What material for drifts

[orac]

I have got to do the front wheel bearing soon and cant find what I used as a drift (think I may have barrowed one) the last time I did some.

so what the best material for general purpose drift. I was thinking aluminium (10mm bar), but it doesn't matter about not damaging the old bearings and I cant think what else I would use such a drift for.

both seem to be around the same price on fleabay for 10mmx200mm
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Current rides - 2016 Triumph Street Triple Rx, 1994 Suzuki Bandit 400 VM, TGB 204 Classic 125cc
"with nothing left to lose, there is everything to gain. It's not the size of the dog in the fight, it's the size of the fight in the dog"

[Aff]

I use concrete rawlbolts and an extension bar. Hit them back in with a socket.
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Current Bikes:Honda 929RR Fireblade, Honda CD200 Benly (Project), Stomp Z2 140
Electric Bike Project

[orac]

so steel then. also the manual suggest using the old ones as a drift for knocking the new ones in - go suzuki
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Current rides - 2016 Triumph Street Triple Rx, 1994 Suzuki Bandit 400 VM, TGB 204 Classic 125cc
"with nothing left to lose, there is everything to gain. It's not the size of the dog in the fight, it's the size of the fight in the dog"

[c_dug]

Depends on the purpose, I've used brass in the past because it's nicely malleable and I only had a small lip to catch the drift on. The brass tended to bite more than the steel I tried before, which tended to skip off of the bearing.

In an ideal world you wouldn't use any sort of impact to get bearings into place, far better to use some threaded rod, chunky washers and a couple of nuts to press bearings in if possible. (by the go Suzuki I'm guessing you might already know this bit! ).
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I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[Stalk]

[url] https://www.toolstation.com/m/part.html?p=44554[/url]
For this price you can't go wrong. I have this set and they are OK, use a socket slightly smaller than the bearing to gently drive the new one in square.

[Taught2BCauti...]

I have a selection of home-made drifts for different jobs.

Offcuts of 15mm and 22mm copper tube.
Old inlet and exhaust valves with the heads cut off (make good centre-punches too).
Offcuts of brass and aluminium rods of various diameter.
Blocks of wood that have been cut out of 3" x 1" with a hole saw (for seals).
Old imperial sockets from an impact wrench set.
Masonry nails with the point ground off.
Offcuts of 'AllThread' threaded rod.
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Honda Varadero XL125(V8)
www.TheFutureIsHere.eu

[stinkwheel]

I use a steel punch/drift.

Brass works too but you'll have to dress the edge more frequently so it gets a grip.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Aff]

Or use a rawlbolt so you dont have to faff around with getting the drift on the 1 micron of visible edge of the bearing.
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Current Bikes:Honda 929RR Fireblade, Honda CD200 Benly (Project), Stomp Z2 140
Electric Bike Project

[Pete.]

For bearings I use a steel drift, For a mild steel pin or whatever I'll use a bronze or copper drift. Occasionally for something that absolutely must not be marred I'll try aluminium.

if you use a softer drift on wheel bearings - or heaven forbid a screwdriver/chisel - you risk turning the edge then on the next strike burring the bearing seat.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Blue_SV650S]

I just use extension bars from my socket set, probably not in the textbook for use or doing them any favours, but certainly does the trick!
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The purpose of life is to fight maturity.

[orac]