine mount bolts are tight.


Sprockets have a fair amount of life in them, though am replacing them in the new year

Will check them too
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Owned: SRAD 600 97'
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dangerousdave
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 11 Dec 2012    Post subject: Re: Thundercat Pulling Away Issues - Clutch? Reply with quote

MAR5H7 wrote:
Ok, Bike has been fine until past few weeks I started noticing something, when ever pulling away from a stand still, there is a horrible grinding noise from below, bottom of the engine and it judders horribly, then when it gets going, the grinding stops and runs like she should, beautifully

Shes at 42k miles, not sure when the plates have been changed (if at all) any help will be highly appreciated



Had a simular problem with the Thunderace, clutch groans when pulling away, especially when pulling away quickly.

Turned out the oil I was using was slightly too thin, went back to the correct weight of gearbox oil and sounded much better.
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dangerousdave
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PostPosted: 18:01 - 11 Dec 2012    Post subject: Re: Thundercat Pulling Away Issues - Clutch? Reply with quote


____________________
1988 Kawasaki KMX 200

Previous: Yamaha YZF1000, ZZR600, KMX200, DT50, KX80, CG125, PF50


Last edited by dangerousdave on 18:03 - 11 Dec 2012; edited 1 time in total
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dangerousdave
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PostPosted: 18:03 - 11 Dec 2012    Post subject: Re: Thundercat Pulling Away Issues - Clutch? Reply with quote


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1988 Kawasaki KMX 200

Previous: Yamaha YZF1000, ZZR600, KMX200, DT50, KX80, CG125, PF50
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MAR5H7
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PostPosted: 18:09 - 11 Dec 2012    Post subject: Re: Thundercat Pulling Away Issues - Clutch? Reply with quote

dangerousdave wrote:


Had a simular problem with the Thunderace, clutch groans when pulling away, especially when pulling away quickly.

Turned out the oil I was using was slightly too thin, went back to the correct weight of gearbox oil and sounded much better.


Im running Silkolene Semi Synthetic, is that not the right for thundercat's?

And which oil did you change to? ill give it a whirl!
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weasley
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PostPosted: 18:56 - 11 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds about right oil, assuming 10W-40 or similar.

My clutch 'grabs' with a brief groan if I do a high rev launch and let the clutch out aggressively, so I don't do it. I've ridden it all over the place, including a track day and it never shows up in normal riding. I keep meaning to put a new clutch in it to see if this helps, but 10 years later I still haven't got around to it. Mine's on about 25-ish thousand miles but is 15 years old now.
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dangerousdave
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PostPosted: 19:29 - 11 Dec 2012    Post subject: Re: Thundercat Pulling Away Issues - Clutch? Reply with quote

MAR5H7 wrote:
dangerousdave wrote:


Had a simular problem with the Thunderace, clutch groans when pulling away, especially when pulling away quickly.

Turned out the oil I was using was slightly too thin, went back to the correct weight of gearbox oil and sounded much better.


Im running Silkolene Semi Synthetic, is that not the right for thundercat's?

And which oil did you change to? ill give it a whirl!


I used this last time:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTUL-5000-OIL-FILTER-YZF1000-THUNDERACE-1996-2002-/280705467455?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item415b59843f

Quietened the clutch down a lot when pulling away. I was using a thinner oil before, which made the clutch really noisy. Would make nasty groaning and scraping noises when pulling off the lights in a hurry.

I understand as oil ages in the gearbox also it loses its lubricating properties as it becomes diluted with any combustion by-products. I've changed my oil at least every 12 months, and after each change the engine & clutch sounds much better. When doing high milages I've done changes every 6 months, sometimes down to 3 months between changes. Its good insurance for the engine IMO.
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steady eddie
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 13 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have a look on https://www.bikersoracle.com/thunder/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=27&order=desc&page=4

there's a wealth of info on there Wink

I'm sure it's something to do with the grooves on the clutch basket wearing and not releasing the plates properly, mine used to judder / kangaroo / bog down if you tried to pull away with too many revs
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P.
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 13 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

steady eddie wrote:
I'm sure it's something to do with the grooves on the clutch basket wearing and not releasing the plates properly, mine used to judder / kangaroo / bog down if you tried to pull away with too many revs


Mine did also, was on 41k. Only started after I used it as a wheelie teaching machine and doing high rpm launches Laughing
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MAR5H7
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Joined: 23 Jan 2012
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PostPosted: 02:46 - 20 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

steady eddie wrote:
Have a look on https://www.bikersoracle.com/thunder/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=27&order=desc&page=4

there's a wealth of info on there Wink

I'm sure it's something to do with the grooves on the clutch basket wearing and not releasing the plates properly, mine used to judder / kangaroo / bog down if you tried to pull away with too many revs


Cheers for the link!! been looking for one for ages

##Paddy## wrote:


Mine did also, was on 41k. Only started after I used it as a wheelie teaching machine and doing high rpm launches Laughing


Oh dear Paddy, can't say I'm surprised with the stories I've been told Razz

But I haven't ragged her about

I've been experimenting with the clutch and I'm 99% its the plate's after talking to an experienced rider as well

When I pull away normally - around 2k-2.5k Rev's, it grinds (UNLESS!!!) I apply the clutch EXTREMELY GENTLY to get the bike rolling then it doesn't)

When I rag it away - around 4k rev's, it doesn't make the noise at all

That was a couple of experiments that come to that conclusion so I'm doing the first option as much as possible, honest truth as I value the life of my bike!!!

But does that give any clearer indication to you motorbike mechanic experts?


In the new year I'm giving her a nice clean up

New:
Front Brake Pads
Spark Plugs
Oil (+ Filter)
Chain + Sprockets
Clutch Plates (and basket if needed)
Clutch Gasket
Carb Balancing
Caliper Seals

Servicing:
Front and Rear Calipers


How much on average is a valve clearance as well? As I believe I remember hearing a bike should have them at approximately 40k miles and mines now on 42k so it is due??

Thanks!
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Owned: SRAD 600 97'
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weasley
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PostPosted: 12:16 - 20 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

The valve clearance check is at 42,000 kilometres, that's 28,000 miles - it should have had at least one check by now. Many people I know with Thundercats (and I know many people with them!) have had them checked and never needed an adjustment. I had mine done last year and it needed 3 shims changing.

Your "to-do" list looks good, but be prepared for lots of swearing when it coming to bleeding the brakes, as they tend to be a bit tricky to get the last air bubbles out (the link pipe across the calipers is often blamed for this). Make sure you have plenty of fluid available.
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MAR5H7
Nitrous Nuisance



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PostPosted: 12:51 - 20 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

weasley wrote:
The valve clearance check is at 42,000 kilometres, that's 28,000 miles - it should have had at least one check by now. Many people I know with Thundercats (and I know many people with them!) have had them checked and never needed an adjustment. I had mine done last year and it needed 3 shims changing.

Your "to-do" list looks good, but be prepared for lots of swearing when it coming to bleeding the brakes, as they tend to be a bit tricky to get the last air bubbles out (the link pipe across the calipers is often blamed for this). Make sure you have plenty of fluid available.


I purchased the bike off a guy who had her in mint condition and done loads of checks on it, literally rode it away without an issue and that was at 32k miles so it might be worth getting done
Unfortunately she didn't come with much available history so I don't know what works been taken out in the past :/


Thanks! Want her running mighty fine next year and you get out what you put in so (Y)

Cheers for the tip, will be extremely useful!
Bleeding brakes is a right sod!!!!
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Owned: SRAD 600 97'
Current: YZF Thundercat 600 96'
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steady eddie
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 20 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
be prepared for lots of swearing when it coming to bleeding the brakes, as they tend to be a bit tricky to get the last air bubbles out (the link pipe across the calipers is often blamed for this).


I fitted one of these to the master cylinder on mine, made bleeding them a lot easier https://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/310444579358?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&adtype=pla&crdt=0

Quote:
the link pipe across the calipers is often blamed for this

Quote:
Caliper Seals & Servicing Front and Rear Calipers


I spent a fortune on new seals for the front calipers and could never get the brakes as good as new. In the end I bought some calipers off a Fazer thou (without that link pipe) for £25 each Wink

Edit; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2002-YAMAHA-FZS-600-FAZER-FRONT-BRAKE-CALIPERS-/300756447643?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item46067b319b
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Current bikes: 1997 Fireblade RRV & 1989 KMX200
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