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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 24 Dec 2012    Post subject: CG Bogger Reply with quote

Hi Hi

Me again Dance!
Trying to get this random CG going nice while I sort my YBR out

It's been sat for a year and the battery is dead, no problem as it's a CG you can take the battery out and it'll be fine, my housemates is equally dead and his is running nice and smooth

I can start it and get it idling just about after some fingering of the choke (which i'm very much not used to, touchy things)
Once it's warmed up I can give it throttle and it shits out a load of smoke, but otherwise a tiny amount of throttle kills the engine, depending on the choke, only seems to work on half choke

The problem is with any load on it giving it any throttle bogs it until it stalls, if you use a tiny bit you can just about keep going, I had it stop as I was testing it out and bump started it a few times, surprised how well bump starting works, nothing like my ybr!

I'm thinking the carb needs to come off and the pilot jet needs cleaning...but I don't know wtf that is Laughing

The guys had the rocker off at some point as it's got bright orange gasket seal crap around it, it sounds quite 'clicky' so i'm eager to do the clearances again on it, as long as the bolts don't snap and shit, already took the gear lever off to look at the front sprocket and snapped the bolt holding gear lever on.. I have discovered if bolts are brown and rusty they are a cunt to get off, if they are white, they're gonna snap!!

ACF50 grease is awesome by the way

Anyway, it's interesting to me as i've not had a carbed bike and I like attempting to fix stuffs

I've changed the spark, changed oil and checked fuses etc and played with idle times and choke, not done fuel mix yet though but not sure if that's the problem

Purely a carb issue?
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PostPosted: 14:33 - 24 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take the carb off, give it a good going over. Check all the jets are the right ones, check the needle valve is sealing OK and the float height is right.

Once you know that is all good then if the problem is still there then you can start looking at other things.

Get a working battery in there as well as that's one less unknown to worry about.
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 14:39 - 24 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe wrote:
Take the carb off, give it a good going over. Check all the jets are the right ones, check the needle valve is sealing OK and the float height is right.

Once you know that is all good then if the problem is still there then you can start looking at other things.

Get a working battery in there as well as that's one less unknown to worry about.

Roger that. Got a haynes at least so that should help

Do carbs have little bastarding fiddly bits? I am fairly ham handed when it comes to twiddly things Laughing

Dunno what the needle is or looks like, will look for pics
I'm hoping all will be clear once it's off...
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PostPosted: 14:52 - 24 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

They do have lots of fiddly bits but usually it's easy enough once they're off the bike.

Just have a clean workspace and somewhere to put the bits as you take them off - you don't want them getting lost.

Look at some videos on Youtube, it will give you an idea of what to expect. Get some carb cleaner too, a few quid from your local auto factors. To unblock the jets put them between your lips and blow.
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 24 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe wrote:
To unblock the jets put them between your lips and blow.

I bet that's what you tell all the ladies.
not that that makes any sense

Okay thanks, I will look it up on youtube for some guidance as I know what i'm like, i'll snap 3 bolts getting it off and lose the others down the drain

Gives me something to do this afternoon Thumbs Up
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monkeyman
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 24 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

jets are just small brass orifices/restrictors, the bike will will proberbly only have 2 fuel jets which are the pilot and the main. you will see them when you take the float bowl off.

in more advanced carbs you often get adjustable air jets, which are brass jets for restricting air flow into the fuel circuits.

your bike will have air jets but more than likely will be machined into the carb and will be none adjustable, so you need to check these are clear.

They will be small holes at the front of the carb, just below the carb intake.

All jets will have their sizes stamped into them, as mentioned before check they are the standard size.
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 24 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rob Fzs wrote:
see what it does when you take the cover off the airfilter and air filter out

What should/shouldn't it do?
I checked it out and span it round it seemed quite clean tbh

I'm guessing it's to do with the fuel/air mix and if the jets are clogged it'll pull more air through the filter...or something?
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paddlesat16
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 24 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'd also compression test it if its blowing smoke, could need a de-glaze and new rings etc. Then sort the carb.

Regards
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 15:48 - 24 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

paddlesat16 wrote:
i'd also compression test it if its blowing smoke, could need a de-glaze and new rings etc. Then sort the carb.

Regards

I think i'd do the carbs before new piston rings and shit Laughing
Compression seems fine if it's starting okay I would have thought? I figured the smoke was down to the fuelling or it was full of shit as it's been sat, the oil was particularly bad

Pardon me, my noob is showing

Forgot to mention the plug was coked up at first too
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kestrel
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PostPosted: 16:07 - 24 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alpha-9 wrote:


Forgot to mention the plug was coked up at first too


A black sooty plug is an indication that the engine is running rich, see Rob's post about the air filter.
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multijoy
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PostPosted: 17:23 - 24 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you sure you're switching the choke off? As that sounds like what mine used to do if you flicked it the wrong way!
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 24 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

multijoy wrote:
Are you sure you're switching the choke off? As that sounds like what mine used to do if you flicked it the wrong way!


Dunno, choke mindfucks me, must do because i've tried it at all the angles, only seems happy half open

down=open up=closed as far as I know
open and closed makes more sense than on and off to me, as choke on = air off so on = off which is just confusing

Here's a useless video of it in the dark https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-bpryexu11Y&feature=youtu.be

My house stinks now
genius.jpg
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multijoy
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PostPosted: 20:48 - 24 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thinking

Mine (a '98) was down for off (as in no choke action), middle for half, up for full.

This any use?
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Last edited by multijoy on 20:52 - 24 Dec 2012; edited 2 times in total
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 24 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

multijoy wrote:
Thinking

Mine (a '98) was down for off (as in no choke action), middle for half, up for full.


Yes, down=open (as in the choke is off and letting air into the engine) up=closed (as in the choke is on and choking the engine)

SEE IT'S CONFUSING.

according to the awardspace site it did change on a couple of years and was in reverse. Just to fuck with you.
lol, what you linked apparently

If I start it down fully it wont start easily, maybe letting too much air in from elsewhere Thinking but on middle it will start
Bear in mind it's been stood for a year

It's getting better but the starter also sounds dodgy
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crazymotorbik...
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 24 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey,
Here's a quick diagram of the carb i found on google:

Your carb may differ slightly (like mine did) but the layout is the same.

https://i49.tinypic.com/dg302q.jpg

Carefully unscrew the pilot jet and main jet. Next boil a pan of water and drop them in for 10 minutes. A rolling boil is best as they will be bounced about. You'll be quite surprised how much crap this loosens.
This will not damage the jets.

Remove them from the water and blow the jets through with compressed air. This will remove most of the water and any crap that's left. If you want them squeaky clean squirt some carb cleaner through and then blow through again with compressed air.

My CG125 is finally running lovely again. Starting even from cold is much easier with no hesitation when pulling away.

Hope this helps,
Shaun.
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 26 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isn't there a way to clean it without taking it off?
I'd rather not as I can see myself losing all the bits and not being able to put it back together again!

Did valve clearances today and took the air filter out and eyed it all up, seemed fine, put it back together better than it was
Valve clearances were way out and that seems to have sorted it's ticking

Took it round the industrial estate and still bogging though Thumbs Down
It reminds me of my YBR when the battery was dead and spark fucked, that low down struggling grunt
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J.M.
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PostPosted: 14:18 - 26 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alpha-9 wrote:
Yes, down=open (as in the choke is off and letting air into the engine) up=closed (as in the choke is on and choking the engine)


Thought it was the other way around. Open lets more air in to the carbs, closed lets the standard amount in to the carbs.

Quote:
Isn't there a way to clean it without taking it off?
I'd rather not as I can see myself losing all the bits and not being able to put it back together again!


Taking the carbs off is easy peasy. You just disconnect any pipes going to them. Take photos and maybe tape some numbered paper to the pipe to remember where things go.

After that you literally just losen the screw around the inlet rubbers and pull the carbs free.

I think you'll find cleaning them out of the engine easier Smile
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kestrel
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PostPosted: 14:32 - 26 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alpha-9 wrote:
Isn't there a way to clean it without taking it off?
I'd rather not as I can see myself losing all the bits and not being able to put it back together again


How difficult can it be? Cleaning a carb will always seem like a daunting task unless you actually get stuck in and do one.
Shaun has taken the time to post an exploded diagram of the carb and write an explanation of how to do the job.
The truth is that nobody on an internet forum really gives a toss whether your bike is running properly or not.
This leaves you with the option of either resolving the issue yourself, or paying someone to do it for you, the choice is yours!
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 26 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went out to eye it up and to play around with the fuel mix...annnd it's raining Thumbs Down

And yes JM that's what I said Question Laughing
Yeppers, will just man up and go for it then!
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kestrel
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 26 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alpha-9 wrote:

Yeppers, will just man up and go for it then!


Good man, whenever you do a job for the first time you gain a bit more knowledge, next time you do the same job you won't think twice about it.
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 14:52 - 26 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

kestrel wrote:
Alpha-9 wrote:

Yeppers, will just man up and go for it then!


Good man, whenever you do a job for the first time you gain a bit more knowledge, next time you do the same job you won't think twice about it.

Agreed, like trying to talk my friend out of taking his bike to a garage to have the chain and sprockets done, it's easy!

Now he's got some wrong sprockets fitted and practically has a 4 speed cg Laughing
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crazymotorbik...
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PostPosted: 19:09 - 26 Dec 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you get stuck I'll send you some more scans and instructions from *erhem* Google Very Happy

To be honest it really is easy. I had the carb off in minutes. Only thing i really needed to know was how to setup the accelerator pump. However even that's a piece of p*ss.

Cheers,
Shaun.
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